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Old 5th March 2013, 12:57 AM   #81
GKF is offline GKF  Canada
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guys here is why i asked about the weight. to get it balanced with the ortofon cartridge it's at the end of the stub. i've read on a number of turntable setup posts that it's best to have the correct weight as close to the pivot as you can.
so if thats true this weight out at the end will cause a issue.

http://Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 5th March 2013, 06:20 PM   #82
MrPig is offline MrPig  United Kingdom
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I've tried messing about with adding weight to the counterweight so it sat closer to the hub, and balancing the arm with the spring disabled, and I can't hear any difference. In theory there should be one, but I can't hear it so I reckon it can't be very big.
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Old 6th March 2013, 12:10 AM   #83
GKF is offline GKF  Canada
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ok thanks for that thought .i wonder if what makes a difference is the cartridge and where they mount in the headshell?
in the past before the rewire i had the ortofon mc10 low out mc mounted and it was about 3 to 4 mm back farther then the ortfon 2m red now. the 2 m is a longer cartridge.
it tested the arm tonight after work with flatwashers and i found i would need about 130gram weight .
ok i just checked the mc10 booklet and 7g weight now the 2m is 7.2 gram so thats not it.
so must be the difference in the two and where they mount.
or would removing the paint from the arm drop the arm mass enough to cause as balance issue?
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Old 6th March 2013, 06:54 PM   #84
MrPig is offline MrPig  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GKF View Post
would removing the paint from the arm drop the arm mass enough to cause as balance issue?
It's certainly going to make the tube lighter isn't it? Yes, it does effect where the weight sits. The paint doesn't weigh much but it does weigh something.

I guess that yes, where the cart sits will alter where the weight sits, obviously, but to be honest I've never worried much about such things.
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Old 6th March 2013, 08:06 PM   #85
GKF is offline GKF  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPig View Post
It's certainly going to make the tube lighter isn't it? Yes, it does effect where the weight sits. The paint doesn't weigh much but it does weigh something.

I guess that yes, where the cart sits will alter where the weight sits, obviously, but to be honest I've never worried much about such things.

i know i may be nitt picking here but you know how it goes. i'm just after the best and most i can get out of this arm.
i am getting the fellow from audioorigami to make me a new 125 gram brass weight.
the visual appeal here will be stunning. i can't wait.
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Old 19th March 2013, 12:36 AM   #86
GKF is offline GKF  Canada
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a little update today
i received the audio origami 125g weight today. awesome work by jonnie. came in a black draw string bag. the weight , set screw, hex key, audio origami high quality badge.
i'm very glad he posted on my rewire post or i would not have found his web site.
this addition makes my arm look like a million bucks. i'm very happy.
http://Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 19th March 2013, 12:32 PM   #87
Calvin is offline Calvin  Germany
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Hi,

had my old Technics SL-3310, that I got from ebay for 15€, modified and set up with my Rega RB300, which I had laying around unused for years.
Modded the Rega with new internal wiring, which is made from silk-spun fine copper wire, 10*0.050mm. The wire were sent to me as free sample. Probabely could even have got silver wire, but since I´m a technical person I rather rely on practical reasoning than voodoo.
Two strands were twisted together to achieve a low enough resistance, since the cabling should not reduce the output of low output MC pickups. So its a compromise between thinness and flexibility against signal transmission quality.
Each twisted wire pair got a pickup-pin connector type FK20SL-08V. This is a single female crimp contact, 0.8µm gold-plated, for AWG24-20, made by FCT.
I´m quite sure that it matches, probabely surpasses boutique-priced Cardas parts or similar in quality and handling.
The wires were soldered to the contacts and each of the four got a piece of differently coloured heatshrink tubing. The wires enter the Arm tube through the rubber grommit, which I resused. Within the arm tube the two wires of each channel are twisted together. The twisting results in less noise, especially with an differential input phono stage. Too, I run each channel through two straws, that separate and fix the wires. Maybe that this is a bit over, but I find it omehow weird, even amusing to see cabling tweaks with terribly expensive wires, that don´t take care of how the wires run through the arm zube itself. No consistency in noise- and impedance performance and channel separation, but the sound is of course always much better than ever
Since the tonearm is be mounted fixed, I run the wires to the putput connectors, which are unbalanced RCA and balanced Fisher connectors in parallel, so You can choose the cabling to the phono stage depending on the input of the phono stage. just leave the unused connectors open.
As pickup I run a modified Denon103 which I got as ´payment´ for a development. Unfortunately this pickup required a heavier counterweight.
Lucky me I made a deal with another DIYer, whom I helped in the design of his phono stage and who was able to turn a counterweight.
The counterweight weighs 133gr is turned from INOX steel, 40mm in OD and has a excentrical bore for the tonearm stub. I reused the O-rings of the original weight.
Last modifcation was the dampening of the tracking force spring with fine pieces of cotton batting.

