Well, I got my AR-XA a while back, but it had no cartridge. Thanks to planet10, now I've a cartridge. I just got it today, went to a local shop and got some screws, and boom .. its running great! 
The turntable is in an immaculate condition on the outside. There's no noticeable rumble when it plays. Even the dustcover has VERY very few scratches on it. Great deal!
I still have to open it up when i get time and take a look inside, but i don't expect to find anything out of order. It looks like the turntable got very little use in general. The only thing I suspect needs replacement is the belt, although it doesn't look bad now.
I still need to do adjustments on the turntable, but already its much better than the crappy radioshack model i had before!
Thanks to planet10 for the cart, and others (analog_sa i thinks) for the advice offered.
Btw, I'll post pics when I get the camera, hopefully wednesday.
The turntable is in an immaculate condition on the outside. There's no noticeable rumble when it plays. Even the dustcover has VERY very few scratches on it. Great deal!
I still have to open it up when i get time and take a look inside, but i don't expect to find anything out of order. It looks like the turntable got very little use in general. The only thing I suspect needs replacement is the belt, although it doesn't look bad now.
I still need to do adjustments on the turntable, but already its much better than the crappy radioshack model i had before!
Thanks to planet10 for the cart, and others (analog_sa i thinks) for the advice offered.
Btw, I'll post pics when I get the camera, hopefully wednesday.
Excellent! I used ARs for years and years, wonderful tables, very simple, very reliable. When you decide to get more ambitious, a few minutes with a milling machine will allow you to upgrade the tonearm. In my application, the AR was surprisingly immune to vibration and shock- it helps to have it mounted on a non-sprung platform.
After many years of use of the AR in my system, upgrading to a big VPI table was NOT a night and day improvement!
After many years of use of the AR in my system, upgrading to a big VPI table was NOT a night and day improvement!
I have had a long association with the AR turntables. When the company announced its intention to offer the XA, I asked my local dealer in Nashville, TN to order me one. Months later, when the product finally hit the shelves, I received mine, which was serial number 00079.
It really was revolutionary at the time and served as a model for subsequent Linns and others. The weak point was always the tonearm, with its weird braking mechanism which was intended to save a delicate stylus from presumably fumble-fingered users dropping it onto the platter. Another thing to watch out for is the arm wiring which is very fragile and too exposed at the point going from the arm through a hole in the plinth. Re-wiring the arm is well-nigh impossible. Also, it would have been thoughtfull of the AR engineers to have made the headshell connection the regular SME standard type. Since they didn't, shells that are in decent shape now go for premium prices.
The table also benefits greatly from installing additional (no... that's not the right word; better to say any) vibration absorbing material to various areas. As is, the platter gongs away like Big Ben when you tap on it. the underside of the platter ring needs to be deadened while keeping the balance and the underside of the plinth needs help as well.
Fortunately, there is much information available on the net that can bring both the XA and XB up to snuff with very little investment. It is quite easy to eliminate the tonearm braking mechanism. The arm benefits greatly from other easy mods that eliminate its slop. I have a number of articles on this subject that I would be happy to make available if anyone is interested.
It really was revolutionary at the time and served as a model for subsequent Linns and others. The weak point was always the tonearm, with its weird braking mechanism which was intended to save a delicate stylus from presumably fumble-fingered users dropping it onto the platter. Another thing to watch out for is the arm wiring which is very fragile and too exposed at the point going from the arm through a hole in the plinth. Re-wiring the arm is well-nigh impossible. Also, it would have been thoughtfull of the AR engineers to have made the headshell connection the regular SME standard type. Since they didn't, shells that are in decent shape now go for premium prices.
The table also benefits greatly from installing additional (no... that's not the right word; better to say any) vibration absorbing material to various areas. As is, the platter gongs away like Big Ben when you tap on it. the underside of the platter ring needs to be deadened while keeping the balance and the underside of the plinth needs help as well.
Fortunately, there is much information available on the net that can bring both the XA and XB up to snuff with very little investment. It is quite easy to eliminate the tonearm braking mechanism. The arm benefits greatly from other easy mods that eliminate its slop. I have a number of articles on this subject that I would be happy to make available if anyone is interested.
