I'm litter bit confuse!!! I would like one of this tonearm for my DIY project. But I can't decided wich one is better.
Expressimo RB250 modified
http://www.expressimoaudio.com/tonearm/tonearm.html
or
Origine Live OL1 fully Modified
http://www.tonearm.co.uk/tonearm.htm
The both are the same price and both have good review.
Please help me!!!!
Expressimo RB250 modified
http://www.expressimoaudio.com/tonearm/tonearm.html
or
Origine Live OL1 fully Modified
http://www.tonearm.co.uk/tonearm.htm
The both are the same price and both have good review.
Please help me!!!!
In my DIY opinion :
Buy the standard RB250 arm.
(I'll note performance per dollar is far better than
any of the modded versions without exception.)
Rewire it yourself.
Glue a piece of steel thread into the plastic rear stub.
Take out the plastic grub screw, steel spring
and plastic ball from the counterweight.
Fit a steel grub screw to the counterweight.
Adjust the arm and tighten the grub screw.
You've just saved a lot of money.
If your wondering why the counterweight mods I've
described are not popular, simply there's no profit
margin involved in doing it this way.
Rewiring you can always charge for.
sreten.
Buy the standard RB250 arm.
(I'll note performance per dollar is far better than
any of the modded versions without exception.)
Rewire it yourself.
Glue a piece of steel thread into the plastic rear stub.
Take out the plastic grub screw, steel spring
and plastic ball from the counterweight.
Fit a steel grub screw to the counterweight.
Adjust the arm and tighten the grub screw.
You've just saved a lot of money.
If your wondering why the counterweight mods I've
described are not popular, simply there's no profit
margin involved in doing it this way.
Rewiring you can always charge for.
sreten.
sreten said:In my DIY opinion :
Buy the standard RB250 arm.
(I'll note performance per dollar is far better than
any of the modded versions without exception.)
Rewire it yourself.
...
And what's your DIY opinion for the internal wire?
I have a OL250 with level adjuster and the expressimo weight. Both pieces are easily machined in a metal shop. The only difference being glamour (well, depends on the eye...)
I can't remember the plastic grub screw, steel spring
and plastic ball from the counterweight from my RB250, but maybe it's my memory.
Raka said:
Hi Raka,
Haven't really thought about it. Quality cartridge connectors for
my MC would be my first concern. Probably silver plated copper
stranded hook up wire, not too thin because of the MC.
Sorry to hear your memory is already going
. The Rega RB250 has a spring loaded captive plastic ball held in
by a plastic grub screw than engages with and slips over the
spiral in the plastic counterweight stub.
You do remember the spiral ?
. Sreten.
sreten said:
The Rega RB250 has a spring loaded captive plastic ball held in
by a plastic grub screw than engages with and slips over the
spiral in the plastic counterweight stub.
You do remember the spiral ?
Hi Sreten, you are very active
I remember the spiral, and the screw, but as I replace the counterweight inmediately with the expressimo one, I don't remember the ball. I'll search for it, maybe OL didn't send it.
I'm looking for a rewiring, but can't find a suitable wire easily. I suppose it has to be not solid, but flexible, so my wire wrapping wire is not adequate. I already have the cartridge connector pins.
Raka said:
TBH I have a lot of sympathy with Rega's exasperation with
people re-wring their arms but not much with their grounding.
I'd consider replacing the connectors and the lead and fitting
a proper ground wire.
With my Rega RB250 I've fitted a ground wire and thats it.
Silver plated stranded wire seems to be hard to come across.
Doesn't seem anything special about Cardas or Discovery :
(except they are the right colours)
http://www.takefiveaudio.com/cable_and_wire.htm
For a one piece wire cartridge to amp I'd suggest this very
mundane cable stripped back for the arm internal wiring,
at the amp end heat shrinking is needed to reinforce the
wires after you've run off the 4 screens to the earth terminal,
though I've successfully used electrical tape in the past.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/?userid=SearchEngine&targetmodule=136
sreten.Attachments
Hi Raka
My advice is not to skimp on the tonearm wire. If your ears can differentiate between wires, the tonearm will be the most audible wire in your system. I am no big fan of Cardas wire but it will beat the original Rega wire by far, especially the pathetic disgrace they use outside the arm.
IMO the tonearm wire makes almost as much difference to the final sound as the arm mechanical construction. The best approach is to buy a few different sets of wire, solder the cart clips and phono plugs and try it just hanging outside the arm. If there is no substantial improvement you can save yourself the effort of rewiring. And if the wire is exotic enough i promise to buy it from you
Careful with the Discovery wire - it's much too thick and stiff for the Rega.
