rega arm rewire

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thanks guys
mrpig not sure what you mean ? to strip it? what else can i do to improve it more?
see i read somewhere in the last few days that a rega arm should have a bearing played with , it will ruin the arm. not sure what this means as well.

if i look into the base of the arm there is a nut . can this be removed safely?
 
Hi there,

What I'm talking about is stripping the black paint off and polishing the bare alloy tube. It opens out the sound, makes it less dead and sterile. Rega's top arm, the RB1000, has a bare tube.

You can trip the paint off with the arm fully assembled and it would be slightly easier for you as you've removed the rear stub.

You get a better finish if you dissemble the arm but I wouldn't recommend it unless you know how do set the bearings. It's not hard but you do need to know how to do it. The little nut under the pillar holds the bearing shaft in. If you take the nut off you can pull the shaft out but you need to be able to refit and reset the bearings when you put it back together.

The horizontal bearings in the yolk are easier. You take the two nuts off the sides and the two little Allan bolts at the dial-side and it just pulls apart. Take care though as the bias spring is under tension when it is set to zero and tension reduces as the tracking force goes up. It's not obvious that it works that way and you can get confused when you're putting it back together.

As it costs very little to strip the arm it's a no-brainer in my book.
 
Hi there,

What I'm talking about is stripping the black paint off and polishing the bare alloy tube. It opens out the sound, makes it less dead and sterile. Rega's top arm, the RB1000, has a bare tube.

You can trip the paint off with the arm fully assembled and it would be slightly easier for you as you've removed the rear stub.

You get a better finish if you dissemble the arm but I wouldn't recommend it unless you know how do set the bearings. It's not hard but you do need to know how to do it. The little nut under the pillar holds the bearing shaft in. If you take the nut off you can pull the shaft out but you need to be able to refit and reset the bearings when you put it back together.

The horizontal bearings in the yolk are easier. You take the two nuts off the sides and the two little Allan bolts at the dial-side and it just pulls apart. Take care though as the bias spring is under tension when it is set to zero and tension reduces as the tracking force goes up. It's not obvious that it works that way and you can get confused when you're putting it back together.

As it costs very little to strip the arm it's a no-brainer in my book.
awesome brother
exactly what i was hoping for. arm dis-assembly tonite. and buff the hell out of the arm.
bearings will not cause me any issue to remove and reassemble.
this should make fishing the new wires very easy as well right?
awesome awesome awesome i'll post progress pics asap
thanks so much for great advice
 
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The paint is very soft and I found that water-based paint stripper works very well.

Also strip the bearing yolk, as the arm looks better if this part is also silver.

Take care not to get stripper on the anti-skate dial as it'll take the numbers off! ;0)

The alloy is quite soft so don't use anything too abrasive on it or you'll scuff it up.

Keep us posted :0)
 
after work tonite i started the tear down of the arm. i hit a couple of brick walls.
i removed the bottom pivot nut to get the arm horizontal pivot yoke off but can't seem to get it to move. how ever i must say i was afraid to put too much force on it.
as well as the tracking force knob can't for the life of me see how to remove it from the arm tube.

i didn't put much force on it as well , thought it would be safer to ask first

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You can pull the horizontal bearing shaft out of there but honestly, don't! There is no merit in doing it, you'll just have to put it back in again, and getting the bearings sitting right and loaded correctly is a pain. Take care when you put the nut back on. If you over-tighten it you'll lock up the bearings.

Similarly, just leave the spring and dial assembly where it is. Just cover it in masking tape while you're stripping the arm. It's a lot easier than taking it out and leaves the bearings undisturbed. As it is you can put the tube back in the yolk and the bearings should still be set ok.
 
You can pull the horizontal bearing shaft out of there but honestly, don't! There is no merit in doing it, you'll just have to put it back in again, and getting the bearings sitting right and loaded correctly is a pain. Take care when you put the nut back on. If you over-tighten it you'll lock up the bearings.

Similarly, just leave the spring and dial assembly where it is. Just cover it in masking tape while you're stripping the arm. It's a lot easier than taking it out and leaves the bearings undisturbed. As it is you can put the tube back in the yolk and the bearings should still be set ok.
ok sounds good
i'll keep you posted with any progress
thanks so much
 
well guys i've been working on my arm this weekend and here is where it stands as of now sunday.
after i had stripped off the paint, i was shocked to see how rough the casting was.
i started with 100 g paper to 200 then 400 then 800 and lastly 1000.
it's starting to come around but i want to polish it more.

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Looking good :0)

The best way to get it really shiny is to use a buffing wheel and liquid polish. You can get it looking like chrome that way.

Toothpicks and bits of credit card are good for flicking the paint out of the holes and slots, don't use anything metal or you'll scratch the tube, it's quite soft. Just slap on more paint stripper to demoralise the paint and it'll fall off.

Talking of the metal being soft, be really careful with the finger lift. If you put much pressure on that it''ll break off, it's only cast. A lot of people accidentally break them off while messing with the arm.

Don't forget to strip the little support plate for the dial side! ;0)
 
I've read on a rega upgrade site that lots remove the finger lift bar. Are there any sonic improvements in doing so?

Well put it this way. If you take it off and discover there isn't you're not going to be very happy! ;0)

Personally, there's no way I'd take the finger-lift off. If it does result in an upgrade it has to be a pretty flippin small one and I reckon it'll be far outweighed by the usefulness of the finger-lift. I use it all the time, I never use the lift-lower device. And it might effect resale value too, if that bothers you at all? I wouldn't buy a Rega arm that didn't have the finger-lift.

But it's a personal thing. If you never use the finger-lift and don't care about resale then go for it. Taking it off certainly can't make it sound any worse! ;0)
 
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