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Old 28th October 2013, 12:39 AM   #961
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lexx21:
Yes you can get xyz stages, but finding one the size you want is not so easy. I own a few along with a rotational stage. If you buy a Newport xyz other similar type stage new it will cost you big bucks. I found several at a reasonable price on ebay but others may not want to spend that much money. I could tell some eyebrows raised when I mentioned $70 tungsten carbide rod !!!

There are a couple of different type height gages that could serve as the main support for this arm plus give you a digital readout to boot. Having the tools and skill to alter this tool into an arm is another story.

Joe
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Old 28th October 2013, 12:49 AM   #962
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Tomatamot:

Somehow I don't think that xy table is Linn friendly -Ha,Ha,Ha.

Joe
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Old 28th October 2013, 04:47 AM   #963
lexx21 is offline lexx21  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hottattoo View Post
lexx21:
Yes you can get xyz stages, but finding one the size you want is not so easy. I own a few along with a rotational stage. If you buy a Newport xyz other similar type stage new it will cost you big bucks. I found several at a reasonable price on ebay but others may not want to spend that much money. I could tell some eyebrows raised when I mentioned $70 tungsten carbide rod !!!

There are a couple of different type height gages that could serve as the main support for this arm plus give you a digital readout to boot. Having the tools and skill to alter this tool into an arm is another story.

Joe
Actually I was thinking more along the lines of something from Hong Kong, not a Newport.
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Old 28th October 2013, 06:11 AM   #964
Zene is offline Zene  United States
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Colin ... wheel spacing sounds more than reasonable, thx.

Joe ... Are there any cheap accurate inside spacers I can use to set my track gauge accurately? Be about 15mm. Drill guides that big can be spendy. Would need several. Track would be held in place and hard epoxied.

Zene
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Old 28th October 2013, 01:32 PM   #965
kffern is offline kffern  Australia
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Hi,
I decided to polish my bearings, 10 x 3 x 4mm open. I used a dremel with a cotton buff and smooth buffing compound. Washed it out in alcohol. They must have had a bit of oil in them because they then ran really fast with a small spin.

The arm now wouldn't track more than a few turns. I spent 2 evenings trying different weights, cable dressing but had the same problem. I cleaned them again and blew them clean with compressed air and still the same problem. I then tried some very thin (hair clipper) oil and still the same problem.

Have I damaged them?

What bearings are you using? What do you clean them with and are they dry?
Colin was using sealed bearings initially but I thought open were recommended later.

kffern
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Old 28th October 2013, 02:15 PM   #966
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Zene:

The company " MSC " is a very large machinery supply company and they have bushings made of different material. I think you can still order their gigantic catalog for free.

Joe
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Old 28th October 2013, 02:21 PM   #967
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Zene:

I just checked ebay under " 15mm mm bushing " and they have them made out of all different materials.

Joe
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Old 28th October 2013, 05:07 PM   #968
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Location: Calgary on the Bow
Quote:
Originally Posted by kffern View Post
Hi,
I decided to polish my bearings, 10 x 3 x 4mm open. I used a dremel with a cotton buff and smooth buffing compound. Washed it out in alcohol. They must have had a bit of oil in them because they then ran really fast with a small spin.

The arm now wouldn't track more than a few turns. I spent 2 evenings trying different weights, cable dressing but had the same problem. I cleaned them again and blew them clean with compressed air and still the same problem. I then tried some very thin (hair clipper) oil and still the same problem.

Have I damaged them?

What bearings are you using? What do you clean them with and are they dry?
Colin was using sealed bearings initially but I thought open were recommended later.

kffern
likely that you have damaged the bearings yes. you cannot use compressed air to spin bearings as most are not meant for that speed. Get a new set of bearings and you should be good to go don't spin them up with the
Dremel either when you smooth the edges. Best regards Moray James.
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Old 28th October 2013, 05:39 PM   #969
bgruhn is offline bgruhn  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moray james View Post
likely that you have damaged the bearings yes. you cannot use compressed air to spin bearings as most are not meant for that speed. Get a new set of bearings and you should be good to go don't spin them up with the
Dremel either when you smooth the edges. Best regards Moray James.
Hi Moray,
I guess I've been doing it all wrong for years. Conventional wisdom says you are right. BUT I have yet to damage a bearing with compressed air spinning.

Before I would discard those bearings I would clean them again a couple of times and dry them. Sure, spin them up again, if they are broken, it will not break them more for all useful purposes. I am very suspicious of the solvent not doing a really good job. I use acetone, running them by hand fully immersed followed by an additional rinsing in acetone. Next comes the oil. The only hair clipper oil I'm familiar with is closer to SAE 15 or 20. I use clock oil about #5 weight. Then between the inner race and the outre race, in the gap, on the back end of a sewing needle, pick up a drop and apply it. Then rotate the races relative to each other, by hand and quite a few full rotations to be sure the balls and races are fully coated. Then let us know how you made out, PLEASE.

This brings back a question I want explained. Why does CANTUS work only with dry clean bearings and our 4 bearings carriage seem to work only on lubricated ones. Something is fishy here.

Rgds,


Bill
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Old 28th October 2013, 06:47 PM   #970
AuroraB is offline AuroraB  Norway
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Location: Norway, -north of the moral circle..
Here's asource for parts..... not particularly cheap, but still - readily available :-)

http://www.edmundoptics.com/optomech...lated-products

http://www.edmundoptics.com/optomech...t-holders/3421
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