I'm looking at perhaps buying a Denon DP-55L or DP-57L or 59L DD TT out of Japan and importing it to Canada. The Japanese turntables are rated at 100V 50/60 Hz. I've done some searching on Google and found forums where people have speculated that you can't just run them on North American current without a Step Down/Up transformer and others where people have speculated that you can given that the DDs draw little power and have transformers in them capable of handling NA 120 V 60Hz without any ill effects.
Does anybody know for sure? I imagine there are more than a few people on this forum who have imported Japanese 100V TTs. Were you able to just plug 'em into NA current and run them or did you have to convert them or use a step down/up transformer?
If a conversion has to be done on the Denon's, what has to be done to convert them to run on NA current without any external transformer?
Does anybody know for sure? I imagine there are more than a few people on this forum who have imported Japanese 100V TTs. Were you able to just plug 'em into NA current and run them or did you have to convert them or use a step down/up transformer?
If a conversion has to be done on the Denon's, what has to be done to convert them to run on NA current without any external transformer?
DP-55L is a nostalgic TT for me. It was too expensive that day when I was a teenager. I remember DD TT was the latest and very popular. There are many people who import a 117V/60Hz amplifier and use it in Japan.This is the reverse situation as you. They also have the problem to use an up-transformer or not. As long as I know they usually use a transformer.
I found the old datasheet of DP-57L It uses AC-servo motor and guarantees its TT accuracy from AC90V to 110V. This is relatively rare specification because AC voltage range is usually recommended operating range.
This site is a Japanese owner of DP-57L.
DENON?DP-57L?????? ( ????? ) - 50????????? - Yahoo!???
You can see a picture inside TT where a transformer exists. I suppose this use a linear regulator at the left side of a transformer. It has a relatively large heat sink probably enough for 110V. If you use 120V, it may be a matter of heat sink, IMHO. But for proper operation, a down-transformer may be a good solution.
To use or not to use, that is the question.
I found the old datasheet of DP-57L It uses AC-servo motor and guarantees its TT accuracy from AC90V to 110V. This is relatively rare specification because AC voltage range is usually recommended operating range.
This site is a Japanese owner of DP-57L.
DENON?DP-57L?????? ( ????? ) - 50????????? - Yahoo!???
You can see a picture inside TT where a transformer exists. I suppose this use a linear regulator at the left side of a transformer. It has a relatively large heat sink probably enough for 110V. If you use 120V, it may be a matter of heat sink, IMHO. But for proper operation, a down-transformer may be a good solution.
To use or not to use, that is the question.
Line voltages here could 25% or more high relative to the intended operating voltage of that TT, think about what happens when a transformer core saturates, and if it doesn't it is highly likely that you will over voltage the filter caps. At best critical components will run substantially warmer and life will be shortened.
You can get a small 15 - 20V toroid and wire it to buck the AC line voltage, and it will be quiet. Just stick it in a small box and plug the table into it. This is exactly what I do with one of my European tables that really likes 110V or so better than my 123V mains.
You can get a small 15 - 20V toroid and wire it to buck the AC line voltage, and it will be quiet. Just stick it in a small box and plug the table into it. This is exactly what I do with one of my European tables that really likes 110V or so better than my 123V mains.
This sounds like an interesting solution. The problem is I'm not an electrical guy so I'm not too sure how to physically do what you're suggesting.
Can you please provide some more detail on how to do what you're suggesting?Would this be something like what I'd need to do what you suggest?
25VA 15V + 15V 30VCT Power Transformer Antek AN-0215 | eBay
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I'm not sure how it needs to be wired in but I can take a guess. Do I just splice into the mains supply ahead of anything in the TT, connect the mains to the high voltage side of the toroid and then connect the low voltage side back into the line feeding into the transformer, etc, in the TT? Is that all there is to it?
If that's how you do it and if there's room, I could maybe hide the thing up under the plinth so it's out of sight and out of mind. That would be nice. Also inexpensive as well!
If that's how you do it and if there's room, I could maybe hide the thing up under the plinth so it's out of sight and out of mind. That would be nice. Also inexpensive as well!
Here is the idea, you may have to swap the connections on either the primary or secondary (not both) in order to have it buck the line voltage. Don't forget the fuse! (I actually have a similar Antek transformer wired up to do the same job) I recommend a separate box so there is no issue with magnetic fields.
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Thanks for that. The diagram helps tremendously.
What size (amps) and type of fuse would I need? Which do you recommend, a plastic or metal box? Can you point out a good one on Mouser to get?
Also, I can just as easily get a 20V toroid which will take it all the way down to 100 V instead of 105 IF the voltage I'm getting is exactly 120 but would take the TT mains voltage down below 100 if the voltage at my house is or fluctuates below 120. I suppose those turntables were engineered to tolerate a fair bit of variability on the incoming power supply but if you had to choose between the 15 and the 20, which one would you go for? As you know, they both cost about the same so cost would not be the issue.
Thanks again.
What size (amps) and type of fuse would I need? Which do you recommend, a plastic or metal box? Can you point out a good one on Mouser to get?
Also, I can just as easily get a 20V toroid which will take it all the way down to 100 V instead of 105 IF the voltage I'm getting is exactly 120 but would take the TT mains voltage down below 100 if the voltage at my house is or fluctuates below 120. I suppose those turntables were engineered to tolerate a fair bit of variability on the incoming power supply but if you had to choose between the 15 and the 20, which one would you go for? As you know, they both cost about the same so cost would not be the issue.
Thanks again.
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I recommend a 1A MDL type fuse or equivalent. I would use a bulkhead style fuse holder.
This is a 1A time delay type. Any similar type will work fine. Note that you can probably get away with a 0.5A time delay given the rating.
Measure your line voltage and if it is consistently 120V or above I'd go for the 20V version otherwise the 15V version should be fine.
This is a 1A time delay type. Any similar type will work fine. Note that you can probably get away with a 0.5A time delay given the rating.
Measure your line voltage and if it is consistently 120V or above I'd go for the 20V version otherwise the 15V version should be fine.
I didn't see this posting before I made my last posting. I'm sorry but I need you to explain in laymen's terms what you mean here and how to make sure I phase the windings correctly.
I'm an engineer but not an EE. I had to take one EE course as part of my degree. It was Electromagnetics and was one of the, if not THE toughest course I took in Engineering school.
It didn't help that the Prof wasn't very good. I managed a pass with 51% on the final exam. Going into that test I think I had something like a 20% average but I passed the final so I passed the course. Seventy percent of the class failed the course and they were almost all EE students and VERY clever people. I was just lucky to pass. I take my hat off to anyone who can get through EE. 
So something like this?
BK/MDL-1-R Bussmann / Eaton | Mouser Canada
and like this for a holder?
IN-LINE AGU FUSE HOLDER | All Electronics Corp.
Also, what would be best to use, a metal or ABS or other plastic box?
BK/MDL-1-R Bussmann / Eaton | Mouser Canada
and like this for a holder?
IN-LINE AGU FUSE HOLDER | All Electronics Corp.
Also, what would be best to use, a metal or ABS or other plastic box?
All you need to do is wire it as shown, if the output voltage with the turntable NOT connected measures between 100 - 105V you are all set, if it doesn't swap the connections to either the primary or secondary of the transformer and recheck. The incorrect connection will boost the voltage depending on transformer used to 135 - 140V so it's an obvious error.
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