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|12th July 2013, 10:07 PM||#1|
SL-1200 Tonearm rewire
This is what I started with, a KAB rewire kit (the prepared tonearm wire, fishing wire and damping) and a replacement interconnect with the KAB Technics circuit board. This cable is not on their webpage, it's an all-litz coax of very low capacitance. Call or email Kevin, he will happily make you one.
I storongly suggest getting the wire kit, the wire itself is prepared - it's cut to length, tinned (which is no small feat on litz wire, and worth the price of admission) and it's covered in a graphite coating to help counteract the triboelectric effect of teflon-covered wire.
Remove the platter, rest the turntable on something soft or properly supportive, and remove the base. Take a photo of all the screws near their holes, so you can reference the photo when you re-assemble the table.
This is the bottom of the arm, the screws holding the plastic block (strain relief) need to be removed, and the strain relief as well.
Remove the metal lid.
And here is the stock wiring. It's actually quite nice. De-solder the small wires from the PCB.
Remove the screws from the PCB, and lift gently. The zip-tie needs to be cut, as the ground wire is not going to be removed from the turntable.
Arrange the groundwire out of the way, as it's going to be connected to the table throughout.
You can see here that I got a bit ahead of myself, not removing the resin sub-plinth yet. It's actually easier if you do that first.
The 3 silver screws around the perimeter of the arm hold it in. Remove those and it will easily slide out.
The arm assembly removed.
Remove these screws.
Pull out the headshell collar, but don't pull out the wires!
De-solder the wires, and place the insulators aside.
I attached (soldered) the new wire to the old. Gently, without forcing anything, you can fish the new wire through the whole assembly using the old to pull it through.
When the new wire is through, unsolder the old wire and discard. (Ignore the color difference from the previous photo.)
Once all the wires are through replace the insulators,
And re-install the collar. This is very fiddly to solder.
Cut a few strips of the Cotton and gently stuff down the armtube.
The wires need to be re-attached on the base.
Here are all the wires, and the old ground wire. That, like the ground that goes out with the RCA leads remains stock.
Lay the groundlead back in it's place, the bend of the wire will naturally find it's home again...
Attach the PCB in place of the old.
Attach the new wires to the new board.
This is a great time to check continuity with your meter. If it's all good, start to re-assemble the table.
I needed to improvise a strain relief, as the new cable will not fit through the original plastic block.
And it's done!
Illustrated Build Guides - Pass F4 - Pass B1 - Pass F5 - Pearl 2 - O2 HPA - Hagerman Bugle 2 - Pass Aleph J - Me at BA '13 -Pass F5Turbo - BA-3 Amp - BA-3 Preamp
Last edited by 6L6; 12th July 2013 at 11:24 PM.
|17th September 2013, 02:52 PM||#6|
Bluewater - Fixed.
Murphy - I can't believe how good it sounds. I'm totally flabbergasted, it's like somebody took a switch labeled 'awesome' and turned it on.
The stock wiring in all but the Mk.5 tonearms has an issue where the insulation corrodes the plating of the wire, so the difference in sound is the difference from corroded stranded wire to clean litz. Needles to say there is a marked improvement.
|7th May 2014, 12:44 PM||#8|
It looks like I'm going to dig into this again, my next phono stage project (SY's 'His Master's Noise) uses a balanced configuration. I'm a little bummed to have to disturb this mod, it sounds fantastic.
Photos to be posted once there's progress.
|11th May 2015, 04:58 PM||#10|
Join Date: Apr 2010
Excellent guide - thanks!
I have to confess that almost everything went wrong when I did this last night. First, the internal tonearm ground wire broke in half when I was disassembling the arm (I ended up reusing the old blue tonearm wire in its place). And when I pulled the headshell collar off, I pulled the wires up into the gimbal, which meant I had to disassemble the entire arm/wand and fish everything through. The upside was that I got to give the tonearm assembly a thorough cleaning and was able to stuff cotton in both ends of the arm wand.
Some lessons learned (FWIW) for anyone attempting this:
1) You might want to solder the new tonearm wires to the old (to pull through the assembly) before you remove the headshell collar.
2) Use an alligator clip (or whatever else you've got lying around) as a heatsink on the headshell pins when desoldering/soldering the tonearm wires to the headshell (attach the clip right next to the white plastic) - the pins are spring loaded and you don't to ruin the springs or to have solder flowing back into the white plastic part of the headshell (which causes the pins to get stuck in place).
3) If you have a solder bulb/sucker, I would suck the solder off the headshell pins when desoldering the old wires. This will help prevent excess solder from locking the pins in place and make it easier for you to place the new wires for soldering. I didn't do this and I wish I had - soldering those four tonearm wires took me forever and ended up much messier than I would have liked.
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