PSU's...well...
No real need for chokes if you make a shunt-regulator...
...which is probably best for long term ease of use & max low impedance power.
However...
...Batteries are always an option, for those who want to get started quickly, or who don't want to mess with mains-voltage, or complex regulators.
Just worked out the power consumption for 'AA' & 'C' type batteries ( aprox. )...
16x 'AA' cells in easy fit 2x 8 battery holders...About 65 hours play time.
16x 'C' cells in easy fit 4x 4 battery holders...About 195 hours play time.
Of course if you have a couple of cars sitting in your drive...
...& some jump-leads...
...just connect the 2 auto batteries in series...& power the Boozehound from that !!!
Now there's a VERY low impedance power supply !!!
You could remove the batteries from the cars & plonk them down on the living room floor...
...The Misses ( based on experience ) may not like this...
...No problem...
...Just tell her Madonna will sound WAY better with the auto batteries...
...simples...
...JOB DONE !
Si.
PS no need to run the auto motors whilst playing...
...could cause system interferance...
...not absolutely sure...
...but my guess is you could probably power a Boozehound for 5 years this way, on 1 charge !!!
( hook up solar-panels...for an environment friendly Boozehound )
No real need for chokes if you make a shunt-regulator...
...which is probably best for long term ease of use & max low impedance power.
However...
...Batteries are always an option, for those who want to get started quickly, or who don't want to mess with mains-voltage, or complex regulators.
Just worked out the power consumption for 'AA' & 'C' type batteries ( aprox. )...
16x 'AA' cells in easy fit 2x 8 battery holders...About 65 hours play time.
16x 'C' cells in easy fit 4x 4 battery holders...About 195 hours play time.
Of course if you have a couple of cars sitting in your drive...
...& some jump-leads...
...just connect the 2 auto batteries in series...& power the Boozehound from that !!!
Now there's a VERY low impedance power supply !!!
You could remove the batteries from the cars & plonk them down on the living room floor...
...The Misses ( based on experience ) may not like this...
...No problem...
...Just tell her Madonna will sound WAY better with the auto batteries...
...simples...
...JOB DONE !
Si.
PS no need to run the auto motors whilst playing...
...could cause system interferance...
...not absolutely sure...
...but my guess is you could probably power a Boozehound for 5 years this way, on 1 charge !!!
( hook up solar-panels...for an environment friendly Boozehound )
Never been a fan of batteries, yes they are very quiet but usually when I have tried them they sound either wimpy or dark to me plus it really bothers me that are always running out of juice. The sound doesn't just cut off it gets progressively worse, in electric cars it is called range anxiety and a large part of the reason we have hybrids and not pure electrics.
Also I heard difference in sound quality between brands. More testing I don't really want to do. By the way I found the cheap crap short lasting non alkaline batteries sounded less harsh than say Energizer, although Duracell was not too bad.
Ok I'll stop whining now and say I would be a little more open to trying the car battery though. I have one from a Mazda Miata so it is not too big to sneak in the living room and I can use a charger when I am not listening to keep the volts up.......hmm worth a try, I am always willing to try an untested scenario.
Also I heard difference in sound quality between brands. More testing I don't really want to do. By the way I found the cheap crap short lasting non alkaline batteries sounded less harsh than say Energizer, although Duracell was not too bad.
Ok I'll stop whining now and say I would be a little more open to trying the car battery though. I have one from a Mazda Miata so it is not too big to sneak in the living room and I can use a charger when I am not listening to keep the volts up.......hmm worth a try, I am always willing to try an untested scenario.
Here's Some 'L' Pacific' Build Photos..............
Some 'L' Pacific' Build Photos.
Note these are all from some years back...before the 'vogue' for ex-soviet military
hardware capacitors.
They all use the same, small red, low-voltage polypropylene types for the EQ section & coupling capacitor.
Some of the schematics posted on the last page are quite clever...
...in that they have optimised the EQ capacitor values, using an RIAA calculator...
...and come up with 99nF Bass, 33nF Treble, 66nF Coupling...
...pretty smart...just buy a big bag of 33nF caps...measure & match them...
BINGO
33nF x 3 = Bass 99nF
33nF x 1 = Treble 33nF
33nF x 2 = Coupling 66nF
Perhaps a few polystyrene's or silver-mica's added later for fine tuning of the RIAA values.
Neat.
Si.
