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#21 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
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What if you tried a 1/8th peice of delrin (pick up a rod and lathe it down) that fits perfectly and put a taper/dimple in that solve 2 problems
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#22 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Portland, Or
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I don't relly understand what you mean. Can you clarify a bit? Do you mean replace the ball with delrin???
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#23 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Denmark / Germany
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Delrin is to soft. ceramic could be a solution.
claus |
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#24 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Chicago IL.
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I think he means to use a Delrin thrust plate in the sleeve thus eliminating the metal on metal contact.
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#25 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: israel
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The problem of micro-welding in the metal-to-metal contact is succesfully solved since ceramic bearing was invented. Ceramic ball on the carbon steel/tungsten thrust plate may be a winner...
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#26 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
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What i meant was put a layer of delrin between the ball and one end. then put a taper or divit or hole in the delrin on the ball bearing side thus keeping the ball in the center of your bearing surface. no micro weld and the ball is kept center. i hope this makes sense i haven't gotton more than 5 hours of sleep all weekend. I play in the worlds largest trivia contest. 54 hours straight of trivia.
42 |
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#27 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Portland, Or
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42- I appreciate your suggestion- I understand it now. I think you may have misunderstood the problem though. The ball is fixed in the center of the top piece (press fit), and the uneven tightening of the three screws is what moves it off center. I don't think that your idea would force the ball on center.
I like the idea of the ceramic ball and carbide thrust plate. The ball is only a few bucks from McMaster-Carr, and I've got carbide milling inserts that will work. I think I can work out a good way to make sure the ball is easily centered. Today I finished the headshell plate. I made it out of titanium, .100" thick, and put several holes in it. It weighs about 3 grams. I made the counterweight out of machineable tungsten, as well as the bar that it slides on, so since it is heavier than lead, it looks too small to balance the arm. The Teres motor came a few days ago, and works wonderfully. However, with a mechanics stethoscope (wonderful thing) I can detect a little rubbing, and I have to track that down. Colby |
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#28 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Portland, Or
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Well, the project is nearly done. Pictures to follow, someday
![]() Yesterday I moved a 350 lb. microscope stand into the house, and didn't break through the floor (yet). Out went the 150 lb. vibraplane, and the funky (reinforced) tv stand that it sat on, and now things are starting to look and sound good. In the last few weeks, I have: Replaced the bearings twice Replaced the steel thrust ball with a ceramic one Replaced the nylatron thrust plate with a carbide one Replaced the clear PVC top layer with a thicker teflon piece and added 48 hold down screws Wired the arm with Cardas wires and their high end clips Polished the outside diameter of the platter with lapping paper progressing from 30 micron grit to 1 micron grit. I think that 9 micron paper is the equivalent of 1200 grit, to give you a reference. I'm starting now to make a 2" thick wood plinth that will sit on the massive base on 3 points. The motor will sit through a hole in the wood on the lower base, while the platter and arm will be mounted to the wood. Anyone need a vibraplane? I fear the shipping will be a bit spendy! |
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