Hey Guys
Here are some of my thoughts.
1. The teres/red point bearings have a flange that the platter rests on. The hole in the platter is not as important as the flange is parallel with the platter. If the hole is to tight getting the platter on and off is a pain. The spindle can come out with the platter.
2. The platters are not complicated it is 90 degrees and parallel. So most machine shops if they can hold a 12 inch chuck of aluminum are good to go. The procedure I use is machine top of platter 1st. Then turn it around mount the top to a lathe face plate. Then line up center mark. Now you can drill/bore/ machine bottom flat and cut the circumference. If you do all this without moving the piece your 90 degrees and parallels should be as dead on as the machine can make it.
3. The aluminum on a lathe come out beautiful without polishing. In doors it keeps it shine for years.
4. I made some longer spindles for the bearings so I could play with 1/4 and 1/2 mats. Liking the 1/2 PVC lead PVC sandwich mat alot.
Enjoy the ride
Tom
Here are some of my thoughts.
1. The teres/red point bearings have a flange that the platter rests on. The hole in the platter is not as important as the flange is parallel with the platter. If the hole is to tight getting the platter on and off is a pain. The spindle can come out with the platter.
2. The platters are not complicated it is 90 degrees and parallel. So most machine shops if they can hold a 12 inch chuck of aluminum are good to go. The procedure I use is machine top of platter 1st. Then turn it around mount the top to a lathe face plate. Then line up center mark. Now you can drill/bore/ machine bottom flat and cut the circumference. If you do all this without moving the piece your 90 degrees and parallels should be as dead on as the machine can make it.
3. The aluminum on a lathe come out beautiful without polishing. In doors it keeps it shine for years.
4. I made some longer spindles for the bearings so I could play with 1/4 and 1/2 mats. Liking the 1/2 PVC lead PVC sandwich mat alot.
Enjoy the ride
Tom
You might want to look at hard anodizing the platter it is a more durable finish and you may not run into the issue I have with wear marks on the platter.
With that being said hard anodizing is thicker than the standard anodizing so you will have to be careful with the size of the finish bore in the platter. Lets say that the anodizing is 0.001" thick, 0.0005" of that is chemically etched into the bore the other 0.0005" the buildup. So if spindle diameter is 1.0000" the bore in the platter would need to be 1.001" to make up for the thickness of the anodizing. Also keep in mind the anodizer doesn't have an "absolute" control of the thickness.
As Tom said the finish from the lathe will be very good, I did a super light polish on my platter just to get some of the shine off of it. The plinth of my table I took to 180 grit emery paper to give more of a matte finish. I can post a couple pictures if you like.
Anodizing really won't hide any surface imperfections as say multiple coats of paint would.
Seth are you planning on using any type of mat or another type of material to cover the plugs?
Scott
With that being said hard anodizing is thicker than the standard anodizing so you will have to be careful with the size of the finish bore in the platter. Lets say that the anodizing is 0.001" thick, 0.0005" of that is chemically etched into the bore the other 0.0005" the buildup. So if spindle diameter is 1.0000" the bore in the platter would need to be 1.001" to make up for the thickness of the anodizing. Also keep in mind the anodizer doesn't have an "absolute" control of the thickness.
As Tom said the finish from the lathe will be very good, I did a super light polish on my platter just to get some of the shine off of it. The plinth of my table I took to 180 grit emery paper to give more of a matte finish. I can post a couple pictures if you like.
Anodizing really won't hide any surface imperfections as say multiple coats of paint would.
Seth are you planning on using any type of mat or another type of material to cover the plugs?
Scott
The holes will be bored from the bottom. I would very much like to be able to mount a copper or lead/PVC mat. But don’t want to spook the machinist with too many hypotheticals at this time.
I hear what you are saying about anodizing. A group buy of aluminum pulleys went off the rails partly due to imbalance caused by the coating they selected. An entire batch had to be returned and scrapped. Couldn’t the bearing hole be plugged and not anodized?
I hear what you are saying about anodizing. A group buy of aluminum pulleys went off the rails partly due to imbalance caused by the coating they selected. An entire batch had to be returned and scrapped. Couldn’t the bearing hole be plugged and not anodized?
Hello,
Why not use something that looks similar to a hardwood? dowel. Or like checkers? If they are machining the alumium it is not to difficult to cut a larger circle that can hold a piece of wood. If you give them such a piece of wood they can do a test to find out the right hole diameter to give you an airtight fit so you will need no glue. Removing can be done by drlling a large hole into the wood so it loose its strength.
Greetings, Eduard
Why not use something that looks similar to a hardwood? dowel. Or like checkers? If they are machining the alumium it is not to difficult to cut a larger circle that can hold a piece of wood. If you give them such a piece of wood they can do a test to find out the right hole diameter to give you an airtight fit so you will need no glue. Removing can be done by drlling a large hole into the wood so it loose its strength.
Greetings, Eduard
Seth,
I just did a Google search, it looks like areas can be masked off to avoid anodizing.
Anodizing FAQs | Anodizing Graphics of Texas
Let me put some thought into a easy/ economical way to plug the holes.
With the holes on the bottom the plugs really need to be secure.
