I had a Denon DL103 years ago and really did like it. But... I gave up on it because I never had a truly good step-up transformer. I've never had a 103R, so can't comment on that.
A few years ago, I got a Denon DL110 and I'm still using it. It's surprisingly good. Not quite up to DL103 standards. I think it might be a little less smooth mids/highs. But for the money, it plays way better than any Grado I had, even a white Signature.
I run my DL110 into a 1k ohm load, not the 47k recommended by Denon. The DL110 sounds pretty harsh into a 47k ohm load. Published output Z is 160 ohms, so 1k5 ohms load should be about perfect.
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I am currently using a DL-110 in one of my tabels, and I am very pleased. It has no major flaws or complaints, and is very musical. In the way that it makes you enjoy the music and forget about the hifi. I like that. 
I have not yet experimented with loading, I will give it a try.
rongon said:
I have not yet experimented with loading, I will give it a try.
You are quite right. there has been quite a bit of discussion here and elsewhere concerning the poorly documented fact that many LP's were recorded so that a spherical stylus was optimum. If folks only apprised themselves of how much distortion of all kinds LP reproduction can withstand.
My understanding of the DL-103R is that it also has a softer suspension making it a bit more compatible with modern (I.E., lower mass) tonearms.
a.wayne -- I am using a PassDIY (Wayne Colburn) Pearl and Pearl 2. I also have an Elliott Sound Products Project 06 RIAA amp as well as a Nakamichi CA-7ii. The Pearls are by far my favorite.
a.wayne -- I am using a PassDIY (Wayne Colburn) Pearl and Pearl 2. I also have an Elliott Sound Products Project 06 RIAA amp as well as a Nakamichi CA-7ii. The Pearls are by far my favorite.
I think it would not be correct to mention any brands here
and this is only my experience.I can however assure you that it will not be better than a Koetsu Rosewood or Kondp Io or any cartridge with a good AlNiCo magnet and boron cantilever.
The Denon is a very good cartridge for the money, it is worth improving but since it does not have an AlNiCo magnet, it will never become the best in the world
Most of the repair companies are advising ruby cantilever as boron cantilevers are very hard to source.
I think all companies will ask you to send your cartridge for inspection (I do the same) and after the inspection you'll get a quote for servicing it.
As I mentioned earlier the DL-103 cartridges are very tough. I have not yet seen any with broken coil even though the cantilever received such a big shock that it broke off. What you have to take into account is that the tensioning wire can get deformed and it is not easy to change it without damaging the coil. If the coil is damaged then it needs a new coil and the is expensive.
Certainly when a new coil is winded the owner can chose an output impedance as well as the material of the wire. If the service company has for example silver wire that could be an upgrade as well.
Also there are differences in the copper wire: 4N, 5N or 6N, OCC or not.
Besides the price also take into account the waiting time.
IMHO, bypass the 103 and go for the 103R "if" you have a heavy-ish arm, or you have the ability to add mass to your existing arm. You may need a SUT, like the CineMag 3340's.
jeff
We discussed adding tone arm weights somewhere in the BT thread (good luck). I think the lead tape they sell to tweak golf clubs would work here.
Well now, these "upgrades" where they "replace" the cantilever, is it not true that what is really going on is that *everything* except for the case and the magnetic motor assembly is being replaced? Nothing remains of the old coils, damper ring, cantilever and tip, and that piano wire suspension thingie??
I'm not saying that this is a bad thing, just that there's really little resemblance between the old and new.
Too bad there is no way to just replace the cantilever alone...
_-_-bear
PS. speaking of which, one USA rebuilder <name withheld> whose rebuilds friends have acquired when measured all seem to have a freq response peak above 10Khz. The peak appears to have a slope of about 12dB/oct going up. This means that it is unlikely that a simple capacitive loading will yield a flat response. Most users of this rebuilders work are unaware of this (apparently) and few users are sophisticated enough to even know about capacitive loading of phono cartridges as an option, or to have done it, or have the preamp with this available.
something to think about...
I'm not saying that this is a bad thing, just that there's really little resemblance between the old and new.
Too bad there is no way to just replace the cantilever alone...
_-_-bear
PS. speaking of which, one USA rebuilder <name withheld> whose rebuilds friends have acquired when measured all seem to have a freq response peak above 10Khz. The peak appears to have a slope of about 12dB/oct going up. This means that it is unlikely that a simple capacitive loading will yield a flat response.
Most users of this rebuilders work are unaware of this (apparently) and few users are sophisticated enough to even know about capacitive loading of phono cartridges as an option, or to have done it, or have the preamp with this available. something to think about...
PS. speaking of which, one USA rebuilder <name withheld> whose rebuilds friends have acquired when measured all seem to have a freq response peak above 10Khz. The peak appears to have a slope of about 12dB/oct going up. This means that it is unlikely that a simple capacitive loading will yield a flat response.
something to think about...
I'm confused, I thought it was an MC cart with a LOT less L and R to work against the C???
Well now, these "upgrades" where they "replace" the cantilever, is it not true that what is really going on is that *everything* except for the case and the magnetic motor assembly is being replaced? Nothing remains of the old coils, damper ring, cantilever and tip, and that piano wire suspension thingie??
I'm not saying that this is a bad thing, just that there's really little resemblance between the old and new.
Too bad there is no way to just replace the cantilever alone...
<snip>
_-_-bear
The ones I have seen all had the original generator assembly, damper ring, etc. - the only thing replaced was the cantilever and stylus which is generally glued into the the end of the old one which is cut somewhere near the mounting bushing.
FWIW as a long time user of LOMC cartridges including SPU and DL-103 one tames the HF resonance by varying the loading R, capacitance is generally ineffective. A number of people I know use rebuilt DL-103 loaded into a couple of hundred ohms and have not observed unusually large resonances in the pass band. (They have the hardware and motivation to make measurements)
I meant cap loading won't help in this case as in MM. Not exactly the same mechanisms at work here.
Any input on the spherical stylus vs other profiles? The articles mentioned were fairly compelling, naming several majors that used the predistortion. I myself have not been able to measure any difference using various test records including ones that put the test signals directly into the lathe recording electronics.
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