My advice is not to skimp on the tonearm wire. If your ears can differentiate between wires, the tonearm will be the most audible wire in your system. I am no big fan of Cardas wire but it will beat the original Rega wire by far, especially the pathetic disgrace they use outside the arm.
IMO the tonearm wire makes almost as much difference to the final sound as the arm mechanical construction. The best approach is to buy a few different sets of wire, solder the cart clips and phono plugs and try it just hanging outside the arm. If there is no substantial improvement you can save yourself the effort of rewiring. And if the wire is exotic enough i promise to buy it from you
Careful with the Discovery wire - it's much too thick and stiff for the Rega.
Thanks for the advices
Peter, my main concern about the rega is the outside wire, as I think it's no good for the suspension, like you say. I'll try to find some "highend" wire, but here is not so easy. Btw, how do you spell Slohmo Mintz?
Sreten, you mean that rewiring and not including a separate ground wire is not a "complete" good idea, don't you?
Thanks for the hints about the wires. How's your 250 doing?
Peter, my main concern about the rega is the outside wire, as I think it's no good for the suspension, like you say. I'll try to find some "highend" wire, but here is not so easy. Btw, how do you spell Slohmo Mintz?
Sreten, you mean that rewiring and not including a separate ground wire is not a "complete" good idea, don't you?
Thanks for the hints about the wires. How's your 250 doing?
analog_sa said:
To be honest i never thought about that. In Linn's 'philosophy' the much less flexible Ittok wire is threated as part of the suspension, which i think is bollocks. The suspension will likely work better and be easier to set with thin wire.
Now you have me
Indeed I do
.If the tone arm cable is not ultra flexible the best thing
to do with it is treat it as part of the suspension system.
The general principle is to damp the rotation mode of the
subchassis and arm around the pivot point of the platter.
This means the thick lead should be dressed to lead off
from the tonearm at ~ 90 degrees to the line between
the bearing and the tone arm and clipped in place.
I always put a twist in a thick lead so you don't have
a straight section "short" of the suspension, and the
position of the cable in the clip needs to be adjusted
so it is neither "pushing" or "pulling" the suspension.
IMO and experience a seperate ground wire is needed for best
noise levels, lowering noise improves "transparency" even if
with no ground wire noise levels seem to be acceptable.
sreten.
analog_sa said:
Yes, only in unbalanced, as I've never come across balanced inputs.
For what I regard as acceptable noise (hum and hash), which is
basically similar to the input hum and noise of my Audiolab 8000A,
I had to remove the internal earth link of the RB250 and connect
the arm base to the earthing of the turntable, all earthed via a
wire to my amp.
A seperate wire seems to be good enough, though if rewiring
I'd use 4 core overall screen with the screen as the ground wire.
I recommended the 4 core individually screened above because
I think the sheathing of each wire is a little thinner in this case.
IMO the Rega grounding is flawed and easily improved,
I'd be surprised if I couldn't make any turntable fitted with
the standard Rega arrangement have obviously lower noise.
sreten.
Hello,
really astonishing is thin solid copper wire as sold by some manufacturers. It is about $2/mile and sounds gorgeous. About the same league as cardas.
Use laquered 0.1mm solid copper wire, which is dedicated for winding transformers and coils. Wire from cart to phono plugs, use a satellite cable for shilding of the external part.
Some stories at my website about rega modding: www.krishu.de > hifi > turntable > rega
Cheers
Christian.
really astonishing is thin solid copper wire as sold by some manufacturers. It is about $2/mile and sounds gorgeous. About the same league as cardas.
Use laquered 0.1mm solid copper wire, which is dedicated for winding transformers and coils. Wire from cart to phono plugs, use a satellite cable for shilding of the external part.
Some stories at my website about rega modding: www.krishu.de > hifi > turntable > rega
Cheers
Christian.
Hello,
I mean you put this solid copper wire in, the external part of it you shield by using a prepared satellite cable: use one with a thick solid wire, pull this out and put the four small tonearm wires in, in case you use RCA phono plugs you might a pair of sattelite cable shielding.
In my opinion the best way of shielding is: connect the shielding of the satellite cables to the ground wire coming out of the arm (connected to the pipe) and connect a separate ground wire there, too. This wire can be connected to pre am ground separately. Sorry for my confusing English ... I should make a sketch to explain ...
Cheers
Christian.
I mean you put this solid copper wire in, the external part of it you shield by using a prepared satellite cable: use one with a thick solid wire, pull this out and put the four small tonearm wires in, in case you use RCA phono plugs you might a pair of sattelite cable shielding.
In my opinion the best way of shielding is: connect the shielding of the satellite cables to the ground wire coming out of the arm (connected to the pipe) and connect a separate ground wire there, too. This wire can be connected to pre am ground separately. Sorry for my confusing English ... I should make a sketch to explain ...
Cheers
Christian.
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