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Old 16th May 2015, 03:26 PM   #1
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Default 3R Turntable Discussion: Reclaim-Rework-Relisten

My friend and I are Working on Turntable Plinths under 3R Name..
We'll make new plinth and use old turntable parts or diy Parts etc..

Open discussion.. Opinions on our ideas and work is welcome.. New suggestions will be appreciated..

It would be nice to know how people feel about many aspects to help us along..For one, some feel damping properties of MDF is better than Harwood.. I can't say for sure but machining hardwood is much more appealing and it seems new plinths made from Hardwood are more accepted..

Have a plan for a Planar 3 Plinth made in hardwood.. I made 3 drawings, showing bottom here.. Planer 3 is hollow, is it hollow for cost effectiveness.. Will a solid wood plinth improve the performance..

The spike is a design of mine(Used on speaker bases too).. and it was well thought out.. It's a great leveling foot.. Designed to tighten on a base like a Nut and bolt, notice the bottom nut has 2 holes for a spanner wrench.. I ordered 200 sets from china.. Have a good source, thinking about arm boards in quantity too..

Eventually the plinths(sanely priced), and more, will be for sale on a website.. Flexapathy.com.. Apathy Toward Flexing

Joel
Attached Images
File Type: png Planer 3 Basic Cutting Layout Bottom.png (125.9 KB, 183 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_0057.jpg (362.9 KB, 181 views)
File Type: jpg 20150512_205805.jpg (885.3 KB, 182 views)
File Type: png image001.png (284.5 KB, 176 views)
File Type: png image002.png (165.1 KB, 171 views)

Last edited by Joel Wesseling; 16th May 2015 at 08:15 PM. Reason: Used on speaker base in wrong place
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Old 16th May 2015, 07:57 PM   #2
sreten is offline sreten  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joel Wesseling View Post
... Planer 3 is hollow, is it hollow for cost effectiveness...

Joel
Hi,

Very unlikely to be true, unless you can come up with
an explanation of how the machining saves any money.

And no a solid wood plinth for the P3 will make it sound
worse, though look nice, it won't be a Rega anymore.

I recall years ago a German kit that converted the
then P3 to a Roksan-u-like, it never was popular.

rgds, sreten.
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Old 17th May 2015, 12:59 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sreten View Post
Hi,

Very unlikely to be true, unless you can come up with
an explanation of how the machining saves any money.

And no a solid wood plinth for the P3 will make it sound
worse, though look nice with minimal coats, it won't be a Rega anymore.

I recall years ago a German kit that converted the
then P3 to a Roksan-u-like, it never was popular.

rgds, sreten.



thanks sreten,

"explanation of how the machining saves any money"
I was thinking that when I measured the dimensions, that it would be faster and cost less from one solid piece.. The only possibility I can think of is that painting materials like MDF require a lot of sealing and build up coats to produce a proper colored finish.... Thin layer of hard board would be easier to paint quickly with minimal coats... Also resin or plastic material would spray nice.. As it is the P3 paint comes off easily..

"sound worse"
Hopefully I'll find out and just try a solid plinth.. Stock P3 sound is not exactly hi end but have not yet installed a really good cartridge..

Edit: Is it possible P3 design goal is to be an effects box, hence the hollow plinth..

Last edited by Joel Wesseling; 17th May 2015 at 01:19 AM.
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Old 17th May 2015, 01:03 AM   #4
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Joel hello,
I ,m glad you have made your thread the Project R3.
hopefully, i can learn a lot from you.

I have see your the Rega plans in the first image. The plinth for rega p3?
hardwood materials provide different damping effect depends on the type of wood used. for this project what kind of wood you use?

Your the DIY plinth is very nice and perfectly. I like the white color.
both of the arm premises that balance.and certainly separate motors.

you have a good spike with a pointed tip that can be set up and down. you order a lot ... but it could be used as flexible.

