rega arm rewire - Page 3

MrPig · 21st January 2013, 03:52 PM

Looks good. Go the whole hog and strip it now! ;0) You know you'll wish you did when it's all back together...

kevinkr · 21st January 2013, 04:38 PM

I'd second that comment..

GKF · 21st January 2013, 11:00 PM

thanks guys
mrpig not sure what you mean ? to strip it? what else can i do to improve it more?
see i read somewhere in the last few days that a rega arm should have a bearing played with , it will ruin the arm. not sure what this means as well.

if i look into the base of the arm there is a nut . can this be removed safely?

MrPig · 22nd January 2013, 04:40 PM

Hi there,

What I'm talking about is stripping the black paint off and polishing the bare alloy tube. It opens out the sound, makes it less dead and sterile. Rega's top arm, the RB1000, has a bare tube.

You can trip the paint off with the arm fully assembled and it would be slightly easier for you as you've removed the rear stub.

You get a better finish if you dissemble the arm but I wouldn't recommend it unless you know how do set the bearings. It's not hard but you do need to know how to do it. The little nut under the pillar holds the bearing shaft in. If you take the nut off you can pull the shaft out but you need to be able to refit and reset the bearings when you put it back together.

The horizontal bearings in the yolk are easier. You take the two nuts off the sides and the two little Allan bolts at the dial-side and it just pulls apart. Take care though as the bias spring is under tension when it is set to zero and tension reduces as the tracking force goes up. It's not obvious that it works that way and you can get confused when you're putting it back together.

As it costs very little to strip the arm it's a no-brainer in my book.

GKF · 05:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MrPig

Hi there,

What I'm talking about is stripping the black paint off and polishing the bare alloy tube. It opens out the sound, makes it less dead and sterile. Rega's top arm, the RB1000, has a bare tube.

You can trip the paint off with the arm fully assembled and it would be slightly easier for you as you've removed the rear stub.

You get a better finish if you dissemble the arm but I wouldn't recommend it unless you know how do set the bearings. It's not hard but you do need to know how to do it. The little nut under the pillar holds the bearing shaft in. If you take the nut off you can pull the shaft out but you need to be able to refit and reset the bearings when you put it back together.

The horizontal bearings in the yolk are easier. You take the two nuts off the sides and the two little Allan bolts at the dial-side and it just pulls apart. Take care though as the bias spring is under tension when it is set to zero and tension reduces as the tracking force goes up. It's not obvious that it works that way and you can get confused when you're putting it back together.

As it costs very little to strip the arm it's a no-brainer in my book.

awesome brother
exactly what i was hoping for. arm dis-assembly tonite. and buff the hell out of the arm.
bearings will not cause me any issue to remove and reassemble.
this should make fishing the new wires very easy as well right?
awesome awesome awesome i'll post progress pics asap
thanks so much for great advice

MrPig · 22nd January 2013, 05:35 PM

The paint is very soft and I found that water-based paint stripper works very well.

Also strip the bearing yolk, as the arm looks better if this part is also silver.

Take care not to get stripper on the anti-skate dial as it'll take the numbers off! ;0)

The alloy is quite soft so don't use anything too abrasive on it or you'll scuff it up.

Keep us posted :0)

MrPig · 22nd January 2013, 05:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GKF

bearings will not cause me any issue to remove and reassemble.

Brave words young Skywalker! ;0) Those horizontal bearingin the pillar are actually a mare to get right. Don't take them out, you don't need to anyway.

