I want to thank you guys for posting the service manual and all the tips. My SL-15 stopped moving its arm a couple of months ago and I thought for certain my favorite piece of audio gear had become a paperweight. After I did a search on the web, I found this thread and swapped out the 4 caps today and magically the tone arm moves again. Thank you everybody.
Hello all you fanatics of SL's! I am not a fanatic: very different. I inherited an SL 7 from my father and I find it incredible looking. For the moment i have switched it on, and pressed the start button. It started. The arm moved, went down to the record, but it sounds blocked, won't move left to read music. Can anyone who reads this thread give me a tip?
I have been through a lot of the replies but not all. Thanks for any help. Maybe the "needle" (that's what we call them in french!) is dead.
bruno
I have been through a lot of the replies but not all. Thanks for any help. Maybe the "needle" (that's what we call them in french!) is dead.
bruno
The SL-7 is very pretty and a delicate piece of technology.
The SL-7 is different from the SL-10 in term of PCB's.
Where the SL-10 has seperate PCB's in the lid for control and fingertouch buttons, the SL-7 has it all integrated on a mainboard, which makes it quite a bit harder to locate the caps to replace.
When the arm doesn't move, some caps are leaking and worn out. It's not the needle/stylus. It's the electronics that controls the movements of the arm.
I can't figure out which caps to replace on the SL-7.
I'm sorry.
My experiences relate to the SL-10.
The SL-7 is different from the SL-10 in term of PCB's.
Where the SL-10 has seperate PCB's in the lid for control and fingertouch buttons, the SL-7 has it all integrated on a mainboard, which makes it quite a bit harder to locate the caps to replace.
When the arm doesn't move, some caps are leaking and worn out. It's not the needle/stylus. It's the electronics that controls the movements of the arm.
I can't figure out which caps to replace on the SL-7.
I'm sorry.
My experiences relate to the SL-10.
I am having the same issue as eveyone else with the caps going bad on the tonearm...however, I can not seem to locate the exact size caps at any electronic stores.
Two of the three blue caps are 33uf 16v and the other blue cap is 4.7uf 25v....where do I find these or is there a similar cap that I can use to replace that wont damage the board??
Two of the three blue caps are 33uf 16v and the other blue cap is 4.7uf 25v....where do I find these or is there a similar cap that I can use to replace that wont damage the board??
Yes let's see.
I've got a PCB in my hand right now:
If you hold the PCB with the lamp pointing downwards and the big switch upwards, then....
1:...the cap [C404] at the left side, right next to the white slot [CN404] is a 470uf cap. Be sure to find one which has a low profile.
Otherwise the enitre PCB won't fit. Max. 12-13 mm.
Never mind the voltage, just be sure it's higher or equivalent rated.
Original is 6.3 Volt. I've got a 10 Volt here.
2:...a little up you find [C405] is 33uf. Also be sure to find small sized caps.
3:...a little up and to the right, you find [C408]. This is a 22uf.
4:..a little up and to the right, yu have [C401]. This is 100uf.
------
[edit]
5...there's a little hidden goodie under the black plastic cover.
This is [C412] a 1uf 50Volts.
Sometimes when you replace all the others and forget this, you could still experience problems.
Therefore all has to be replaced.
------
When replaced, your Technics SL-10 should work again.
It's an easy job, but if you're unsure, I'd be happy to do it for you.
Send me a PM and we'll arrange it.
I charge $15 or 10 Euro, including parts.
Please add shipping.
I also have new replacement belts for the arm/gear/motor assembly. $7.5 or 5 Euro.
They get stiff as time goes by.
You'll have to install that by yourself
unless you want to ship the turntable back and forth. It's up to you.
The entire mainboard which takes care of power and motor for the platter is filled with small caps that also leak badly.
For the time being no one have experienced problems, but they will.
I can replace those as well.
I think this kind of operation should be considered as an entire refurbishment, and to do that, you need to have the turntable send back and forth.
Fine with me. It's up to you.
I can also fit the SL-10 with sound damping material if you want to.
Thank you.
[edit mk2]
I would say it's almost impossible to try and get things done by connecting these caps in serial or parallel manner.
The main reason being that you don't have enough room.
The space is really tiny to begin with and you have to take all the arm/gear/motor mechanics into consideration.
Not enough room. I learned that the hard way
I've got a PCB in my hand right now:
If you hold the PCB with the lamp pointing downwards and the big switch upwards, then....
1:...the cap [C404] at the left side, right next to the white slot [CN404] is a 470uf cap. Be sure to find one which has a low profile.
Otherwise the enitre PCB won't fit. Max. 12-13 mm.
