Technics SL-1100 good for project? - diyAudio
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Old 10th July 2013, 03:48 PM   #1
batsong is offline batsong  United States
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Default Technics SL-1100 good for project?

Hi. The Technics 1100 is interesting because it shares the drive unit from the first SP-10, seems to have a heavier platter than a SL-1200 and has the removable armboard. Other than that, would this table be a good candidate for a nice plinth, other arms/carts and provide a nice contrast to belt and idler drives as an example of a 70's direct drive Japanese design?
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Old 11th July 2013, 02:57 AM   #2
BrianL is offline BrianL  United States
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I don't believe it shares the same drive. As far as I know all SP-10s used PLL-based speed control that was referenced to a quartz oscillator. The SL-110/1100 does not seem to work that way. I've never seen a schematic but I've had one since 1974, and have been inside it; all indications are that it is some sort of open-loop design.
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Last edited by BrianL; 11th July 2013 at 02:59 AM.
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Old 11th July 2013, 05:03 AM   #3
batsong is offline batsong  United States
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Brian! Thanks for replying...food for thought...
Since you've had a 1100 a long time, do you think it would benefit from mounting in a high mass plinth? What arms/carts have been especially successful in your opinion? Any tricks or tweaks that in your estimation would make this table real winner?
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Old 12th July 2013, 06:47 AM   #4
batsong is offline batsong  United States
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Unless I am mistaken, the one advantage of the SP-10 Mk2 over the first one is the quartz control. Looking at a SP-10 Mk1 side by side with my 1100, they appear to have the same motor, and their schematics are similar.
This 1100 seems to be locked in solidly. It just needed to be oiled. I'm running 1.5g on the cart with the stock arm and suffering no speed fluctuations.
The midrange is scooped. Lots of treble. It sounds like disco. With a heavy plinth, some arm/cart changes and a new mat, this table will be really cool.
It is really easy to listen to--'musical' (like a 'drinkable' bottle of wine). Compared to my TD-124, there is just more to the 124, but they do things differently and the Technics is running the stock arm which looks like a prop from Star Trek.
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Old 13th July 2013, 02:54 AM   #5
BrianL is offline BrianL  United States
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My Technics table had the arm replaced a few years after I purchased it as the stock arm was a club. The 'new' arm, a unipivot design, met with a mishap when a toddler bumped the dustcover - never did like the set-on-top non-hinged dust cover. It hasn't been used since then. When I was using it, I coated the underside of the platter with silicone rubber to dampen it and used a Sorbothane mat. Both improved sonics.

I never found the speed control to be rock solid as measured by the neon strobe light. Speed tended to wander slowly up and down by a small amount. I'm not sure that sort of thing would be audible and I never investigated in detail.
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Old 13th July 2013, 04:20 AM   #6
batsong is offline batsong  United States
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Brian. Sorry to hear about your mishap. An unhinged dust cover once destroyed a cantilever of mine.
The bottom pan does resonate on my 1100. It will eventually be left off with the new plinth design. Your silicone rubber idea for the underside of the platter is a good one, this way the balance of the platter less likely to be upset as opposed to using modeling clay, for an example.
My speed control is fine after a few good oilings. The manual say 3-4 drops, but this one took a lot more. If I wait until the table is nice and warmed up to set the speed using the strobe, it usually stays. I'm sure you do this too. My trick is when I turn it on the next time, I resist the urge to adjust the speed as will be slightly off until it warms up completely. After that, it seems to be a set 'n forget type of thing.
The arm is indeed very strange, but I like it. I think it's growing on me.

Last edited by batsong; 13th July 2013 at 04:22 AM.
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Old 29th July 2013, 02:22 AM   #7
Sprags is offline Sprags  United States
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I just acquired an SL1100 and have posted questions about replacing the Tonearm. Mine still has the original...EPA-100 if I'm not mistaken. It seems like its working just fine. I was lucky enough to have found this one with the base and arm board with no defects. No strobe either. I had to sand some dirt or corrosion off the strobe dots. And the cover had a groove on the inside of the top surface...obviously from being knocked off the base while the platter was spinning. I was able to sand and polish the groove out and surprisingly it has no chips or cracks in it....though it does have swirls but nothing out of the ordinary for a 40 year old turntable.

Mine seems stable as far as speed goes...and I haven't done anything more that clean it up and polish it.

I'd really like advice on swapping out the Tonearm to perhaps a better design or more modern or whatever ...

Blake
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Old 29th July 2013, 02:44 AM   #8
batsong is offline batsong  United States
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I like the stock arm. I'm keeping it in the 'rotation'.
Seems like it would be a snap to make other armboards, and switching arms would be easy enough.
There is the popular choice of the SME III which I will soon try, along with a high compliance cart which it needs...Another cool idea might be a Audio Technica At1100 arm.

Blake, what cartridges do you think you might want to try?

-Gabe
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Old 29th July 2013, 03:45 AM   #9
Shaun is offline Shaun  South Africa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sprags View Post
I just acquired an SL1100 and have posted questions about replacing the Tonearm. Mine still has the original...EPA-100 if I'm not mistaken.
Ah, yes! Total piece of junk! Chuck it my way when you replace it, please .

Jokes aside, if it is the one below, you have hit the jackpot, my friend.

Click the image to open in full size.

I, too, have an SL-1100 for a project. Drop-kicked that ugly clunker of an arm and replaced it with an Acos Lustre. I don't know if the original EPA-110 is bad at all; I just could not stand the looks of it. If anyone wants it, I'd be happy to ship it to you at your cost.

Digressing somewhat: I'm not quite happy with the Acos Lustre, though it's been months since I played vinyl. I'm missing the lateral balance weight, and I'm skeptical about the goodness of the on-the-fly VTA clamping mechanism (sorry for drifting OT).
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Old 29th July 2013, 04:06 AM   #10
Sprags is offline Sprags  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batsong View Post
I like the stock arm. I'm keeping it in the 'rotation'.
Seems like it would be a snap to make other armboards, and switching arms would be easy enough.
There is the popular choice of the SME III which I will soon try, along with a high compliance cart which it needs...Another cool idea might be a Audio Technica At1100 arm.

Blake, what cartridges do you think you might want to try?

-Gabe
Thanks for asking...though to be honest I haven't given it much thought. It has a Shure V15T3, which is what I had on my Yamaha turntable I bought in 1977.

I'd like to either build or buy a decent tube phono preamp and if I can find one that works well with MC cartridges I'd like to try one out...though to be honest ill need to some research on one I'd like.

I was hoping to keep my costs low but everything is relative.

Back before I found the SL-1100 I was considering either a Thorens, though which one I don't know, or an SL-1200. The more I play this LP's with this turntable the more I like it. Even with the cheap ART DJpreII phono preamp it doesn't sound bad with the rest of my tube stuff.

My main justification to buying a turntable was the 400 or so LP's I have. Unfortunately roughly 350 were damaged in a flood so to be honest I'm not really sure I want to hang onto this turntable and spend money upgrading it. Though the few LPs I have sure sound far better than the identical CD's, other than the clicks and pops. I'm debating on whether they are tolerable for the overall better sound quality.

I still think I'd like to find a decent more modern Tonearm for a reasonable price.

Blake
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