GKF · 22nd January 2013, 06:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MrPig

Brave words young Skywalker! ;0) Those horizontal bearingin the pillar are actually a mare to get right. Don't take them out, you don't need to anyway.

thanks again
i'm excited now to get underway with this now

GKF · 23rd January 2013, 12:38 AM

after work tonite i started the tear down of the arm. i hit a couple of brick walls.
i removed the bottom pivot nut to get the arm horizontal pivot yoke off but can't seem to get it to move. how ever i must say i was afraid to put too much force on it.
as well as the tracking force knob can't for the life of me see how to remove it from the arm tube.

i didn't put much force on it as well , thought it would be safer to ask first

http://

http://

MrPig · 23rd January 2013, 04:33 PM

You can pull the horizontal bearing shaft out of there but honestly, don't! There is no merit in doing it, you'll just have to put it back in again, and getting the bearings sitting right and loaded correctly is a pain. Take care when you put the nut back on. If you over-tighten it you'll lock up the bearings.

Similarly, just leave the spring and dial assembly where it is. Just cover it in masking tape while you're stripping the arm. It's a lot easier than taking it out and leaves the bearings undisturbed. As it is you can put the tube back in the yolk and the bearings should still be set ok.

21st January 2013, 04:38 PM	#22
kevinkr diyAudio Moderator Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Boston, Massachusetts Blog Entries: 6	I'd second that comment.. __________________ "Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence." - Carl Sagan

23rd January 2013, 12:38 AM	#29
GKF diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: miramichi nb canada	after work tonite i started the tear down of the arm. i hit a couple of brick walls. i removed the bottom pivot nut to get the arm horizontal pivot yoke off but can't seem to get it to move. how ever i must say i was afraid to put too much force on it. as well as the tracking force knob can't for the life of me see how to remove it from the arm tube. i didn't put much force on it as well , thought it would be safer to ask first http:// http:// http:// http://

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21st January 2013, 03:52 PM	#21
MrPig diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2011	Looks good. Go the whole hog and strip it now! ;0) You know you'll wish you did when it's all back together...

21st January 2013, 11:00 PM	#23
GKF diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: miramichi nb canada	thanks guys mrpig not sure what you mean ? to strip it? what else can i do to improve it more? see i read somewhere in the last few days that a rega arm should have a bearing played with , it will ruin the arm. not sure what this means as well. if i look into the base of the arm there is a nut . can this be removed safely?

22nd January 2013, 04:40 PM	#24
MrPig diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2011	Hi there, What I'm talking about is stripping the black paint off and polishing the bare alloy tube. It opens out the sound, makes it less dead and sterile. Rega's top arm, the RB1000, has a bare tube. You can trip the paint off with the arm fully assembled and it would be slightly easier for you as you've removed the rear stub. You get a better finish if you dissemble the arm but I wouldn't recommend it unless you know how do set the bearings. It's not hard but you do need to know how to do it. The little nut under the pillar holds the bearing shaft in. If you take the nut off you can pull the shaft out but you need to be able to refit and reset the bearings when you put it back together. The horizontal bearings in the yolk are easier. You take the two nuts off the sides and the two little Allan bolts at the dial-side and it just pulls apart. Take care though as the bias spring is under tension when it is set to zero and tension reduces as the tracking force goes up. It's not obvious that it works that way and you can get confused when you're putting it back together. As it costs very little to strip the arm it's a no-brainer in my book.

22nd January 2013, 05:35 PM	#26
MrPig diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2011	The paint is very soft and I found that water-based paint stripper works very well. Also strip the bearing yolk, as the arm looks better if this part is also silver. Take care not to get stripper on the anti-skate dial as it'll take the numbers off! ;0) The alloy is quite soft so don't use anything too abrasive on it or you'll scuff it up. Keep us posted :0)

23rd January 2013, 04:33 PM	#30
MrPig diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2011	You can pull the horizontal bearing shaft out of there but honestly, don't! There is no merit in doing it, you'll just have to put it back in again, and getting the bearings sitting right and loaded correctly is a pain. Take care when you put the nut back on. If you over-tighten it you'll lock up the bearings. Similarly, just leave the spring and dial assembly where it is. Just cover it in masking tape while you're stripping the arm. It's a lot easier than taking it out and leaves the bearings undisturbed. As it is you can put the tube back in the yolk and the bearings should still be set ok.