Never mind the voltage, just be sure it's higher or equivalent rated.
Original is 6.3 Volt. I've got a 10 Volt here.
2:...a little up you find [C405] is 33uf. Also be sure to find small sized caps.
3:...a little up and to the right, you find [C408]. This is a 22uf.
4:..a little up and to the right, yu have [C401]. This is 100uf.
------
[edit]
5...there's a little hidden goodie under the black plastic cover.
This is [C412] a 1uf 50Volts.
Sometimes when you replace all the others and forget this, you could still experience problems.
Therefore all has to be replaced.
------
When replaced, your Technics SL-10 should work again.
It's an easy job, but if you're unsure, I'd be happy to do it for you.
Send me a PM and we'll arrange it.
I charge $15 or 10 Euro, including parts.
Please add shipping.
I also have new replacement belts for the arm/gear/motor assembly. $7.5 or 5 Euro.
They get stiff as time goes by.
You'll have to install that by yourself
unless you want to ship the turntable back and forth. It's up to you.The entire mainboard which takes care of power and motor for the platter is filled with small caps that also leak badly.
For the time being no one have experienced problems, but they will.
I can replace those as well.
I think this kind of operation should be considered as an entire refurbishment, and to do that, you need to have the turntable send back and forth.
Fine with me. It's up to you.
I can also fit the SL-10 with sound damping material if you want to.
Thank you.
[edit mk2]
I would say it's almost impossible to try and get things done by connecting these caps in serial or parallel manner.
The main reason being that you don't have enough room.
The space is really tiny to begin with and you have to take all the arm/gear/motor mechanics into consideration.
Not enough room. I learned that the hard way
I have an SL-15...is the PCB board the same?? I appreciate the offer of shipping the unit back and forth. I am pretty familiar with this type of repair. I just wanted to make sure the voltage would not matter. I figured that out last night, the voltage is just stored power and should not affect the function of the unit. As I look at the first CAP that you mentioned I am now a bit confused...it has 4.7uf...and not 470uf, unless I am missing some other appreviation on it.
I did not see the one under the cover...so thank you for pointing that out. I think all the other ratings on the CAPS are the same that you mentioned...just the 4.7uf/470uf is the one I am confused on..meaning...is the SL-10 and 15 PCB boards the same? PCB board..referring to the main board for the tonearm...not the main power board under the platter.
I will seriously look into changing the CAPS under the platter also. However, as of right now I am selling the unit and the tonearm is the only issue that I am having. All other functions work on the unit except that (which is a big issue to have when trying to sell a turntable...that does not move!!).
If I run into any issues I will surely PM you since you seem to know more then myself about this unit (cause I know nothing).
I did not see the one under the cover...so thank you for pointing that out. I think all the other ratings on the CAPS are the same that you mentioned...just the 4.7uf/470uf is the one I am confused on..meaning...is the SL-10 and 15 PCB boards the same? PCB board..referring to the main board for the tonearm...not the main power board under the platter.
I will seriously look into changing the CAPS under the platter also. However, as of right now I am selling the unit and the tonearm is the only issue that I am having. All other functions work on the unit except that (which is a big issue to have when trying to sell a turntable...that does not move!!).
If I run into any issues I will surely PM you since you seem to know more then myself about this unit (cause I know nothing).
The PCB's on SL-10 and SL-15 are not the same.
I was referring to SL-10
On SL-15's PCB for armdrive mechanism you replace:
[C303] 25V 4.7uf
[C403 and C405] 16V 33uf
I can't find the 100uf or the 50V 1uf I mentioned from the SL10 on the SL-15.
But...I would also take a closer look at the Programming Logic Control PCB on the SL-15. In one line I would say, replace all electrolytic caps there also.
The PCB's interact with each other.
Same uf-value, higher or equivalent Voltage.
Be careful to ensure they are as small in physical size as the original ones.
Plugs [BT405] and [BT406] on the SL-15 seems to originate from the Programming Logic Control PCB. I'd see if they'd unplug from there instead.
I was referring to SL-10
On SL-15's PCB for armdrive mechanism you replace:
[C303] 25V 4.7uf
[C403 and C405] 16V 33uf
I can't find the 100uf or the 50V 1uf I mentioned from the SL10 on the SL-15.
But...I would also take a closer look at the Programming Logic Control PCB on the SL-15. In one line I would say, replace all electrolytic caps there also.
The PCB's interact with each other.
Same uf-value, higher or equivalent Voltage.
Be careful to ensure they are as small in physical size as the original ones.
Plugs [BT405] and [BT406] on the SL-15 seems to originate from the Programming Logic Control PCB. I'd see if they'd unplug from there instead.
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