New DIY TT... almost finished...pics

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I'm almost done my new TT, had it set up for first time to take measurements and thought I may as well take some pics. I won't go into full detail yet, too busy working on it.

The plinth is made of layers of mdf, delrin and baltic birch ply. It is filled with two bags of no.2 lead shot, sand and linseed oil. I used micrometer heads for levelling.

The platter is a rek-o-kut k-33h. I polished the spindle and bearing housing. The four holes in the platter are threaded to accept brass weights, still waiting on those and a ceramic ball and teflon thrust plate. The pic shows it dirty from handling.

The motor is an inverted pabst, again from a rek-o-kut. I really like this motor, very quiet, it's overbuilt, inverted design (the can spins, not the armature) creates a nice flywheel effect. A micrometer head allows for tilt adjustment. The case is made of 4" PVC pipe and (tempararily) HDF, alluminium top and bottom plate are in the works.

The arm board in the pic has yet to be painted, layered delrin and mdf. A Roksan tabriz arm is mounted for now, my ongoing Ladegaard project is in it's fourth stage of revision. I am designing an arm board that will allow the use of both arms.

The likeness to a Teres is totally unintentional, form followed function and it ended looking like that. The finish is by no means perfect, looking close one can tell the layers are there in places, a minor disappointment, I had limited time to work on this and will refinish it in spring when the weather is more accomodating.

Hope you guys like it. I can't wait to hear what it can do.

Bart G.
 

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Great Work!

Almost exactly what I have been playing with - a Rek-O-Kut K-12 platter (mine is filled
with lead+oil). Unfortunately, that's all I've got so far. The plinth I am working on is triangular - I plan to mount 3 motors, one at each corner, and have the air-bearing arm stand off
on the back side.

Talking about motors, if you want to go the DC motor route, there's a guy on eBay who sells
surplus maxon motors. He has the motors used in the Teres for $9 each! You just tell
him the part number of the maxon motor (easy to look up from the online catalog) and he probably has'em. I've been working out a DC voltage controller
to drive three motors taking a lot of hints from the Teres project.

Let us know how it sounds!

Cheers -

P

ps: the guy on eBay who sells surplus Maxon motors is SEQUOIAGP@aol.com
No affiliation of mine (apart from having bought good motors from him).
 
Merjin:

the platter came with the bearing. It's a nice robust, well polished bearing with a spiral channel cut in the shaft to bring oil to the top. They seem to appear on ebay quite often as complete turntables marked K-33 or N-33. Previously I used a bearing and platter from a Thorens TD-160, good quality but too small to add a heavy weight platter to without stress or worry. Good luck in your search.
 
Sorry for misspelling your name Merijn

No problem Illusus, even in my own language people ar spelling my name often wrong...

In my case, the reason for looking for another platter with bearing is also a TD160, but in my case the spindle has a really bad scratch on the bearingball. It is not mooving freely anymore and produces a lot of noise.

Rebuilding would be an option, but a homebrew TT is much more appealing :)

Since I have not been searching this forum, I'll start with that, but youve inspired me to proceed!
 
diyAudio Senior Member
Joined 2002
Hi,

but in my case the spindle has a really bad scratch on the bearingball. It is not mooving freely anymore and produces a lot of noise.

Have you tried looking for a replacement part?

Back when I had a 160 I added PTFE particles suspended in oil to the bearing assembly. (Slick 2000 as used for car engines)
It ran much better after that.

Cheers,;)
 
Have been thinking of Slick 2000. But my Fiat Panda doesn't need it anymore after 20 years :)

Now I'll just have to try, I mean that's tweaking all about, right?

Illusus:
I really appreciate your willingness (hope this is ok english)! But I think the costs of shipping it to Europe would be pretty expensive, I guess. There have to be a good Thorens on this side of the globe, they are German made... I'll start E-baying right away.

Have to go to college now,
 
Thank you, I am very flattered. In turn... I couldn't have done this without the inspiration the people that take their time to describe and show their projects provide.
The turntable is up and running, although not entirely completed, and sounds great. I have not been able to compare it to any other turntables other than what I have owned, a Thorens td 150,160 and 320, a Marantz 6700, and a couple DIYs based on the 160's bearing/platter assembly. Out of all these it is the quietest, backgroung wise. It brings out a lot of detail I have never heard before in my music, I have been especially amazed at how much information I have been missing on Pink Floyd's "the wall", I've listened to all four sides eight times since first set up. The imaging is great, all sounds and instruments have their own, definite space, something I have not heard clearly before. Bass is taught and well defined, I always complained to myself about the thinness of bass from my vinyl playback untill now. Before, in order to get deep bass I'd lower VTA and increase VTF which resulted in muddy bass and loss of detail. Not liking that sound I just got used to the thin sound. This set up has a very nice tonal balance.
All is not perfect though(I am my worst critic). The paint I used for the armboard seems to have put it ~1deg vertical out of alignment with the platter, I'll take it off and sand the paint off as soon as I can stop listening. The tape I am using as a belt leaves a residue on the motor spindle(I just now thought of turning it inside out, laff). Initially, I forgot to drill holes in the base of the motor pod for air flow, I was shocked by how hot it got. The ceramic bearing and teflon thrust plate still has not arrived, I also ordered a delrin thrust plate for comparison. Lastly, I would like to machine the micrometer shafts to have cone ends, but for now I found some acorn stainless steel acorn nuts that snuggly fit the ends of the shafts.
That's all I can think of for now.
 
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