Google: "4mm 3/16" adapter"
Quite a few hits to choose from.
This one on e-Bay UK: PROP ADAPTER 3/16 4.75mm and 4mm rc model boat 2 pieces brass reducer | eBay
Quite a few hits to choose from.
This one on e-Bay UK: PROP ADAPTER 3/16 4.75mm and 4mm rc model boat 2 pieces brass reducer | eBay
Thanks for the link
Hi pyramid,
Thank you for the link, when I did a google search I did find anything like that, Murphy's law is alive and well
I shall herewith order these items, my thanks, I completed the sine wave gen yesterday and it worked first time, I am still in shock!
My thanks to you and Ralph.
Regards
Johnny
Hi pyramid,
Thank you for the link, when I did a google search I did find anything like that, Murphy's law is alive and well
I shall herewith order these items, my thanks, I completed the sine wave gen yesterday and it worked first time, I am still in shock!
My thanks to you and Ralph.
Regards
Johnny
It seems like there hasn't been any real progress concerning a source for pulleys made to Bill's drawings for the masses.
I have made a few pulleys for myself out of Delrin and brass. Although I haven't created a "final" version, I have already produced a good usable concentric pulley.
The pulley I created is a bit different. It is substantially taller than Bill's drawing. This is due to modifications I have made to my table so I could place my motor pod underneath the plinth and allow for belt or rim drive.
I do not personally have the time or inclination to machine quantities of pulleys.
I did wonder if having a pulley produced at a shop with full CNC capability would make any real difference.
To that end, I approached a friend that has such a shop. I showed him Bill's drawings and asked him about producing them in Delrin in either the .25 or 4mm bores, as well as a longer .25 version for my own needs.
His shop is quite busy right now. However, he said he would make up a few of each version for me to test if I gave him 2 or 3 weeks.
I will post information about the pulleys when I receive them and I have been able to evaluate them.
I am not one for complex arrangements and having to spend an inordinate amount of time organizing group buys or etc. If the product is good and the price is decent I will most likely buy a quantity of them myself and then offer them for sale.
PLEASE DO NOT PM ME WITH REQUESTS. My PMs are almost always full and I won't be able to keep track and communicate.
If/When I have viable pulleys to offer I will post information.
I have made a few pulleys for myself out of Delrin and brass. Although I haven't created a "final" version, I have already produced a good usable concentric pulley.
The pulley I created is a bit different. It is substantially taller than Bill's drawing. This is due to modifications I have made to my table so I could place my motor pod underneath the plinth and allow for belt or rim drive.
I do not personally have the time or inclination to machine quantities of pulleys.
I did wonder if having a pulley produced at a shop with full CNC capability would make any real difference.
To that end, I approached a friend that has such a shop. I showed him Bill's drawings and asked him about producing them in Delrin in either the .25 or 4mm bores, as well as a longer .25 version for my own needs.
His shop is quite busy right now. However, he said he would make up a few of each version for me to test if I gave him 2 or 3 weeks.
I will post information about the pulleys when I receive them and I have been able to evaluate them.
I am not one for complex arrangements and having to spend an inordinate amount of time organizing group buys or etc. If the product is good and the price is decent I will most likely buy a quantity of them myself and then offer them for sale.
PLEASE DO NOT PM ME WITH REQUESTS. My PMs are almost always full and I won't be able to keep track and communicate.
If/When I have viable pulleys to offer I will post information.
Appreciate everyone's comments about their approach to finishing this project. I just ordered the BLWS231S-24-2000 motor from Anaheim and got a couple of different pulleys and belts from Sterling Instruments. In case anyone is interested, here are the options that I'll be trying. I ordered the single grooved pulley (0.25" bore, 0.75" outer diameter) and 1/8" diameter belt, 14" diameter.
Product | Designatronics Store | Stock Drive Products/Sterling Instrument
Product | Designatronics Store | Stock Drive Products/Sterling Instrument
I also thought I'd give a try to a flat belt pulley and flat belt, so I ordered the following items as well. I thought that the flat belt might give some of the benefits that the double belts that others recommended.
Product | Designatronics Store | Stock Drive Products/Sterling Instrument
Product | Designatronics Store | Stock Drive Products/Sterling Instrument
I'll let people know how these different options turn out.