Just as Bill says the AR tt is the origin of suspended subchassis designs, and maybe the best.
To my ears, a Linn, given the same arm, will never sound as good as an AR.
A few essential things to do before a major rebuild: remove the foam dampers inside suspension springs, remove and discard bottom of "cabinet", attach feet (only 3 pcs) to exposed edge of cabinet walls, one to each front corner, one in middle of back wall. Fill inner platter with polyuretane pottingcompound.
To my ears, a Linn, given the same arm, will never sound as good as an AR.
A few essential things to do before a major rebuild: remove the foam dampers inside suspension springs, remove and discard bottom of "cabinet", attach feet (only 3 pcs) to exposed edge of cabinet walls, one to each front corner, one in middle of back wall. Fill inner platter with polyuretane pottingcompound.
A couple of problems with the ARxa's minimalist design is that the arm didn't come with anti-skating or a cuing lever (there is a mod avaiable for the former; the latter was remedied with the xb model). But you can easily find after market cuing devices that you can install so that you don't have to depend on your dexterity of the moment. There are also simple mechanical devices that will automatically lift the arm at the end of record play.
Everyone ruins styluses eventually. I have a small drawer full. Its part of joining the club.
Everyone ruins styluses eventually. I have a small drawer full. Its part of joining the club.
billinchile wrote:
Sorry to dredge up an old thread, but I can't always keep up with the posting volume here...
I have recently acquired an XA in very nice, original condition. My brother bought it with the intentions of upgrading, and gave it to me before doing any mods.
I know him, see, and he couldn't bring himself to modify such a neat, original TT. So, he let's me do the dirty work to avoid the guilt.
I'm a knave with turntables, although I do have a reasonable amount of audio experience. This will be a learning experience, taken slowly, and seriously. Hopefully when done, I will have learned enough to begin designing my own TT in the spirit of DIY.
Bill, I would be very interested in any related articles. If they aren't postable or linkable here, my email address is:
tsmith1315@bellsouth.net, or
tsmith1315@aol.com
Also, the motor is slow to start. I feel like I should to give the platter a little spin to get it going. Is this normal, or a motor failure?
Once going, there is an overwhelming hum with very little audible signal. Is this likely to be related to the motor issue, or cartridge/wiring?
TIA!
Tim
Sorry to dredge up an old thread, but I can't always keep up with the posting volume here...
I have recently acquired an XA in very nice, original condition. My brother bought it with the intentions of upgrading, and gave it to me before doing any mods.
I know him, see, and he couldn't bring himself to modify such a neat, original TT. So, he let's me do the dirty work to avoid the guilt.
I'm a knave with turntables, although I do have a reasonable amount of audio experience. This will be a learning experience, taken slowly, and seriously. Hopefully when done, I will have learned enough to begin designing my own TT in the spirit of DIY.
Bill, I would be very interested in any related articles. If they aren't postable or linkable here, my email address is:
tsmith1315@bellsouth.net, or
tsmith1315@aol.com
Also, the motor is slow to start. I feel like I should to give the platter a little spin to get it going. Is this normal, or a motor failure?
Once going, there is an overwhelming hum with very little audible signal. Is this likely to be related to the motor issue, or cartridge/wiring?
TIA!
Tim
My $0.02 from my experience with Thorens TD150:
1. Get rid of the tonearm for smth better
2. FIll the box with bitumen - but NOT on the suspended parts - those can be treated with thin cork if needed
3. Heard that the suspension springs are too "wobbly" - try filling them with cotton - or change for stiffer, also check the grommets
4. Remove the bottom plate or put bitumen on it
5. Mount the turntable to the wall instead of having it on a table
6. Check if you can lower the voltage to the motor, making it less noisy
Cheers
1. Get rid of the tonearm for smth better
2. FIll the box with bitumen - but NOT on the suspended parts - those can be treated with thin cork if needed
3. Heard that the suspension springs are too "wobbly" - try filling them with cotton - or change for stiffer, also check the grommets
4. Remove the bottom plate or put bitumen on it
5. Mount the turntable to the wall instead of having it on a table
6. Check if you can lower the voltage to the motor, making it less noisy
Cheers
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