guys here is why i asked about the weight. to get it balanced with the ortofon cartridge it's at the end of the stub. i've read on a number of turntable setup posts that it's best to have the correct weight as close to the pivot as you can.
so if thats true this weight out at the end will cause a issue.
http://
so if thats true this weight out at the end will cause a issue.
http://
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
ok thanks for that thought .i wonder if what makes a difference is the cartridge and where they mount in the headshell?
in the past before the rewire i had the ortofon mc10 low out mc mounted and it was about 3 to 4 mm back farther then the ortfon 2m red now. the 2 m is a longer cartridge.
it tested the arm tonight after work with flatwashers and i found i would need about 130gram weight .
ok i just checked the mc10 booklet and 7g weight now the 2m is 7.2 gram so thats not it.
so must be the difference in the two and where they mount.
or would removing the paint from the arm drop the arm mass enough to cause as balance issue?
in the past before the rewire i had the ortofon mc10 low out mc mounted and it was about 3 to 4 mm back farther then the ortfon 2m red now. the 2 m is a longer cartridge.
it tested the arm tonight after work with flatwashers and i found i would need about 130gram weight .
ok i just checked the mc10 booklet and 7g weight now the 2m is 7.2 gram so thats not it.
so must be the difference in the two and where they mount.
or would removing the paint from the arm drop the arm mass enough to cause as balance issue?
It's certainly going to make the tube lighter isn't it? Yes, it does effect where the weight sits. The paint doesn't weigh much but it does weigh something.
I guess that yes, where the cart sits will alter where the weight sits, obviously, but to be honest I've never worried much about such things.
i know i may be nitt picking here but you know how it goes. i'm just after the best and most i can get out of this arm.
i am getting the fellow from audioorigami to make me a new 125 gram brass weight.
the visual appeal here will be stunning. i can't wait.
a little update today
i received the audio origami 125g weight today. awesome work by jonnie. came in a black draw string bag. the weight , set screw, hex key, audio origami high quality badge.
i'm very glad he posted on my rewire post or i would not have found his web site.
this addition makes my arm look like a million bucks. i'm very happy.
http://
i received the audio origami 125g weight today. awesome work by jonnie. came in a black draw string bag. the weight , set screw, hex key, audio origami high quality badge.
i'm very glad he posted on my rewire post or i would not have found his web site.
this addition makes my arm look like a million bucks. i'm very happy.
http://
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Hi,
had my old Technics SL-3310, that I got from ebay for 15€, modified and set up with my Rega RB300, which I had laying around unused for years.
Modded the Rega with new internal wiring, which is made from silk-spun fine copper wire, 10*0.050mm. The wire were sent to me as free sample. Probabely could even have got silver wire, but since I´m a technical person I rather rely on practical reasoning than voodoo.
Two strands were twisted together to achieve a low enough resistance, since the cabling should not reduce the output of low output MC pickups. So its a compromise between thinness and flexibility against signal transmission quality.
Each twisted wire pair got a pickup-pin connector type FK20SL-08V. This is a single female crimp contact, 0.8µm gold-plated, for AWG24-20, made by FCT.
I´m quite sure that it matches, probabely surpasses boutique-priced Cardas parts or similar in quality and handling.
The wires were soldered to the contacts and each of the four got a piece of differently coloured heatshrink tubing. The wires enter the Arm tube through the rubber grommit, which I resused. Within the arm tube the two wires of each channel are twisted together. The twisting results in less noise, especially with an differential input phono stage. Too, I run each channel through two straws, that separate and fix the wires. Maybe that this is a bit over, but I find it omehow weird, even amusing to see cabling tweaks with terribly expensive wires, that don´t take care of how the wires run through the arm zube itself. No consistency in noise- and impedance performance and channel separation, but the sound is of course always much better than ever
Since the tonearm is be mounted fixed, I run the wires to the putput connectors, which are unbalanced RCA and balanced Fisher connectors in parallel, so You can choose the cabling to the phono stage depending on the input of the phono stage. just leave the unused connectors open.
As pickup I run a modified Denon103 which I got as ´payment´ for a development. Unfortunately this pickup required a heavier counterweight.
Lucky me I made a deal with another DIYer, whom I helped in the design of his phono stage and who was able to turn a counterweight.
The counterweight weighs 133gr is turned from INOX steel, 40mm in OD and has a excentrical bore for the tonearm stub. I reused the O-rings of the original weight.
Last modifcation was the dampening of the tracking force spring with fine pieces of cotton batting.
And this is how it looks:
jauu
Calvin
had my old Technics SL-3310, that I got from ebay for 15€, modified and set up with my Rega RB300, which I had laying around unused for years.
Modded the Rega with new internal wiring, which is made from silk-spun fine copper wire, 10*0.050mm. The wire were sent to me as free sample. Probabely could even have got silver wire, but since I´m a technical person I rather rely on practical reasoning than voodoo.
