I have a systemdek transcription table and as of recently it has been really playing with speed fluctuations. Their is enough to make it sound kind of sick. I changed the belt and as far as I can test the table is level and spins fine (bearing).
Do you think it is the motor
Power Supply (maybe new caps?)
and if it is the motor where can I get another?
Help is needed!
Do you think it is the motor
Power Supply (maybe new caps?)
and if it is the motor where can I get another?
Help is needed!
If the main bearing seems OK suggest that the first thing that you go for are the phasing capacitors (remember these should be the same value as present and that they have to take mains voltage - I take it that is 110v in Canada).
Replacement motors are available albeit different manufacturer as the original Airpax are no longer available (I think).
Replacement motors are available albeit different manufacturer as the original Airpax are no longer available (I think).
Did a full rebuild of the powersupply with new higher quality parts. It is a simple supply to build and similar to Linn or Rega as it is just a basic A sync motor. The problem I now have is that I am positive it is the motor that is going. I have not found much information on replacements and could use some advice on experiences of what company is good or better. I have come across many DC kits but talking to people I have heard mixed reviews. Some say it is more accurate in pitch stability but at the lack of some life. Either way most the kits are more expensive than I would like to do at the moment.
All I can do is suggest you go to www.rs-export.com and have a look at their part no 441-0423,this is essentially the same but may need a change in capacitor value.
If the pulley is plastic it should be easy to swap it to the new motor.
If the pulley is plastic it should be easy to swap it to the new motor.
On the offchance that it might work...
as you probably know most wow is caused by belt rather than motor... and as far as I can tell, those motors seem to go on for ever. If you haven't done it already, it'd be well worth your while first cleaning the belt really well, and then tossing it in some talc/chalk and refitting it, making sure it runs true and not against the pulley lips. Make sure that both pulley and platter are absolutely clean and oil/grease free where the belt will make contact.
I only say this cos I replaced the belt in mine, and after a few weeks I had a significant amount of wow... re-talced the belt and the wow dissappears. This cycle continues every month or so. Must get around to getting a new belt!
Also worth changing the oil in the main bearing and oiling the motor.
If you have replaced some of the circuitry it'd be a good idea to check the voltage going to each of the motor windings - should be anywhere from 85 to 110V.
Let us know how it works out.
Fran
as you probably know most wow is caused by belt rather than motor... and as far as I can tell, those motors seem to go on for ever. If you haven't done it already, it'd be well worth your while first cleaning the belt really well, and then tossing it in some talc/chalk and refitting it, making sure it runs true and not against the pulley lips. Make sure that both pulley and platter are absolutely clean and oil/grease free where the belt will make contact.
I only say this cos I replaced the belt in mine, and after a few weeks I had a significant amount of wow... re-talced the belt and the wow dissappears. This cycle continues every month or so. Must get around to getting a new belt!
Also worth changing the oil in the main bearing and oiling the motor.
If you have replaced some of the circuitry it'd be a good idea to check the voltage going to each of the motor windings - should be anywhere from 85 to 110V.
Let us know how it works out.
Fran
Wow in search I found this old thread.
Anyways for the old sysdek it was a matter of the belt being slightly off angle. It would bind against the edge of the pulley and cause the wow and flutter.
Point of me opening this again is to see if anyone has an original manual. I just won another one of these guys off ebay and will need to adjust the suspension. Not sure which arm I will use yet.
Phono stage I will also be open to on suggestions to run with my Linn K18.
BTW this one is speed stable
Anyways for the old sysdek it was a matter of the belt being slightly off angle. It would bind against the edge of the pulley and cause the wow and flutter.
Point of me opening this again is to see if anyone has an original manual. I just won another one of these guys off ebay and will need to adjust the suspension. Not sure which arm I will use yet.
Phono stage I will also be open to on suggestions to run with my Linn K18.
BTW this one is speed stable
Which model is it? I have a IIX from new. The manual is a card.
Step 5.3 Assess the adjustment necessary by placing a level side to side and front to back on the platter. Turn the adjusting screws until the exact leveling of the platter is attained with an approximate 5mm space between the top of the plinth and bottom outer rim of the platter. (The result will not only ensure optimum isolation conditions for the arm and cartridge but will also give the belt drive the correct operational tension).