Here's the build photos...Mad_K's is the first one...
...Mads, love your building style dude...your BZLS is a masterpiece also...
...a fan
Some 'L' Pacific' Build Photos.
Note these are all from some years back...before the 'vogue' for ex-soviet military
hardware capacitors.They all use the same, small red, low-voltage polypropylene types for the EQ section & coupling capacitor.
Some of the schematics posted on the last page are quite clever...
...in that they have optimised the EQ capacitor values, using an RIAA calculator...
...and come up with 99nF Bass, 33nF Treble, 66nF Coupling...
...pretty smart...just buy a big bag of 33nF caps...measure & match them...
BINGO
33nF x 3 = Bass 99nF
33nF x 1 = Treble 33nF
33nF x 2 = Coupling 66nF
Perhaps a few polystyrene's or silver-mica's added later for fine tuning of the RIAA values.
Neat.
Si.
Here's the build photos...Mad_K's is the first one...
...Mads, love your building style dude...your BZLS is a masterpiece also...
...a fan
Attachments
R1 and R9 choices
I am using optical resistors in positions R1 and R9. See https://picasaweb.google.com/udailey/ResistorReplacer?authuser=0&feat=directlink#
Paul.
I am using optical resistors in positions R1 and R9. See https://picasaweb.google.com/udailey/ResistorReplacer?authuser=0&feat=directlink#
Paul.
I think you are talking about Welwyn W21, and yes, they are very good sounding resistors.
I have compared them to generic white square body wirewound resistors and the welwyn sounded better. I have compared Welwyn to other metal film resistors like Dale, Philips, Beyshlag, even Vishay naked, and I find Welwyn to have a much clearer sound across the entire frequency range than any metal film resistor, they also have really good HF extension and clear deep bass. Perhaps Mills might be better, but I didnt try them.
PS> I'm now waiting for a troller to tell us that all resistors sound the same. Hopfully the trollers will stay away.
PS> I'm now waiting for a troller to tell us that all resistors sound the same. Hopfully the trollers will stay away.
To those that can't hear the difference in resistors:
Wow! Thanks for the heads up, if the Welwyn W21 even is comparable to a Vishay nude that is saying a lot. I must give those a try as the price is mere pennies next to the Vishay.
I have actually given a good deal of thought lately to those who say they can't hear the difference in resistors and other component changes and I believe I have some sincere answers.
I am not trying to ruffle feathers but only to possibly shine some light for those in the dark to experience the fun (or madness!) some of use are having. Sorry if this is rambling a bit but I found writing this to be more relaxing than watching TV.
1.Check your hearing and your gear-
There are quite a few on line tests if you don't have a tone generator or test cd. The link below has a test that goes from 20-20k, don't use the ones that only go up to 8k as they are good enough for speech but not quite so good for your hi-fi purposes. You will also want to do a search for other online hearing tests that use several different methods of testing such as speech and back round noise.
What is your hearing range? | egopont
If you are not hearing as high as you thought you could, try a few different sets of headphones, instead of speakers.
I can hear up to 19k on most headphones and on a set of ADS speakers that have 3/4" tweeters on my pc. The ADS 3/4" tweeters are supposedly good up to 27K from old spec sheets. I find most speaker companies with 1" dome tweeters just say their speakers go up to 20K for marketing. Your average hi-fi speaker actually trails off around 16-17k being quite a few db down at 20k from my experience unless you have ribbons or some exotic tweeter. I have tested many really expensive tweeters, few make it flat to the top in reality.
2. Try changing a resistor that is directly in the circuit path on a design that is fairly simple. Also try wildly different types of resistors, like a vintage brown colored carbon comp to cheap blue metal film. Low parts count designs are much more dependant on a single component that one with hundreds of resistors. If you are willing to spend a few dollars try a couple of Caddock TF020 or MK132 and or a Vishay nude versus cheap radio shack blue metal films or carbons. There is an absolute huge difference in sound that some may or may not like. The point is the difference is huge and most people with decent hearing should be able to easily tell the difference between the cheapo's and the some of the most pricey, in the circuit path on a low parts count design.
3. Some of you may have not even attempted trying to hear the difference because some audio intellectual authority figure in your life claimed there was no difference and this authority figure may have a doctorate or high level of engineering education, so they must know what they are talking about and you don't even try.