And this is how it looks:

jauu
Calvin
Attached Images
File Type: jpg MyTechnics front 01s.jpg (128.4 KB, 124 views)
File Type: jpg MyTechnics lid 01s.jpg (200.0 KB, 122 views)
File Type: jpg MyTechnics pickup 01s.jpg (241.5 KB, 25 views)
File Type: jpg MyTechnics pickup 02s.jpg (234.8 KB, 23 views)
File Type: jpg MyTechnics pickup 04s.jpg (228.6 KB, 28 views)
File Type: jpg Counterweight 01 small.jpg (76.4 KB, 33 views)
File Type: jpg Counterweight 03 small.jpg (59.5 KB, 29 views)
File Type: jpg Tonearm modified 01 small.jpg (63.8 KB, 29 views)

Last edited by Calvin; 19th March 2013 at 12:35 PM.
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Old 12th July 2013, 08:54 AM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by migkiller1971 View Post
These pics are not mine but I had the same problem after my rewire. I almost bought a new tonearm because the distortion and crosstalk drove me up the wall. Thank god for this person. Obviously don't use a toothpick but a REPLACEMENT LEAD FOR MECHANICAL CARPENTER PENCIL or anything flat to measure both sides. It has to do with the way you tighten everthing back up.

BEFORE:

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

AFTER:

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.


I think the guy who posted these pics paid around $300 for this rb600 with a rewire!! I bet you anything the original owner had the same problem I did and couldn't figure it out and sold it..
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPig View Post
Those pictures mean nothing to me. A toothpick, really??

I wouldn't know where to start regarding the flaws in the methodology here. You're measuring the top of the headshell, not the lower face which is machined. Assuming the toothpick is dead straight, and the record dead level. Assuming the front of the armboard is parallel with the back, and the platter! In short, it's sloppy nonsense that proves nothing at all.

And you're also assuming that the stylus itself is exactly at right-angles to the cartridge...
Thanks MIGKILLER for sharing my pics. I was to lazy to get my machinist rule to measure and eneded up using the wood. Not a big deal.
Now, to whom it may concern,
I did measure (using a micrometer, not a vernier caliper) the thickness of the headshell to make sure it is even. I am not stupid. The armboard, whis is the orinal armboard was also measured.

I couldn't find my pencils that's why I "TRIED" using a toothpick. MIGKILLER posted before and after pics. Hey, to each his own. It worked for me, it can work for others. I did my best and it paid off.

If the pictures are of no use, no reason for insult. A TOOTHPICK, REALLY?
Read before you speak. BEFORE...AFTER pics?

Yes, there was an issue with the arm that's why the previous owner sold it. I took that thing apart and checked all the problems and FIXED it.

BTW, I no longer have the TD 125 Mk2. Replaced it with a SOTA Comet and very pleased with what I can afford.

NO NEED TO TALK **** ABOUT OTHER PEOPLE'S WORK

No wonder a lot of members get annoyed.
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Old 12th July 2013, 09:01 AM   #89
Mooly is offline Mooly  United Kingdom
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Lets just keep to the technical side and on topic. No need for any insults.
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Old 1st August 2013, 05:34 PM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GKF View Post
after work tonite i started the tear down of the arm. i hit a couple of brick walls.
i removed the bottom pivot nut to get the arm horizontal pivot yoke off but can't seem to get it to move. how ever i must say i was afraid to put too much force on it.
http://...Click the image to open in full size.
Hi GKF;

Is that an exploded parts list/diagram of an RB300 I see in the background? Can I get a copy if it is? I am a vinylengine site member and have not seen it there.

Nice work and thanks

Matt
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