By the way, anyone have a recommendation for an good cheap pulley puller to help me when I want to swap between pulleys?
Thanks,
---Gary
If anyone figures out the GB for 4mm pulleys, I would like one, too. Maybe we are up to 10 pieces already?
It is hard to get ye-olde-locale-machine-shoppe to make a pulley that is usably concentric (tolerably eccentric?)
I actually have a BLWR-172s-24-2000 form an idler drive project a couple years ago. The local machine shop tried three times, but couldn't give me a pulley that didn't send the motor wildly wobbling on the rubber motor mount grommets of my Rek-O-Kut b12. One could easily feel the eccentricity with one's finger while it was spinning--even with their best effort.
I am currently using the motor on a project based on a Rek-O-Kut belt-drive platter and bearing-- thus my interest with this thread.
I am using a flat belt, and machined my own pulley from Nylon using the BLDC motor itself as the lathe. It has plenty of torque. Might be a bit hard on the bearings, but with a light touch while machining, it didn't seem to do the motor any harm. Nylon cuts quite easily.
Maybe I should get a small acetyl rod from McMaster and see what I can do with that.
Just ordered my SG4 and MA3d boards. Looking forward!
It is hard to get ye-olde-locale-machine-shoppe to make a pulley that is usably concentric (tolerably eccentric?)
I actually have a BLWR-172s-24-2000 form an idler drive project a couple years ago. The local machine shop tried three times, but couldn't give me a pulley that didn't send the motor wildly wobbling on the rubber motor mount grommets of my Rek-O-Kut b12. One could easily feel the eccentricity with one's finger while it was spinning--even with their best effort.
I am currently using the motor on a project based on a Rek-O-Kut belt-drive platter and bearing-- thus my interest with this thread.
I am using a flat belt, and machined my own pulley from Nylon using the BLDC motor itself as the lathe. It has plenty of torque. Might be a bit hard on the bearings, but with a light touch while machining, it didn't seem to do the motor any harm. Nylon cuts quite easily.
Maybe I should get a small acetyl rod from McMaster and see what I can do with that.
Just ordered my SG4 and MA3d boards. Looking forward!
Read the OP; the MA-3D is designed to work only with the 2 motors specified. As Ralph pointed out, the Papst motor requires much more power than this amp is designed to deliver. That being said, the SG-4 can drive higher power amps to power your motor. Perhaps someone else who has done this can guide you on how to do it. I don't have the time or inclination to engineer solutions for every application that comes up.
Ralphcooke: Got it. this is what I assumed, but I had to ask.
Pyramid: I totally understand. There are so many variables!
I just thought to ask because the Papst motor in question was mentioned a few times in this thread and wondered if anyone might have tried. Thought it might be fun to make a direct comparison-- having both Paspst AC, and Anaheim Automation BLDC motors.
Pyramid: I totally understand. There are so many variables!
I just thought to ask because the Papst motor in question was mentioned a few times in this thread and wondered if anyone might have tried. Thought it might be fun to make a direct comparison-- having both Paspst AC, and Anaheim Automation BLDC motors.
VPI HDX Pulley dimensions
hi again gents,
I cant find any information on the exact dimessions on the VPI HDX Pulley, look as i may.
can anyone quote the exact :
outside diameter of the pully.
the inside diameter of the pulley.
the hight of the pulley.
I ask as i have bits of a custom motor pod left over from years ago but need to know if i can make one fit (before i buy one!).. pully hight being very imporent for this project.
regards again
johnny
hi again gents,
I cant find any information on the exact dimessions on the VPI HDX Pulley, look as i may.
can anyone quote the exact :
outside diameter of the pully.
the inside diameter of the pulley.
the hight of the pulley.
I ask as i have bits of a custom motor pod left over from years ago but need to know if i can make one fit (before i buy one!).. pully hight being very imporent for this project.
regards again
johnny
Its evident that VPI have various sizes of pulley for its different models and variants which sport the 600rpm/60hz and later 300rpm/60hz motor, which will need different diameter pulleys. Since I reside in Malaysia, the one that's fitted to my Classic 1 for my country which is 230V/50hz/500rpm motor with a bigger diameter pulley that suit the motor. I peeked at the last version of Classic 1 which VPI changed the motor to a smaller Hurst AB 49mm/5W/24V 600rpm motor with integrated speed controller installed inside the plinth. My 500rpm motor pulley measure 0.754" for 33rpm and 1.037" for 45rpm with 3/16" bore. The later Classic 1 pulley have a 1/8" bore and different diameter which I didn't measure.