Two strands were twisted together to achieve a low enough resistance, since the cabling should not reduce the output of low output MC pickups. So its a compromise between thinness and flexibility against signal transmission quality.
Each twisted wire pair got a pickup-pin connector type FK20SL-08V. This is a single female crimp contact, 0.8µm gold-plated, for AWG24-20, made by FCT.
I´m quite sure that it matches, probabely surpasses boutique-priced Cardas parts or similar in quality and handling.
The wires were soldered to the contacts and each of the four got a piece of differently coloured heatshrink tubing. The wires enter the Arm tube through the rubber grommit, which I resused. Within the arm tube the two wires of each channel are twisted together. The twisting results in less noise, especially with an differential input phono stage. Too, I run each channel through two straws, that separate and fix the wires. Maybe that this is a bit over, but I find it omehow weird, even amusing to see cabling tweaks with terribly expensive wires, that don´t take care of how the wires run through the arm zube itself. No consistency in noise- and impedance performance and channel separation, but the sound is of course always much better than ever
Since the tonearm is be mounted fixed, I run the wires to the putput connectors, which are unbalanced RCA and balanced Fisher connectors in parallel, so You can choose the cabling to the phono stage depending on the input of the phono stage. just leave the unused connectors open.
As pickup I run a modified Denon103 which I got as ´payment´ for a development. Unfortunately this pickup required a heavier counterweight.
Lucky me I made a deal with another DIYer, whom I helped in the design of his phono stage and who was able to turn a counterweight.
The counterweight weighs 133gr is turned from INOX steel, 40mm in OD and has a excentrical bore for the tonearm stub. I reused the O-rings of the original weight.
Last modifcation was the dampening of the tracking force spring with fine pieces of cotton batting.
And this is how it looks:
jauu
Calvin
Attachments
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These pics are not mine but I had the same problem after my rewire. I almost bought a new tonearm because the distortion and crosstalk drove me up the wall. Thank god for this person. Obviously don't use a toothpick but a REPLACEMENT LEAD FOR MECHANICAL CARPENTER PENCIL or anything flat to measure both sides. It has to do with the way you tighten everthing back up.
BEFORE:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
AFTER:
I think the guy who posted these pics paid around $300 for this rb600 with a rewire!! I bet you anything the original owner had the same problem I did and couldn't figure it out and sold it..
Thanks MIGKILLER for sharing my pics. I was to lazy to get my machinist rule to measure and eneded up using the wood. Not a big deal.
Now, to whom it may concern,
I did measure (using a micrometer, not a vernier caliper) the thickness of the headshell to make sure it is even. I am not stupid. The armboard, whis is the orinal armboard was also measured.
I couldn't find my pencils that's why I "TRIED" using a toothpick. MIGKILLER posted before and after pics. Hey, to each his own. It worked for me, it can work for others. I did my best and it paid off.
If the pictures are of no use, no reason for insult. A TOOTHPICK, REALLY?
Read before you speak. BEFORE...AFTER pics?
Yes, there was an issue with the arm that's why the previous owner sold it. I took that thing apart and checked all the problems and FIXED it.
BTW, I no longer have the TD 125 Mk2. Replaced it with a SOTA Comet and very pleased with what I can afford.
NO NEED TO TALK **** ABOUT OTHER PEOPLE'S WORK
No wonder a lot of members get annoyed.
hey matt
yes i downloaded it from a uk based site but can't remember the name.
i'll have a look for the sheet and let you know.
thanks
gordie
Hope this helps
I think it was this website:
http://www.audiomods.co.uk/images/regarb300destructed.jpg
Greez
SigFire
I think it was this website:
http://www.audiomods.co.uk/images/regarb300destructed.jpg
Greez
SigFire
yes thats the one , thank you sigfire for posting this link.
saves me some work and helps matt .
good stuff.
ps sorry i haven't posted any updates in my arm rewire but i've been loving the mods so much that every night i spend 3 to 5 hours listening .
this path i took was the best improvement and shock as how good it turned out.
worth every hour of work and every dollar it cost.
i love the rewire upgrade.
saves me some work and helps matt .
good stuff.
ps sorry i haven't posted any updates in my arm rewire but i've been loving the mods so much that every night i spend 3 to 5 hours listening .
this path i took was the best improvement and shock as how good it turned out.
worth every hour of work and every dollar it cost.
i love the rewire upgrade.
Hi Guys, don't if anyone is still following this thread after 3 years ... but i have a question about Rega tone arm and balanced operation.
I've just finished building my new balanced phone stage (design by Forum member polyphase). My main turntable (customised Lenco with MG-1 air bearing arm) is being serviced right now so i got my old old table out of mothballs - an AR turntable with Rega RB300arm. The new phono amp has 3.5mm TRS jacks, so i desoldered the RCA plugs from the old table and replaced them with 3.5mm TRS plugs.