Well I am telling you as a very experienced recording engineer and audiophile (folks this is a rare combo if you didn't know) that these supposed "learned" people are like virgins telling you they know what sex is about because they read a book. Give resistor testing a try if you haven't actually done so, it may open up a whole new world for you.
4. Have a test that allows you to switch instantly back and forth between the two types of resistors.
5. If all this fails, try the resistor change back and forth test on a small simple tube amp using quality horn speakers, or maybe even some decent quality pa speakers (decent folks, not rolled off honking junk) with a compression driver horn mid and/or compression horn tweeter might do the trick if you don't have access to a high quality horn hi-fi speaker. For some of you it will be a revelation for sure if you have not heard the synergy tubes and horns have. Might change your view of hi-fi completely, the harsh horns suddenly are not so harsh but alive!
Wow! Thanks for the heads up, if the Welwyn W21 even is comparable to a Vishay nude that is saying a lot. I must give those a try as the price is mere pennies next to the Vishay.
I have actually given a good deal of thought lately to those who say they can't hear the difference in resistors and other component changes and I believe I have some sincere answers.
I am not trying to ruffle feathers but only to possibly shine some light for those in the dark to experience the fun (or madness!) some of use are having. Sorry if this is rambling a bit but I found writing this to be more relaxing than watching TV.
1.Check your hearing and your gear-
There are quite a few on line tests if you don't have a tone generator or test cd. The link below has a test that goes from 20-20k, don't use the ones that only go up to 8k as they are good enough for speech but not quite so good for your hi-fi purposes. You will also want to do a search for other online hearing tests that use several different methods of testing such as speech and back round noise.
What is your hearing range? | egopont
If you are not hearing as high as you thought you could, try a few different sets of headphones, instead of speakers.
I can hear up to 19k on most headphones and on a set of ADS speakers that have 3/4" tweeters on my pc. The ADS 3/4" tweeters are supposedly good up to 27K from old spec sheets. I find most speaker companies with 1" dome tweeters just say their speakers go up to 20K for marketing. Your average hi-fi speaker actually trails off around 16-17k being quite a few db down at 20k from my experience unless you have ribbons or some exotic tweeter. I have tested many really expensive tweeters, few make it flat to the top in reality.
2. Try changing a resistor that is directly in the circuit path on a design that is fairly simple. Also try wildly different types of resistors, like a vintage brown colored carbon comp to cheap blue metal film. Low parts count designs are much more dependant on a single component that one with hundreds of resistors. If you are willing to spend a few dollars try a couple of Caddock TF020 or MK132 and or a Vishay nude versus cheap radio shack blue metal films or carbons. There is an absolute huge difference in sound that some may or may not like. The point is the difference is huge and most people with decent hearing should be able to easily tell the difference between the cheapo's and the some of the most pricey, in the circuit path on a low parts count design.
3. Some of you may have not even attempted trying to hear the difference because some audio intellectual authority figure in your life claimed there was no difference and this authority figure may have a doctorate or high level of engineering education, so they must know what they are talking about and you don't even try.
Well I am telling you as a very experienced recording engineer and audiophile (folks this is a rare combo if you didn't know) that these supposed "learned" people are like virgins telling you they know what sex is about because they read a book. Give resistor testing a try if you haven't actually done so, it may open up a whole new world for you.
4. Have a test that allows you to switch instantly back and forth between the two types of resistors.
5. If all this fails, try the resistor change back and forth test on a small simple tube amp using quality horn speakers, or maybe even some decent quality pa speakers (decent folks, not rolled off honking junk) with a compression driver horn mid and/or compression horn tweeter might do the trick if you don't have access to a high quality horn hi-fi speaker. For some of you it will be a revelation for sure if you have not heard the synergy tubes and horns have. Might change your view of hi-fi completely, the harsh horns suddenly are not so harsh but alive!
Last edited by a moderator:
Optical/photo resistors
I looked up "optical" resistors and there was not much info. Apparently they are also called "photo" resistors and there was quite a bit more info.
In the recording studio an optical compressor is one type of audio compression device that uses a photo sensor to reduce level. They are noted for a very smooth level change. I never closely studied the optical design so I didn't realize the optical device was a resistor.
Well how do the optical's sound or don't sound in a conventional audio circuit as a fixed resistor?
I was having trouble finding values under 2k where do you get yours?
and it the specs were a little strange compared to conventional resistors, do they all change resistance or something when light is applied? Do you need a light to operated them?
