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Rega R200 Anti Skate Belt Replacement
Rega R200 Anti Skate Belt Replacement
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Old 8th November 2017, 02:09 PM   #1
DiyGazza is offline DiyGazza  United Kingdom
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Default Rega R200 Anti Skate Belt Replacement

Just getting ready to embark on replacing the Anti Skate Belt on my 1979/80 Rega Planar 3 R200 Tone Arm.

While there is an excellent article on the how to over on the Vinylengine site, I wondered if any members here had performed this delicate operation and might have some do's and Don'ts or any other tips or tricks not covered in the How to, Such as really useful tools to help get the job done.

Also, does anyone know if I remove the platter and turn the deck upside down, am I likely to get any oil run out of the main bearing? Or is it worth cleaning out the old oil and replacing with some new sewing machine oil, if so, how many drops?.

I intend to put together a fixture to hold the arm in place rather than rely on a combination of mugs and tape as in the original how to, as I suspect some of the pieces are likely to be tight, this way the arm can be supported at all times, so maybe for the main locking collar some mole grips with a strip of rubber wrapped around the collar to prevent damage, the bearing adjuster, it seems can be removed with some round nosed pliers (Which I need to get), again, if someone has been down this road I would be interested to hear your opinions, I might also get a decent tweezer set, just in case.

For disconnection and reconnection of the wiring, which appears to be one hardest things to complete, I thought I could use a threaded rod mounted vertically on the fixture with a large crocodile clip to hold the angled connector in between two nuts and washers which can be turned and carefully raised to reveal the wiring without putting any strain on the fragile wires.

As my eyesight is not what it used to be, I'm also considering buying a USB Microscope for working on the wiring, it will also come in handy should I decide to build anything that uses SMD components.

Like I say, I would really like to hear from anyone who has been down this road and has been rewarded with success.

I'm not interested in upgrading the arm, This is about restoration and putting things back so they may live on for another 30/40 years
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Old 8th November 2017, 02:42 PM   #2
Puffin is offline Puffin  United Kingdom
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Hi, I picked up and R200 about 18 months ago that needed a new anti-skate belt and the arm re-wiring. As I only had the arm I did not need to remove it from the deck. I baulked at having to pay silly money for a new belt and tried a fix that almost worked.....almost, but in the process I had to butcher somewhat the numbered adjuster. Having failed to fix it and having re-wired the arm I "put it aside" and got on with other projects.

I have a mate with a million TT's and he is of the opinion that the deck should function ok without the adjuster. If you are purist this advice may not sit well. Rob.
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Old 8th November 2017, 08:20 PM   #3
DiyGazza is offline DiyGazza  United Kingdom
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Thanks for the reply,

Unfortunately the belt broke in the max position (3) this causes a breakup of sound on very loud passages of music, it has also caused the arm to jump a groove, as I found out yesterday, mostly it sounds ok, but will need to be addressed.
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Old 9th November 2017, 06:14 AM   #4
coolmaster is offline coolmaster
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Hi guys,
I attempted on one R200 many moons ago and wasn't successful. It had one issue I couldn't solve. I was wondering why with the belt installed, it still couldn't work. I dismantled the column assembly to get to the AS mechanism and found there's magnets there. Apparently its lost its magnetism or to a very low level that nothing works. How that happened I've no idea. I gave up soon after.
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Old 9th November 2017, 06:14 PM   #5
Fertom is offline Fertom
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I have the same issue too, i think it is probably factory fault
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Old 9th November 2017, 07:58 PM   #6
DiyGazza is offline DiyGazza  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coolmaster View Post
Hi guys,
I attempted on one R200 many moons ago and wasn't successful. It had one issue I couldn't solve. I was wondering why with the belt installed, it still couldn't work. I dismantled the column assembly to get to the AS mechanism and found there's magnets there. Apparently its lost its magnetism or to a very low level that nothing works. How that happened I've no idea. I gave up soon after.
Wow, that's really strange, well at least I know the magnets in mine are still ok, even on a very slight tilt, there is enough force to swing the arm back towards the arm rest.
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Old 9th November 2017, 08:02 PM   #7
DiyGazza is offline DiyGazza  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fertom View Post
I have the same issue too, i think it is probably factory fault
It's a poor design, the rubber perishes over the years, get's brittle and snaps, maybe a nylon belt would have been a better option, but I don't suppose they ever expected the TT to still be in use nearly 40 years later.
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Old 10th November 2017, 05:57 AM   #8
coolmaster is offline coolmaster
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Originally Posted by DiyGazza View Post
Wow, that's really strange, well at least I know the magnets in mine are still ok, even on a very slight tilt, there is enough force to swing the arm back towards the arm rest.
If the AS magnets are ok, then the arm is worth saving and should perform better after renewing the wires and cable to higher quality.
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Old 10th November 2017, 06:53 AM   #9
traderbam is offline traderbam  Europe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DiyGazza View Post
Also, does anyone know if I remove the platter and turn the deck upside down, am I likely to get any oil run out of the main bearing? Or is it worth cleaning out the old oil and replacing with some new sewing machine oil, if so, how many drops?.
Yes. The plastic sub-platter will slowly fall out along with the ball bearing. A clean would be timely, cotton bud. Use oil sparingly... a couple of drops before replacing the ball and a drop on the spindle. Give the sub-platter some time to seat; if you over oil, the sub-platter won’t seat fully and you will need to remove it and soak a bit of oil away using a bud or paper towel.
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Last edited by traderbam; 10th November 2017 at 06:56 AM.
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Old 10th November 2017, 07:37 AM   #10
coolmaster is offline coolmaster
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Originally Posted by DiyGazza View Post
Also, does anyone know if I remove the platter and turn the deck upside down, am I likely to get any oil run out of the main bearing? Or is it worth cleaning out the old oil and replacing with some new sewing machine oil, if so, how many drops?.
You're free to clean the bearing and spindle shaft anytime and its dead easy. The recommended lubricant is a drop or 2 of ordinary SAE80W/90 Hypoid gear oil or equivalent. After mopping out everything in the bearing well, ensure there's a ball inside, clean the spindle shaft, a drop of oil on the shaft bottom, a thin smear of oil on the shaft, slide it in without rotating, let it settle and test spin, you're done.

Last edited by coolmaster; 10th November 2017 at 07:39 AM.
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