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#171 |
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diyAudio Member
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Salas,
I'm afraid I'll take a day or two to put together what you have shown, with the corrections. I already soldered the current circuit. What I need to look for is 10 Vds on the second stage JFET? Is this correct? |
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#173 |
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diyAudio Chief Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Athens-Greece
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Yes, you look for 10VDC from that point I show and ground. If you have one channel still somewhat quiter, you can play with its R8 trimmer until it matches output to the other channel. In that case, the quiter channel may show less than 10VDC after you trim it.
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#175 |
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diyAudio Chief Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Athens-Greece
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Its called degeneration. Now the resistor controls the current along with gm by creating some little local NFB. The matching will be easier for gain between channels, the THD lower because of that source degeneration, and of lower level than before, was a waste anyway.
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#176 |
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diyAudio Member
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Salas,
Can you help once more? I got new Nimh batteries.... now I got close to 30V from the battery. How do I drop the 6V? I want to put a resistor in series with the battery, but I don't know what value unless I know how much current is flowing. For some reason, I can't measure the current in my existing circuit. |
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#177 |
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diyAudio Chief Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Athens-Greece
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Easy, and you filter better too.
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#179 |
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diyAudio Chief Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Athens-Greece
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Ohm's law. 1k2 drops 6V for 5mA that each stage will roughly use. 1k-1k2 will get you there depending on your batteries top voltage and how much around 5mA each of your fets really draws in practice. The 220uF caps make a long enough RC time constant with the given resistor ballpark value so to bypass even under 10Hz. Your first stage especially needs that because batteries have enough impedance to pass modulation from the stronger swinging 2nd stage. So you do two good things with one needed Vdrop move.
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