Wiki definition:photoresistor or light dependent resistor (LDR) is a resistor whose resistance decreases with increasing incident light intensity; in other words, it exhibits photoconductivity.
Thanks for the input.
I looked up "optical" resistors and there was not much info. Apparently they are also called "photo" resistors and there was quite a bit more info.
In the recording studio an optical compressor is one type of audio compression device that uses a photo sensor to reduce level. They are noted for a very smooth level change. I never closely studied the optical design so I didn't realize the optical device was a resistor.
Well how do the optical's sound or don't sound in a conventional audio circuit as a fixed resistor?
I was having trouble finding values under 2k where do you get yours?
and it the specs were a little strange compared to conventional resistors, do they all change resistance or something when light is applied? Do you need a light to operated them?
Wiki definition:photoresistor or light dependent resistor (LDR) is a resistor whose resistance decreases with increasing incident light intensity; in other words, it exhibits photoconductivity.
Thanks for the input.
I understand that optical resistors have been around for a long time. They do not however seem to have been used very much. They have mainly been used as volume attenuators. Within the last few years they have become popular as volume controls (mainly diy) for HiFi. Search Lightspeed Attenuator. This Lightspeed Attenuator and it's derivatives have been very successful. I use one and it is certainly the best volume control I have heard.
All these attenuators have been variable. Uriah Dailey however designed a circuit to enable these attenuators to be of fixed resistance. They are based on the Silonex NSL-32SR2. This optocoupler has four connections, two are the LDR part and the other two the resistive part. It is a sealed unit. Simply put the resistance part varies with the amount of current that is applied to the LDR part. It is therefore possible to apply a certain fixed amount of current to obtain a fixed resistance.
Uriah Dailey explains his circuit here. All credit to him. https://picasaweb.google.com/udailey/ResistorReplacer?authuser=0&feat=directlink#
I have had mixed success using these resistor replacers in the signal path of various circuits. When first set up they provide a definite sonic improvement over metal film resistors. I have however had drifting problems, the resistance would change from the original fixed value over time. This is something that requires further investigation. They are also limited to values below 10k, above this they are unstable. It is also neccessary to check the voltage drop across the resistor to be replaced is below 2.5 volts, over this voltage and you introduce distortion.
I hope this helps.
Paul.
Hi AM
I dunno...I try to avoid 'listening to wire' !
I have used 5% Welwyn ( never shifts from original match ! ).
&
Also 0.1% type from RS Components, for more precise apps.
Not sure who makes it...would have to check...they are costly due to the 0.1% spec.
Not sure about Mills...
...I hear them mentioned here alot...I'm sure they are just as good as any others.
Is Mills an American company ?
It's hard to resist a good resistor !!!
Cheers
Si.
Irresistable !!!
I dunno...I try to avoid 'listening to wire' !
I have used 5% Welwyn ( never shifts from original match ! ).
&
Also 0.1% type from RS Components, for more precise apps.
Not sure who makes it...would have to check...they are costly due to the 0.1% spec.
Not sure about Mills...
...I hear them mentioned here alot...I'm sure they are just as good as any others.
Is Mills an American company ?
It's hard to resist a good resistor !!!
Cheers
Si.
Irresistable !!!
Yes, I believe Mills is an American company that was absorbed by the juggernaut Vishay. Mills wire wounds are sound nice, smooth, clear and classy sounding to me and they take away the harsh edge of a those rectangular sand cast resistors.
Some like the bite of sand cast resistor in low end system to cover up the flaws and give a dull system some zing but I will never use a sand cast resistor anywhere in any system that I listen to if I can help it.
Although Mills costs a bit more than your average resistor I have never been disappointed with the sound in any circuit I have used them in so far....
Now, I have not heard the cast Dueland graphite resistors at around $50 a pop yet. I will try at least a few of the cheaper $25 Dueland resistors on my next high end project.
Price on Dueland resistors and caps and coils is sky high compared to everything else but I suppose if you are trying to build equipment to compete with the finest commercial audio gear out there, I think the price is a mere drop in the bucket price wise compared to the "shock" marketing "you could buy a nice Italian sports car" prices we have these days on some high end audio equipment.
Overwhelming consensus I have seen so far is that the Deuland "cast" components are the finest and most natural sounding caps, resistors and coils out there second to none and in the lead by a nice margin.