Have a nice the thread

Greating
Ed

Last edited by suwaned; 17th May 2015 at 01:06 AM.
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Old 17th May 2015, 01:24 AM   #5
AVWERK is offline AVWERK  United States
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Solid woods would be worse than mdf of the same dimensions.
Since you are hard coupling to a foundation you will probably come close to exciting the natural woods resonant frequency and much less so with MDF.

Won't look nearly as good of course, but you want a material soft enough to absorb but hard enough to handle the weight and not ring at any excitable frequency
Layering MDF would work well and not cost a fortune.

Regards
David
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Old 17th May 2015, 01:41 AM   #6
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Hi Ed..
I Hope to see many of your posts on here..

For the white paint, I have a good painter and I mentioned on other thread so repeating here but Him and his workers layed the finish on Energy Veritas speakers and all API speakers..
I really like white too.. I like orange..


$3800 for shindo plinth made from cherry.. C'mon..
30 Years to develop a slab of cherry for a turntable?

6moons audio reviews: Garrard 301 Restoration Project

"The Birch-ply stack plinth is considered to be a very good sounding base for the Garrard 301. In this style of plinth, layers of Birch ply are glued together with cutouts in each layer that are just big enough for the motor assembly to fit into. For the last 30 years, this has been the most common design used in Japan and the rest of the world to get contemporary good sound from a Garrard 301. There are some pretty straightforward ways of doing this cheaply to get about 80% of what the Garrard is said to be ultimately capable of.


The solid layered Cherry Shindo plinth is considered to be the ultimate sonic treat. It is said that the opening in the plinth fits around the Garrard motor assembly like a glove. While quizzing Jonathan about the Shindo plinth size, he told me that the Shindo plinth is actually not too large. "It comfortably fits the 301 with a 12" arm. The overall size of the Shindo plinth is 550 280 440 mm WxHxD and it weighs 26.5 kg." It sits on a base that measures 550 140 440 mm WxHxD. Ken Shindo has spent about 30 years perfecting his plinth design and materials choices. Trial and error and lots of saw dust later, the Shindo plinth is reportedly the best one on Earth. Two people who've heard it told me that "it will simply blow your mind". The Shindo Cherry plinth with a machined steel arm board cut for a Shindo or Ortofon 12" arm retails for $3800."
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Old 17th May 2015, 05:52 AM   #7
Hiten is offline Hiten  India
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Wouldn't there be different plinths design and material for different drive (Idler/Belt/Direct) ? If plinth is square with three feet, aesthetically two feet in front would look good. Unless it is compromising the goal of plinth.
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Old 17th May 2015, 06:20 AM   #8
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Hi joel.

You have a good painter... i had seen Him by your plint...

Garrard 301 by Shindo , yes it is a greatest. .. but very expensive to me... and time by time a garrard like antique goods and a price become to high...

Dimention of the plinth by shindo not large.. and moon review said this made from good wooden material.

Used ply wood, solid wood or mdf.. what you choice?
I agree with david. Solid wood give asound natura nuaece. ..


Regards
ed


Note : i'm newbie ... not good speaking english..
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Old 17th May 2015, 04:25 PM   #9
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Joel, you might want to consider constrained layer damping. Baltic birch is a good material at a reasonable cost, and I have had good results with it. For a material at a higher price, consider panzerholz. It can be purchased near you from Delignit.
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Old 19th May 2015, 01:55 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AVWERK View Post
Solid woods would be worse than mdf of the same dimensions.
Since you are hard coupling to a foundation you will probably come close to exciting the natural woods resonant frequency and much less so with MDF.

Won't look nearly as good of course, but you want a material soft enough to absorb but hard enough to handle the weight and not ring at any excitable frequency
Layering MDF would work well and not cost a fortune.

Regards
David
A friend of mine keeps who is real experienced keeps pushing me toward MDF for proper damping in Speakers and TT's.. I just hate working with it..
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