I'm experimenting to change the original Delrin pulley for a 2-3 belt drive type and I'm trying my luck to have a local machine shop to turn one out of metal based on the original pulley diameter of 0.754". I've no idea how it'll turn out and hope they can get it right.
I'm experimenting to change the original Delrin pulley for a 2-3 belt drive type and I'm trying my luck to have a local machine shop to turn one out of metal based on the original pulley diameter of 0.754". I've no idea how it'll turn out and hope they can get it right.
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hi coolmaster
hi Coolmaster,
thank you for the reply, i also have 240v/50Hz/and need 600 RPM rotation at the pulley, i was thinking of haveing a pullly machined but the standard of work is so rough here its not worth the risk, but i can only go to a max diamater of 0.6 inch, just like Pyramids CAD drawing- but cant get that done (group buy-Hint-Hint!) so i require the diamater of a VPI HRX pully (for use with BLWRS motor with a 4 mm to 3/4 adaptor- so i know weather to purchase the Pully or not?--($70 is a lot to waste!)
I wish you the best of luck with your experements, i am also elbow deep in truntable bits as i type, the most difficult thing i have ever constructed.
Best regards
Johnny
hi Coolmaster,
thank you for the reply, i also have 240v/50Hz/and need 600 RPM rotation at the pulley, i was thinking of haveing a pullly machined but the standard of work is so rough here its not worth the risk, but i can only go to a max diamater of 0.6 inch, just like Pyramids CAD drawing- but cant get that done (group buy-Hint-Hint!) so i require the diamater of a VPI HRX pully (for use with BLWRS motor with a 4 mm to 3/4 adaptor- so i know weather to purchase the Pully or not?--($70 is a lot to waste!)
I wish you the best of luck with your experements, i am also elbow deep in truntable bits as i type, the most difficult thing i have ever constructed.
Best regards
Johnny
I would ask on vpiforum.com, some of their members have a surpris8ng level of detailed information that they share freely. I wouldn't mention this project specifically however, there has been some back and forth between VPIs speed controller and 3rd party solutions.
I have an Empire-based DIY table that uses a Papst 3-phase motor. Currently it's being driven by an Eagle/Roadrunner combination and uses a spoofing cap to generate the offset phases. It actually runs quite well with the Eagle and draws 23 watts steady state, but nearly 30 watts at start-up measured via a Kill-a-Watt meter.
As others here have said, in addition to the SG4 phase generator, you'll need one amp per phase, and a step-up transformer for each amp. The TDA-7492 class D amps (pre-built on eBay) might be a reasonable amp choice with something like the Amgis L01-6362 12V toroid transformer that Bill cites elsewhere, one for each phase. (see 60 WPC Amplifier for DIY Turntable Motor Drive
see post #47 for example.
Hopefully this will help you.
I'm just finishing my build of the SG4/MA3 to drive a BLWS motor for my VPI Scout. I'll then do some listening tests to see if I like that motor better than the stock 600rpm Hurst motor that is driven single-phase by a Falcon/Roaddrunner combination. I'll be reporting my observations after I've given it a few weeks of listening. Unfortunately I can't compare the BLWS motor directly to the Papst in the same table, so I won't really be able to address your question.
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For those who might have missed it, there was a thread a while ago about replacing the phase capacitor with a multiphase supply.
Optimally driving a (VPI) synchronous turntable motor
It quickly moved on from just VPI to many different motor types, 2 and 3 phase.
There's a lot of now redundant info regarding the sourcing of a multiphase generator before Bill (Pyramid) very kindly created the SG4, but it may be worth looking through for info regarding driving mains powered (110 or 230V) motors
Optimally driving a (VPI) synchronous turntable motor
It quickly moved on from just VPI to many different motor types, 2 and 3 phase.
There's a lot of now redundant info regarding the sourcing of a multiphase generator before Bill (Pyramid) very kindly created the SG4, but it may be worth looking through for info regarding driving mains powered (110 or 230V) motors