converting a sme 3009 II i, 4-pin plug to phono’s - diyAudio
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Old 29th January 2004, 12:56 PM   #1
Mark25 is offline Mark25  United Kingdom
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Default converting a sme 3009 II i, 4-pin plug to phono’s

All,
Does anybody have any suggestions on what to do here? sme supply a phono conversion, but at £102.24 +vat, it is prohibitively expensive. Do any suppliers like Maplins in the UK have anything appropriate? Or has anybody on here got the manufacturer's name of a set of phono sockets they have used for this conversion?
Thanks in advance
Mark
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Old 29th January 2004, 02:38 PM   #2
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I am just about to do this with my 3012 using a shaped and drilled piece of PTFE (Teflon) and a pair of Maplin sockets. Looks easy enough (famous last words!).
I'll let you know how I get on.

Brian.
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Old 29th January 2004, 03:22 PM   #3
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Here's a photo of the bits.

[IMG]SMEConversionPic1.jpg[/IMG][IMG]
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Old 30th January 2004, 07:16 AM   #4
Mark25 is offline Mark25  United Kingdom
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Hi Brian,
Thanks for the photos, very useful given that I don't have the arm to hand and have to prepare for this job and then do it in a weekend, when I next visit the UK. How are you intending to connect the earth tonearm wires to those sockets? There doesn’t appear to be an earth solder tag from the photo.
Mark
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Old 30th January 2004, 08:22 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mark25
How are you intending to connect the earth tonearm wires to those sockets? There doesn’t appear to be an earth solder tag from the photo.
Mark
Solder to one of the socket bodies - but I may add a tag anyway, that's what the bottom dimple is there for, to mark placing of relevant hole.


Brian.
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Old 30th January 2004, 12:36 PM   #6
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Here's the finished bodge prior to arm reassembly. Note the "fairy hairs" emerging from the arm behind.
Next is to reassemble the arm with new elastic counterweight decouplers.
Perhaps I'll finish it next week

Brian.

[IMG]SMEConversionPic2[/IMG]
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Old 30th January 2004, 02:51 PM   #7
Mark25 is offline Mark25  United Kingdom
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Looks like a nice job to me, it has to sound much better than the plug that was there before! Did you replace the arm wires Brian? I am going to; it's the main reason for the job, they are too short at the headshell end. Any advice about that proceedure very welcome too.
Thanks again
MArk.
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Old 30th January 2004, 03:36 PM   #8
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Well, my wires are just about the finest, flimsiest there are - Audio Note silver - so anything else has got to be easier.

I stripped out the original wires and used a length of PTFE/Teflon tubing as a carrier - gently teasing the AN wires through - but not quite out - at the other end. Then it was easy-peasy to push the tubing through the groove in the balsa insert until it poked out the other end of the arm tube. Holding the free wires I pulled the tubing all the way out the other end and the job was done.

I'm having trouble soldering at the moment because the fine bit of my iron has lost it's plating so I need to get a replacement before I can continue. Solder is Ersin Multicore LMP 2% silver. Iron is an Antex XS25 fed from a Variac for crude temperature control.

What's the condition of the rubber counterweight decoupling sleeve on your arm? Mine was perished so has to be renewed.

Brian.
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Old 2nd February 2004, 02:20 PM   #9
Mark25 is offline Mark25  United Kingdom
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Hi Brian,
i'm not sure of the exact condition of the rest of the arm, I don't have it to hand until i go to the UK for a weekend to do the job. What thickness would you say your piece of ptfe is? I have new arm wires from Hancock, they are a lot thinner than the originals. I am not sure of the exact construction of the inner arm tube, but was guessing i could maybe solder the new wires to the old ones, singly or all together, and pull the new ones through like that. Maybe i need a rethink on that?
Thanks again
Mark
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Old 2nd February 2004, 03:40 PM   #10
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Hi Mark

the PTFE is 5mm thick. Email me

Using the old wires to pull through the new is the method of first resort. The PTFE tubing trick is for when the old wires have been already removed - by intent or accident

The SME headshell socket looks as if it may contain polystyrene (it is a translucent/transparent plastic) so I would advise use of a heatsink when soldering the new wires to it.

Brian.
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