Thorens TD150 and Linn springs

Zombie · 13th July 2004, 02:25 PM

Hello!
Finally got brand new Linn springs to replace the tired original springs on my TD150 MkII.
The change is done, but there's no "bounce". The springs are to hard or the platter is too light. Lucky my turntable is fitted to the wall...
I thought the Linn springs were a direct replacement, although a bit stiffer, but mine are dead stiff...advice needed...

Cheers
Tom

docjoe · 14th July 2004, 10:49 AM

this is a known issue
wether you increase weight on the suspended part or get longer spring studs
see:
http://www.nakedresource.com/phpBB2/...pic.php?t=2534

Zombie · 14th July 2004, 07:37 PM

Great! Thanx!

Toaster · 16th July 2004, 09:11 AM

I don't think longer bolts will help, apart from preventing the floating bits from locking up completely. Check out The Analog Dept if you haven't already. There's some really good articles on Thorens turntables. The laminated TD150 subchassis detailed in the DIY section would be an excellent way of adding some mass and improving the sound. There's also a suggestion to eliminate the springs entirely and use sections of car heater hose instead, in the manner of the 'blobs' used in the Roksan Xerxes. The difference in platter mass between a TD150 or '160 and a Linn is about 1.5kg, and the Linn's subchassis probably weighs a little more too. On the linked article, most of the posters were using TD125s, which have a much larger, heavier subchassis than the Linn or the TD150, no doubt this allows the Linn springs to be used as a near direct replacement.
Have fun!

Zombie · 16th July 2004, 10:32 AM

Hello and thanks!
I have fiddled with the springs and grommets. I have noticed that the Linn grommets are in all 5mm's thicker, giving the springs less headroom.
When I use the Thorens grommets I get the bounce except with the spring at the motor side.
I now use a Linn top grommet and a Thorens bottom grommet and a Thorens spring there...the bounce is back.
It's possible to tap quite hard on the top and the sides of the plinth without any skipping...

Cheers,
Tom

13th July 2004, 02:25 PM	#1
Zombie diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: At home	Thorens TD150 and Linn springs Hello! Finally got brand new Linn springs to replace the tired original springs on my TD150 MkII. The change is done, but there's no "bounce". The springs are to hard or the platter is too light. Lucky my turntable is fitted to the wall... I thought the Linn springs were a direct replacement, although a bit stiffer, but mine are dead stiff...advice needed... Cheers Tom

14th July 2004, 10:49 AM	#2
docjoe diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Paris, France	this is a known issue wether you increase weight on the suspended part or get longer spring studs see: http://www.nakedresource.com/phpBB2/...pic.php?t=2534 __________________ docjoe.

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14th July 2004, 07:37 PM	#3
Zombie diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: At home	Great! Thanx!

16th July 2004, 09:11 AM	#4
Toaster diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: South East England	I don't think longer bolts will help, apart from preventing the floating bits from locking up completely. Check out The Analog Dept if you haven't already. There's some really good articles on Thorens turntables. The laminated TD150 subchassis detailed in the DIY section would be an excellent way of adding some mass and improving the sound. There's also a suggestion to eliminate the springs entirely and use sections of car heater hose instead, in the manner of the 'blobs' used in the Roksan Xerxes. The difference in platter mass between a TD150 or '160 and a Linn is about 1.5kg, and the Linn's subchassis probably weighs a little more too. On the linked article, most of the posters were using TD125s, which have a much larger, heavier subchassis than the Linn or the TD150, no doubt this allows the Linn springs to be used as a near direct replacement. Have fun!

16th July 2004, 10:32 AM	#5
Zombie diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: At home	Hello and thanks! I have fiddled with the springs and grommets. I have noticed that the Linn grommets are in all 5mm's thicker, giving the springs less headroom. When I use the Thorens grommets I get the bounce except with the spring at the motor side. I now use a Linn top grommet and a Thorens bottom grommet and a Thorens spring there...the bounce is back. It's possible to tap quite hard on the top and the sides of the plinth without any skipping... Cheers, Tom

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