I am wondering what the life span of the "holes in tape" type slide would be. Has any one a technique to drill the holes? Bit concerned that if i glue it up, i can get back in to replace tape.
Also, can i use my shop compressor with a tank upstairs? Not worried about noise but wondering about the small amount of oil in the air.
Kind regards,
Also, can i use my shop compressor with a tank upstairs? Not worried about noise but wondering about the small amount of oil in the air.
Kind regards,
I have built a terminator clone and the technique is to drill with a 3mm drill bit most of the way through the aluminum section and then using the very fine 0.3mm drill bit from Ebay or from herehttp://www.nairnshire-modelling-supplies.co.uk/03mm-hss-drill-bit-bulk-pack-p-1576.html to drill the rest of the way through.
But buy as many of the 0.3mm drill bits as you can afford you maybe lucky and one bit can drill all the holes required, but its worth being prepared if the luck isn't with you.
But buy as many of the 0.3mm drill bits as you can afford you maybe lucky and one bit can drill all the holes required, but its worth being prepared if the luck isn't with you.
I have ordered the drill bits, my press is very cheap and the stop it not really very effective, the drill tends not to stop at correct depth. I will give it ago tho.
Still interested in experiances with the lifespan of tape with holes.
Moko, love to see how you made the VTA and level adjustments. Mine is a bunch of angle with slides drilled and files out. I can guarantee there is a better way.
I might make this one and then have a machinist improve it.....
or buy a lathe.....
Still interested in experiances with the lifespan of tape with holes.
Moko, love to see how you made the VTA and level adjustments. Mine is a bunch of angle with slides drilled and files out. I can guarantee there is a better way.
I might make this one and then have a machinist improve it.....
or buy a lathe.....
Have a look here http://www.lencoheaven.net/forum/index.php?topic=12171.0
I have no access to a lathe so all the bits have been made with a dremel drill press, files, JB Weld glue...difficult but it can be done.
Unfortunately I have been a bit distracted lately and haven't got round to finishing the tonearm part yet, but the pump & carrier parts all seem to work well and hopefully with a machinist friend it should all be complete in the next few weeks.
I have no access to a lathe so all the bits have been made with a dremel drill press, files, JB Weld glue...difficult but it can be done.
Unfortunately I have been a bit distracted lately and haven't got round to finishing the tonearm part yet, but the pump & carrier parts all seem to work well and hopefully with a machinist friend it should all be complete in the next few weeks.
Hi Stefanoo,
FYI,
My experience(-s) is, yes.
I did the classic little arm 31cm.
And now a DIM Terminator 45cm with 2x22 holes 0,3mm, ready for a (second) 16" TT air bearing (in DIM).
Believe me, I am in (musical) "Paradise" (with riaa V-caps, you know)....
Allez, salukes ... let's play music.
Karel
(Btw, drilling holes 0,3mm is very very easy)
Thanks for the encouragement.
Moko, I have gone down the same road, files and drill press. I had an epiphany last night. I want to use the bearings, collets, rods for a cnc machine for the VTA. Should be easy to adjust with a finely threaded rod and it would run parallel accurately.
Compared to buying a terminator, I would be surprised if making one cost 10%.
Moko, I have gone down the same road, files and drill press. I had an epiphany last night. I want to use the bearings, collets, rods for a cnc machine for the VTA. Should be easy to adjust with a finely threaded rod and it would run parallel accurately.
Compared to buying a terminator, I would be surprised if making one cost 10%.
Yeah I know I know....well for me making mechanical part will just be a nightmare but I am assuming if you have tools and experience in making mechanical parts it shouldn't be that hard!!
Btw I am wondering since no one has ever replied to my thread and I don't know why...how do you like your new caps?
Hi Stefanoo,
(sorry for high jack the thread, sorry)
1) I think, I replied in my answer overhead (& other messages).
2) You don't answer my last PM to my "quid" about the tuning V-caps.
& again, I like the new V-caps ... it's heavenly music in Paradise...
Allez, salukes.
Karel
FYI (sorry to high jack again this thread .. it's not my style)
See my PM : 16 mars 2013/02.24PM
See (c.f.r. your "strong promise") your PM : 17 mars 2013/ 2.58AM
(next replay via PM ... please)
In regards to drilling the .3mm holes, I found it best not to drill a pilot hole as that made the tip of the bit extremely hard to centre and easy to break. Most of the holes were on the side if the pilot hole. Without pilot hole I managed 8 holes per bit. Biggest danger was getting stuck with the bit. Happened twice. Hurt!!!!
Incredibly small holes
Incredibly small holes
Just a thought about drilling air holes.
To drill a fixed depth for the 3.0mm bit,
Run the 3.00mm bit through a piece of dowel, shorten the dowel until the appropriatte length of drill bit is showing out the bottom.
When drilling the dowel will bottom out at the correct depth.
I'm drilling 4mm holes right thought the ali, and filling with epoxy resin.
Then I'm drilling the 0.3mm holes through the epoxy.
If countersinking into the epoxy first (3.00mm) grind a sharp point (in and gently press into the center of the counter sink, this will help to center the 0.3mm bit
To drill a fixed depth for the 3.0mm bit,
Run the 3.00mm bit through a piece of dowel, shorten the dowel until the appropriatte length of drill bit is showing out the bottom.
When drilling the dowel will bottom out at the correct depth.
I'm drilling 4mm holes right thought the ali, and filling with epoxy resin.
Then I'm drilling the 0.3mm holes through the epoxy.
If countersinking into the epoxy first (3.00mm) grind a sharp point (in and gently press into the center of the counter sink, this will help to center the 0.3mm bit
Laser cutting the holes leave a recast layer which eventually will 'crumble' away from the hole.
Seems to me the way way to get the most precise sized hole is to drill it to 0.001 to 0.002 inches undersized and then ream it to the exact size needed or maybe 0.0001 oversize to make installing the mating pin, spindle, shaft, etc. fit nice a snug but still have some room to spin.
Are you suggesting reaming the .3mm holes???
I am guessing you are talking about making a circular bearing slide. I am about to attempt to bore an Aluminium block to a friction fit and then lap it out to about 50 microns either side. I have some 20mm carbon fible tube that seems to be of very high tolerance. My only concern is boring a long enough section without getting a taper or other unpleasant stuff. i will let you know how it goes.
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