These values are ok. The output variation will get smaller with better thermal coupling and some time, the rest is just fine.
Make before break. Doesnt matter much though. I would turn down the volume before switching if you switch while the system is running.
This is what I used:
A20605RNCQ C&K Components | Mouser
It is break before make, works fine. Silver contacts to kill those sound vampires in my system
A20605RNCQ C&K Components | Mouser
It is break before make, works fine. Silver contacts to kill those sound vampires in my system
This is another option that I am experimenting with:
precisionpoti. 10 Gänge, 5,0 K-Ohm 534-5,0K - Präzisionspoti. 10 Gänge, 5,0 K-Ohm bei reichelt elektronik
precisionpoti. 10 Gänge, 5,0 K-Ohm 534-5,0K - Präzisionspoti. 10 Gänge, 5,0 K-Ohm bei reichelt elektronik
Very nice, but mono - what are your results regarding channel-to-channel variations? Do you couple them mechanically? Or maybe using one of those fancy 10-turn mechanical indicators?
KNOPF 534-30 - Runder Getriebedrehknopf, digital, 6,3mm-Achse bei reichelt elektronik
This one is cheaper: KNOPF 534-11 - Runder Getriebeknopf, analog, für 6,3mm-Achse bei reichelt elektronik
Anyway, I measure both channels with a dmm. It is not very pratical because once the pot is connected to the input, there is a residual current even if the psu is disconnected... takes a long time to settle
But it sounds really good.... loads of detail and attack.
Anyway, I measure both channels with a dmm. It is not very pratical because once the pot is connected to the input, there is a residual current even if the psu is disconnected... takes a long time to settle
But it sounds really good.... loads of detail and attack.
I've just added a second RCA pair in parallel with the input. I can plug there whatever R I need. The problems with the switch in CX1000 convinced me to avoid as much as possible this kind of elements in the low level path.
For the moment I have connected there the recommended load by the cartridge producer. And I don't intend to change that. I did not switch off the Paradise since the moment I have integrated it into the main system (around end of May, IIRC).
For the moment I have connected there the recommended load by the cartridge producer. And I don't intend to change that. I did not switch off the Paradise since the moment I have integrated it into the main system (around end of May, IIRC).
@metallicus69: just checked the pictures of your build, beautiful! you obviously put a lot of effort into this. I am sure it sounds great!
@kamis: These pots are wirewound, not cermet. Over at the "Blowtorch 2" thread there was a lot of (somewhat philosophical) debate over what is better, no intention to repeat it here. But some swear by the possibility of finetuning the loading resistance.
One Paradise builder asked about loading capacitance, typically not an issue with MC carts due to the low impedance. The values suggested were between 220pF...2nF. Thoughts?
@kamis: These pots are wirewound, not cermet. Over at the "Blowtorch 2" thread there was a lot of (somewhat philosophical) debate over what is better, no intention to repeat it here. But some swear by the possibility of finetuning the loading resistance.
One Paradise builder asked about loading capacitance, typically not an issue with MC carts due to the low impedance. The values suggested were between 220pF...2nF. Thoughts?
He sender, I've tried from a couple of hundred pF up to 3.3n. Maybe 20 or so combinations along with resistor values from 20r to 4k. While my Benz LP doesn't care what it is loaded with the Lyra Kleos I had last week certainly preferred a lower loading than my 2k 2.2n. It seemed happiest around 600r and 500pf.
Thanks for your remarks!
In the next build I intend to cool down the input transistors using a peltier element and a similar arrangement. But I have still other projects to finish, so that build will wait. On the other hand, I have to think how to thermally isolate the cooled trannies form the hot outside world, how to supply the cooling element and lots of related challenges, so I am not into a hurry. I will use some ancient low Rbb' trannies that I don't have spares for, and that tells me I need to plan even better this whole build.
First things first! I have a very silent high end phono stage that really needs some good company I feel the potential of Paradise is still not fully revealed in actual configuration. The sound improved a lot with passage of time, but I also need to work out the rest
In the next build I intend to cool down the input transistors using a peltier element and a similar arrangement. But I have still other projects to finish, so that build will wait. On the other hand, I have to think how to thermally isolate the cooled trannies form the hot outside world, how to supply the cooling element and lots of related challenges, so I am not into a hurry. I will use some ancient low Rbb' trannies that I don't have spares for, and that tells me I need to plan even better this whole build.
First things first! I have a very silent high end phono stage that really needs some good company
I feel the potential of Paradise is still not fully revealed in actual configuration. The sound improved a lot with passage of time, but I also need to work out the rest
Cartridge loading results are system dependent, you would surely be surprised if you would experiment with different loadings.
A wirewound pot has virtually no excess noise and should have low distortion.
One problem with a Peltier is that water can condense when you use a close box.
The reduction in noise will be minimal.
One guy made an experiment and he found ca. 1dB at -60° Celsius.
When you want to really reduce noise you have to cool to much lower voltages.
It has being done in physics labs.
One problem with a Peltier is that water can condense when you use a close box.
The reduction in noise will be minimal.
One guy made an experiment and he found ca. 1dB at -60° Celsius.
When you want to really reduce noise you have to cool to much lower voltages.
It has being done in physics labs.