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Old 10th January 2013, 06:44 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by vinylkid58 View Post
I don't think I've heard the term "slush" before. As a point of reference, we need to know what turntable you have now.

jeff

Hello fellow Victorian,

I came across that term on some Vinyl forum while researching different drive methods.

It's a Pioneer PL-12D with an Ortofon RED. I'm sure a much better belt turntable wouldn't have much, if any of it. But like I said I would like to try a direct drive.
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Old 11th January 2013, 03:46 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by MrPig View Post
Where is the power switch going to go?

An alternative might be acrylic. You can drill that yourself and it's far less resonant than glass. You can get it in lots of different thickness's and colours.

A laminate of different woods is a good idea. It'll be stronger and more stable. I've seen laminate platters too.

Were you planning on a dust cover? Have you got an arm in mind?
I think I'm going to put the power switch and speed controls on the front. Turn them into dials if I can manage.

I will probably end up using acrylic. Like you said glass is a pain to deal with.

Dust cover is something I'm not sure on yet. My house is very dusty unfortunately, but I don't like the look of them. I might try and do one like most, with a hinge that slides into a little slot.

No idea on the arm. Thought I might build one but haven't looked into it much yet.

Here's a diagram I just put together on my iPad of what I want it to look like. Minus the arm I don't care if its curved or straight.
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Old 12th January 2013, 10:26 AM   #23
MrPig is offline MrPig  United Kingdom
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Originally Posted by Omniflic View Post
Here's a diagram I just put together on my iPad
Gosh! Well, I hope you like it, because you'll never sell it! ;0) The more outlandish and 'personal' you make it the less likely it is that anyone else will like it. Not a problem, if you like the thing that's all that matters, as long as you're not bothered by other people's opinions.

I'd go for a Rega arm, one of the earlier ones with the large nut holding it on. Rega arms are without a doubt the best value high-performance tone-arms in the world, they are robust and plentiful. You can also upgrade them by modifying them and quite a few other arms share the same geometry. If you make a hole to suit a Rega arm you'll never need to make another top-plate in order to upgrade the arm.

If you want a hinged but removable lid, like the Linn LP12 lid, I'd make that the first thing you buy so that you can build the rest of the deck to fit it. You'll need to watch your platter thickness etc to make sure you retain clearance for the arms you want. The LP12 lid will take most 9" arms but not a 12" one. Or you could get a lid made to the size you want. The problem there, if you make it very big, is getting hinges that'll hold it up.

Why is it that people with Apple products feel the need to tell the world they have them? ;0) I didn't like Apple as a company and I think there products are over-priced, over-rated have very poor serviceability. So buying Apple is not a Brownie point in my book ;0)
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Old 13th January 2013, 01:17 PM   #24
pdm4606 is offline pdm4606  United States
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Default homegrown TT

The enjoyment of building something and having it actually work is beyond belief.
You know you put every ounce of effort and here it is. Then there are always the tweeks. After you build it you find all kinds of things to tweek for improvement.
Having built the TT also lets you understand the record playing/tt building/pain and enjoyment easier.
You also build a bond with something mechanical and that is fun. It will occupy your mind endlessly.

Paul
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Old 13th January 2013, 01:37 PM   #25
MrPig is offline MrPig  United Kingdom
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Originally Posted by pdm4606 View Post
The enjoyment of building something and having it actually work is beyond belief.
I would have said relief but I know what you mean!

Quote:
It will occupy your mind endlessly.
Especially when it doesn't work!

I also think there's a danger in DIY though. Because you've invested so much time and effort into something you can see, or hear it, through rose-tinted glasses. It might not actually work very well but you stick with it because you can't face having wasted so much time on something that's not right. Self-discipline there is hard but valuable.
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Old 13th January 2013, 02:02 PM   #26
kevinkr is offline kevinkr  United States
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The inexpensive Rega arm to go for would seem to be the RB-250, there are available endless performance enhancing modifications of what is basically a good arm to start with.
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Old 13th January 2013, 02:12 PM   #27
MrPig is offline MrPig  United Kingdom
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Originally Posted by kevinkr View Post
The inexpensive Rega arm to go for would seem to be the RB-250
True there are loads of mods for them but most of the mods will also work on the RB300 and the RB300 is a better arm to start with. But you can typically get the RB250 cheaper, which makes sense if you're going to bin half of it anyway!

Another thing to watch is that not all RB250-type arms are the same. As everyone knows, Rega supplied these arms with many other companies badges on them. Most of them are just the same as the Rega-badged version, the Moth, Audio Origami, Michelle etc are all of the same quality as the Rega-badged product. Some were not though. Off the top of my head I know that the arms on Goldring turntables were not built to the same quality. The bearings were not matched and set to the same standard as the other arms for instance. Just something to bear in mind if buying one of these arms.
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Old 13th January 2013, 02:57 PM   #28
kevinkr is offline kevinkr  United States
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My understanding is that modified the RB-250 is a much better arm, and almost all of the available mods seem to be for that arm. Something about the way tracking force is applied and the arm bearing assembly. I've had an RB-301 - moved on to Schick and SME..

Yes there are lots of rebadged Rega RB-250 arms with significant variations. I'd probably avoid the newer 251 and 301 if possible, I'm suspicious of the three point fixing scheme as opposed to the threaded tube and nut approach which I feel couples the arm much more effectively to the plinth.

I recommend this guy: audio mods Rega arm conversion kits and DIY mods
Have several friends with his arms or kits and all have been pleased.
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Old 13th January 2013, 03:34 PM   #29
MrPig is offline MrPig  United Kingdom
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Originally Posted by kevinkr View Post
My understanding is that modified the RB-250 is a much better arm
That's what most people think but I'm not convinced. See my arguments above!

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I'm suspicious of the three point fixing scheme as opposed to the threaded tube and nut approach
I agree. I've talked to Johnny/Audio Origami about this and he says the three-point fixing sounds better because it decouples the arm from the armboard a bit. But surely if you wanted to achieve that with the nut-fixing you could, you could fit plastic washers or something under the arm/nut. You've got the option. The plastic collar just looks like cost cutting to me. Plus I don't want to screw three wood screws into the top of my armboard.
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Old 15th January 2013, 10:07 AM   #30
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Default 250 is better than 300

Hi the RD250 are is better for upgrading than the 300. because of it's bearing arrangemnt. The newer 250/300 etc with the 3 piont mount was introduced as a cost saving, IMHO and many other people plastic (3 piont) mount are crap. If you want a Rega find a good example on E/B and then upgrade it yourself, There are many suppliers of upgrade kits, but why bother with a 9 inch arm when you can buy a new 12inch arm kit of off E/B for $135. I sold my modded RB for one of these kits and came out with a better arm and over & $100 in my pocket.
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