Wow, now back to reality....It is fun to dream though.
Some like the bite of sand cast resistor in low end system to cover up the flaws and give a dull system some zing but I will never use a sand cast resistor anywhere in any system that I listen to if I can help it.
Although Mills costs a bit more than your average resistor I have never been disappointed with the sound in any circuit I have used them in so far....
Now, I have not heard the cast Dueland graphite resistors at around $50 a pop yet. I will try at least a few of the cheaper $25 Dueland resistors on my next high end project.
Price on Dueland resistors and caps and coils is sky high compared to everything else but I suppose if you are trying to build equipment to compete with the finest commercial audio gear out there, I think the price is a mere drop in the bucket price wise compared to the "shock" marketing "you could buy a nice Italian sports car" prices we have these days on some high end audio equipment.
Overwhelming consensus I have seen so far is that the Deuland "cast" components are the finest and most natural sounding caps, resistors and coils out there second to none and in the lead by a nice margin.
Wow, now back to reality....It is fun to dream though.
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AM
I trully believe people more often than not, confuse MONEY with QUALITY...
...I do generally also believe you get what you pay for.
But hey...a coil of wire...is a coil of wire...is a coil of wire...
BTW I'm not sure why exactly William put opticals in positions 1 & 9 ( I think it was, 100 Ohms ).
R1 & R9 are not even needed in my opinion.
I would avoid ANY kind of resistance between the cartridge and the JFET gate...
...in fact I would go as far as to solder the JFET's gate DIRECTLY to the RCA phono input socket.
No kiddin'...
...my current phono pre will get that treatment.
Better to have good layout & quality soldering, than a bunch of $$$ wasted on over-hyped components.
OK a challenge...
...build a good preamp, just using parts busted down from a scrap TV set etc...
...totaly & entirely possible.
Gimmie a couple of crap scrap TV's...
...I bet I could make a preamp that you would think cost a GOOD few $'s
( blind test of course, no demolished TV's laying about to spoil the 'High-End' ambience either !!! )
Cheers
Si.
I trully believe people more often than not, confuse MONEY with QUALITY...
...I do generally also believe you get what you pay for.
But hey...a coil of wire...is a coil of wire...is a coil of wire...
BTW I'm not sure why exactly William put opticals in positions 1 & 9 ( I think it was, 100 Ohms ).
R1 & R9 are not even needed in my opinion.
I would avoid ANY kind of resistance between the cartridge and the JFET gate...
...in fact I would go as far as to solder the JFET's gate DIRECTLY to the RCA phono input socket.
No kiddin'...
...my current phono pre will get that treatment.
Better to have good layout & quality soldering, than a bunch of $$$ wasted on over-hyped components.
OK a challenge...
...build a good preamp, just using parts busted down from a scrap TV set etc...
...totaly & entirely possible.
Gimmie a couple of crap scrap TV's...
...I bet I could make a preamp that you would think cost a GOOD few $'s
( blind test of course, no demolished TV's laying about to spoil the 'High-End' ambience either !!! )
Cheers
Si.
Coil winding has been on my mind, winders on ebay start at about $60 for a manual winder without an electric motor (I would get a motor for sure for what I want to do).
I could finally build the 8 mono tube amps with 16+ trannies for a four way all horn system with electronic tube crossover and pre I had in mind. I would need several more transformers for the tube pre amp, crossover, filaments, driver stages, maybe some chokes. Probably 25-30 transformers total!?!!.
This is a lot of transformers and I could control the quality, high purity soft silver wire, etc. best core materials, my choice of bobbin,etc. Being that a silver output transformer is a few thousand bucks or so, this coil winder would be an amazing investment.
Yes a coil winding machine would pay for itself winding one or two trannies, resistors would be icing on the cake.
I could finally build the 8 mono tube amps with 16+ trannies for a four way all horn system with electronic tube crossover and pre I had in mind. I would need several more transformers for the tube pre amp, crossover, filaments, driver stages, maybe some chokes. Probably 25-30 transformers total!?!!.
This is a lot of transformers and I could control the quality, high purity soft silver wire, etc. best core materials, my choice of bobbin,etc. Being that a silver output transformer is a few thousand bucks or so, this coil winder would be an amazing investment.
Yes a coil winding machine would pay for itself winding one or two trannies, resistors would be icing on the cake.
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