Hope this helps.
Step 5.3 Assess the adjustment necessary by placing a level side to side and front to back on the platter. Turn the adjusting screws until the exact leveling of the platter is attained with an approximate 5mm space between the top of the plinth and bottom outer rim of the platter. (The result will not only ensure optimum isolation conditions for the arm and cartridge but will also give the belt drive the correct operational tension).
Hope this helps.
I have the Transcription deck, with full alloy platter.
Sounds like that is just for the leg adjustment but not the actual suspension?
Mine seems to have something that reduced its range. I only say this based on how my other one was setup. I will look a bit more this weekend to see, so far I been too busy this week to really check it out.
BTW what does anyone think of sticking a Clear Audio arm on this deck?
Sounds like that is just for the leg adjustment but not the actual suspension?
Mine seems to have something that reduced its range. I only say this based on how my other one was setup. I will look a bit more this weekend to see, so far I been too busy this week to really check it out.
BTW what does anyone think of sticking a Clear Audio arm on this deck?
Hi
The IIX manual refers to the hex-head adjustment screws on the top plate (there's no adjustment in the plinth feet).
The original Transcription unit does have foot adjustment for plinth levelling, but the suspension adjusters are under the plinth. It should be possible to turn them by hand.
The adjustment procedure quoted above is correct for both types, however. There's a manual for the Systemdek III (developed from the original deck) and the II on Vinyl Engine. I used to own a II, and followed this procedure when adjusting the deck's suspension (after levelling the plinth).
HTH
Mark
The IIX manual refers to the hex-head adjustment screws on the top plate (there's no adjustment in the plinth feet).
The original Transcription unit does have foot adjustment for plinth levelling, but the suspension adjusters are under the plinth. It should be possible to turn them by hand.
The adjustment procedure quoted above is correct for both types, however. There's a manual for the Systemdek III (developed from the original deck) and the II on Vinyl Engine. I used to own a II, and followed this procedure when adjusting the deck's suspension (after levelling the plinth).
HTH
Mark
Hey Mark,
I am aware of the screws under the Plinth/platter for adjustment, and had did it before on my other model. Problem is I forget some little things over 4 years of not having it.
I seem to recall having mine being able to float with a lot more range and looking through this one I can't see anything that should be restricting this. Of course I can loosen up the suspension with just a Phillips type screw driver for the suspension. The legs balance totally on their own and just a basic 3 point balance system.
Also I emailed the seller to see if he placed something in the suspension for transport but at the moment I have heard nothing. Either way still a few steps before its all up and running correctly.
I am aware of the screws under the Plinth/platter for adjustment, and had did it before on my other model. Problem is I forget some little things over 4 years of not having it.
I seem to recall having mine being able to float with a lot more range and looking through this one I can't see anything that should be restricting this. Of course I can loosen up the suspension with just a Phillips type screw driver for the suspension. The legs balance totally on their own and just a basic 3 point balance system.
Also I emailed the seller to see if he placed something in the suspension for transport but at the moment I have heard nothing. Either way still a few steps before its all up and running correctly.
Make sure that your belt and motor spindle are free of any kind of oil from touching them with your hands.
Also make sure your belt tension has not been reduced by stretching due to age.
These become more of an issue with heavy platters some use.
Many moons ago an Ariston I had did this and cleaning and tightning the belt cured the speed variations
Regards
David
Also make sure your belt tension has not been reduced by stretching due to age.
These become more of an issue with heavy platters some use.
Many moons ago an Ariston I had did this and cleaning and tightning the belt cured the speed variations
Regards
David
Also consider removing the foam "dampers" inside the coil springs.
These can rot and pieces can stick within the coils of the springs. If the springs are suspect I would suggest either new springs, or a much less expensive alternative, such as suggested on user510's site ( search for the analog dept. on the Interweb).
These can rot and pieces can stick within the coils of the springs. If the springs are suspect I would suggest either new springs, or a much less expensive alternative, such as suggested on user510's site ( search for the analog dept. on the Interweb).
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