Plug in right channel - and I hear music. Plug in left channel - the right channel goes to pot, as if its being severely overloaded. Nothing coming out of left channel. I've tried to trouble shoot with my good fiend Google, I have found a thread on Auidogon talking about the need to re-wire Rega arms before you can use the in balanced mode. So - I am hoping that the issues I am hearing are due to arm wiring, not because I have screwed up my phono amp.
Right now, I am playing The Angry Young Them - mono press. I can plug the right channel (red/green wires) from the turntable into either input of the pre-amp and get music, so both channels of the pre-amp work OK. As soon as I plug in left channel (white/blue wires) from the turntable then it goes to crap. So seems like the pre-amp is working. So is it correct - I need to modify the rega for balanced operation? Other options are:
1. Play mono records and listen to one speaker
2. Wait for the Lenco to come back.
Any thought? Thanks guys.
I've just finished building my new balanced phone stage (design by Forum member polyphase). My main turntable (customised Lenco with MG-1 air bearing arm) is being serviced right now so i got my old old table out of mothballs - an AR turntable with Rega RB300arm. The new phono amp has 3.5mm TRS jacks, so i desoldered the RCA plugs from the old table and replaced them with 3.5mm TRS plugs.
Plug in right channel - and I hear music. Plug in left channel - the right channel goes to pot, as if its being severely overloaded. Nothing coming out of left channel. I've tried to trouble shoot with my good fiend Google, I have found a thread on Auidogon talking about the need to re-wire Rega arms before you can use the in balanced mode. So - I am hoping that the issues I am hearing are due to arm wiring, not because I have screwed up my phono amp.
Right now, I am playing The Angry Young Them - mono press. I can plug the right channel (red/green wires) from the turntable into either input of the pre-amp and get music, so both channels of the pre-amp work OK. As soon as I plug in left channel (white/blue wires) from the turntable then it goes to crap. So seems like the pre-amp is working. So is it correct - I need to modify the rega for balanced operation? Other options are:
1. Play mono records and listen to one speaker
2. Wait for the Lenco to come back.
Any thought? Thanks guys.
Hi Andrew thanks for getting back to me, all good questions that I should have checked for myself.
1. Ive just checked for connection between channels with my DVM. Does not appear to be any connection.
2. The sleeve is not connected to anything. Cartridge cables go to tip and ring, and from the jack the signal goes to +ve and -ve inputs but the sleeve tag on the input jack is not connected to anything.
3. Good question. I have to go to work tomorrow so I have shut down for the night (hey its 10pm here). I will check this again tomorrow.
Thanks again Andrew. I listened to Sgt Pepper mono tonight, if I dont get this sorted I guess that I can listen to the rest of my Beatles mono box while I wait for my Lenco!
Regards,
Hazard
Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
You most definitely need to modify the 'standard' REGA for balanced operation - see this from here.
WARNING: The following link shows a disturbing image of manufacturer mis-wiring of a tone-arm.
The deliberate connection between the BLUE & BLACK leads is horrific!
The BLACK lead should be extended to the headshell (the missing' 5th wire).
However, the horror doesn't end with the tone-arm wiring.
Many cartridge manufacturers are also guilty of using a SIGNAL pin (usually a - pin) to connect the cartridge body casing to an imaginary ground instead of using the 'missing' 5th wire in the tone-arm.
The 'smarter' manufacturers make it easy to identify and correct their wiring error.
Example - see the source of imbalance on the GREEN signal pin, which should be disconnected from the GREEN pin and connected to the 'missing' 5th wire in the tone-arm.
Good Luck!
EDIT: Every tone-arm should present a minimum of 5 x wires at the headshell (4 x SIGNAL leads + GROUND lead).
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That's great, thanks Hamish. So its clear from this why the right channel works, but not the left channel.You most definitely need to modify the 'standard' REGA for balanced operation - see this from here.
WARNING: The following link shows a disturbing image of manufacturer mis-wiring of a tone-arm.
The deliberate connection between the BLUE & BLACK leads is horrific!
The BLACK lead should be extended to the headshell (the missing' 5th wire).
However, the horror doesn't end with the tone-arm wiring.
Many cartridge manufacturers are also guilty of using a SIGNAL pin (usually a - pin) to connect the cartridge body casing to an imaginary ground instead of using the 'missing' 5th wire in the tone-arm.
The 'smarter' manufacturers make it easy to identify and correct their wiring error.
Example - see the source of imbalance on the GREEN signal pin, which should be disconnected from the GREEN pin and connected to the 'missing' 5th wire in the tone-arm.
Good Luck!
EDIT: Every tone-arm should present a minimum of 5 x wires at the headshell (4 x SIGNAL leads + GROUND lead).
Looks like I got some work to do on my tonearm. Question, if I disconnect the ground from the left channel and don't reconnect the black wire 9just because I'm lazy) what happens?
Regards,
Hazard
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