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#11 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Porto Alegre
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Quote:
thanks for all the help, but I still have three questions: 1) the thing is, it already HAS a Shure cartridge. should I get rid of it and use something like the Audio-Technica, or is it just a question of being a waste of a good cartridge? I mean, would changing to a "worse" cartridge actually make the sound better? 2) I can't find anywhere whether the Shure VN35MR fits the old V15 Type III or only the MR models. 3) Which low-mass arm should I get for the Pionner, that would be a good fit for the Shure cartridge? (it seems foolish to me to spend money on another cartridge). |
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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I severely doubt the other stylus will fit.
Old NOS (new old stock) V15III styli are likely to be perished. A new stylus is usually 75% of the cost of the cost of a cartridge, unless you are being artificially being charged for the cartridge body. The AT cartridges should be much less than a new shure stylus. Not getting a specific stylus gives you far more choice. A new arm ? who can say ? If your trying to pick one up on the cheap. There are good ones and not so good ones. Its a question of what you can pick up second-hand at a reasonable price. For Brazil its more difficult, as I don't know what arms were imported there and in what quantities. But fixed headshell is a good starting point. sreten.
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#13 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Porto Alegre
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Quote:
Quote:
I have a friend who lives in Montreal and comes to Brazil for the holidays every year. I was thinking of either asking him to try and find something, or buy it over the internet from some trustworthy retailer.Thanks for all the help, BTW. |
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#14 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Porto Alegre
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Quote:
http://www.shure.com/xrefphono.html if I can understand it correctly, the VN35MR stylus will fit any V15 Type III cartridge. Which would mean some U$90,00 for it, and leave me with the job of finding a good arm for it. |
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#15 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Kungsbacka on the Swedish westcoast
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Dont bother with this stylus change, go for the AT 95 or a cheap Grado, both are far better cartridges than the Shure ever was, and the Shure absolutely isnīt suited for that arm plus not suited for a directdrive tt as it is far more sensitive to the magnetic strayfields around the motor. If You want to put a better arm on that player thereīs some extensive rework to do, the Philips is far more suited for an armchange
Buy the AT95 /110 and enjoy the music instead!
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Ingvar |
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#16 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Well personally to me its always good to fit a tone-arm to
an older turntable that that could have been fitted when it was new, especially if you can find one cheap. So we are dealing with North America, again a slight problem as I don't know what was popular at the time over the pond. A lowish mass arm would be as nice touch, fixed headshell. Audio Technica made some decent ones, think you could swap armtubes on these. There's the Mayware Formula 4 and Hadcock unipivots, there was also a popular Japanese unipivot but I can't remember the maker or model, around Ģ80 here at the time. (It may come to me in the next few days....) Theres the classic Mission arm, though I don't think you could get this cheap, the same for the SME low mass arm. Checkout the tone-arm manuals here : http://www.nakedresource.com/phpBB2/index.php This is very good value, as the tip will last at least twice as long as an elliptical stylus and suits lowish mass arms well : http://shopping.netsuite.com/s.nl/c....it.A/id.219/.f If your going for a transplant post some pics of the pioneer internals for some suggestions of mods. sreten.
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#17 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Quote:
changing is very difficult (unless you have a lathe), you also need an arm that you can easily shorten its effective length. Fortunately the arms I mentioned are perfect. I've heard about hum issues with Grado's, so from what your saying they wouldn't be a good idea with the Pioneer. IMO an arm transplant to the Pioneer is likely to be much easier, though it does need improving but I can't see it being too difficult to beef up and make / fit a decent mat. It won't be a good as a fully reworked Philips, but I don't know anyone who could rebuild a Philips properly. (myself excepted of course ) sreten.
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#18 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Porto Alegre
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Quote:
And to top it all, the ON/OFF switch stopped working a few years ago. The problem was solved the easiest way: getting rid of it, and connecting the wires directly. But whoever did that forgot to screw everything back in place. So the whole interior is loose inside the chassis. I could also take a picture, but it's not a pretty sight ![]() In short, the Philips would require a lot of work to become a good turntable, while the Pioneer is in perfect condition. Considering how much of a newbie I am to tweaking turntables, I guess I'll start by changing the cartridge to a better match. But I think the Pioneer deserves a rebuild. |
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#19 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Durban
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Hi Guys
been there done that and went further. The PL 51 is a pretty good table with a few funnies , like sprung feet (adjustable for levelling) , remove and rubber coat the springs , use product made by Locktite. These were eventually replaced with AudioTechnica isolation feet ,rather scarce now. next find a suitable aly box and transfer all the electronics to it and connect via a cable , I used a 9 pin D type connector plug and socket. Leave the motor circuitry where it is. The original arm was removed and replaced with a 3009 MKII Improved and ran for a long time with either V15 III or Empire 1000 ZEX (or sime such) as well as a Empire 4000 DIII , ADC XLM VLM , Grado ?, Satin , Coral ,and a Signet TK7e carts. All the above were ok , with the exception of the Signet which vibrated itself right out of the plastic body (talk about the Grado jive) this was a rave session at least. The Coral and Satin were way better being MCs' and the whole set up did duty in many a shoot out with a TD 125 MKII /3009 MKII /V15 III. Then I got an Audio Technica AT OC9 MC and the wheels fell off. The Sme just could not get it right so I dumped it and got a Grace 707 MKII (Quadmaster) and it sang. It MUST have a decent solid platform at least if the above is too much work. There was a Pioneer MC cart specially made for this model called the PC 50 and I have seen it on Ebay in the past but must be as rare as hens' teeth. Do have an owners manual somewhere and there was a right up in HFN/RR by Kesler I think on the whole series PL 51 ,61 and 71. Oh and by the way the original arm was every bit as good as the 3009 in retrospect and I realise I only changed it because I believed all that , Sme uber alles crap hype of the time ,, auto lift at end of play just was not done old chap and made where ?just won't do me boy.
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Keith Birss |
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#20 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Just add IMO the Pioneer arm is every bit as bad as the SME.
The grace arm at a good price is another choice. For the said Pioneer arm - I have araldited all the joints, adjusted the bearing for minimum play, chucked away the balance wieght, and araldited a magnesium headshell in place without the usual headshell rubber washer. It was somewhat better. sreten.
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