Scott
I just did a Google search, it looks like areas can be masked off to avoid anodizing.
Anodizing FAQs | Anodizing Graphics of Texas
Let me put some thought into a easy/ economical way to plug the holes.
With the holes on the bottom the plugs really need to be secure.
Scott
I have decided to commit to the order. The shot hole arrangement will be 12 2 inch holes on a 4.6225 radius. This puts the outer edge of the hole a half in from the perimeter.
The only coating facility near the machine shop doesn’t do anodizing, so that will have to be done locally here in Tampa (if at all).
The machinist tells me that his last pass finish will be followed by hand polishing at no extra cost.
He is going to provide caps/plugs for the shot holes with an easy fit to allow Locktite sealant. I like this better than press-fit which would be a pain to undo if that ever becomes necessary. Threading means custom threaded caps and that will certainly add more cost than i care to incur. Press fit might be even more work and money.
Material was ordered this morning.
The only coating facility near the machine shop doesn’t do anodizing, so that will have to be done locally here in Tampa (if at all).
The machinist tells me that his last pass finish will be followed by hand polishing at no extra cost.
He is going to provide caps/plugs for the shot holes with an easy fit to allow Locktite sealant. I like this better than press-fit which would be a pain to undo if that ever becomes necessary. Threading means custom threaded caps and that will certainly add more cost than i care to incur. Press fit might be even more work and money.
Material was ordered this morning.
Hey Seth just some thoughts. ( You may a already know this). Because you are using Oil the seal will have to be somewhat tight. The thicker the cover plate the better. Copper is also soft. I would make sure I had lots of brass counter sunk bolts around the holes, holding the plate down. I think Red point used Marvel oil which is close to water in viciously. That could leak thru some smalls gaps. Just some thoughts. Should sound great even if it leaked a little.
Tom
Tom
Tom -
I can use all the advise you care to share. I keep Marvel Mystery Oil in the shop for all kinds of applications, but didn’t think to use it for this. Was thinking of something way more viscous. No good reason why. So....Marvel. Was not going to bolt the soft copper, just epoxy. Bad idea? The platen is to be whatever .25 inch RM cleans up to.
I can use all the advise you care to share. I keep Marvel Mystery Oil in the shop for all kinds of applications, but didn’t think to use it for this. Was thinking of something way more viscous. No good reason why. So....Marvel. Was not going to bolt the soft copper, just epoxy. Bad idea? The platen is to be whatever .25 inch RM cleans up to.
The copper top plate
is being milled now. The machinist got me a terrific deal on the copper and also the machine work, so I’m relaxing about the timing. He is working my little project in between bigger better paying jobs. I’m grateful the work is being done. Should ship shortly. Sourcing tiny lead shot is turning into another issue. I’ll probably have to compromise there and take larger shot which will weigh less for a given volume.
is being milled now. The machinist got me a terrific deal on the copper and also the machine work, so I’m relaxing about the timing. He is working my little project in between bigger better paying jobs. I’m grateful the work is being done. Should ship shortly. Sourcing tiny lead shot is turning into another issue. I’ll probably have to compromise there and take larger shot which will weigh less for a given volume.Seth,
One option for lead shot is McMaster-Carr
My Dad lives in Lady Lake I'll check with him if he knows any place to get shot near you.
Scott
One option for lead shot is McMaster-Carr
My Dad lives in Lady Lake I'll check with him if he knows any place to get shot near you.
Scott
I actually have one that I did the 1 1/2 brass rod 2 inches long. I drilled a 6 mm hole and tapped them. Then you bolt them from the bottom. Now you could use all kinds of material and just bolt them in. One caution, if you use stainless you need to use a decent mat. I tried stainless inserts, with no mat, and the cartridge would jump when the platter was in motion. Stainless is more magnetic that you think.
I am a big fan of heavy platters what you use to get there is sometimes a voicing thing to your taste and system. I have a big chuck of delrin, will lead load the crap out of it. That should get the weight where I want it. Then I will listen.
Enjoy the ride
Tom
I am a big fan of heavy platters what you use to get there is sometimes a voicing thing to your taste and system. I have a big chuck of delrin, will lead load the crap out of it. That should get the weight where I want it. Then I will listen.
Enjoy the ride
Tom
Is it necessary to bolt them? My ideia was drilling the holes and then machine a brass rod at the exact same size and just put in there lol.
Delrin is excellent, however here in Brazil is kind of expensive. I was able to get a very good deal at a 12'' aluminum raw platter. Now I'm starting the design of the bearing and the best viable option to add weight.
Pic of the platter:
Dropbox - IMG_5210.HEIC
First idea of bearing:
Dropbox - Projeto Prato.pdf
I found this design which I enjoy
https://www.vinylengine.com/turntable_forum/download/file.php?id=4652&t=1
Delrin is excellent, however here in Brazil is kind of expensive. I was able to get a very good deal at a 12'' aluminum raw platter. Now I'm starting the design of the bearing and the best viable option to add weight.
Pic of the platter:
Dropbox - IMG_5210.HEIC
First idea of bearing:
Dropbox - Projeto Prato.pdf
I found this design which I enjoy
https://www.vinylengine.com/turntable_forum/download/file.php?id=4652&t=1
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