Paradise Builders

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Yes the boards are double layer (Thanks Benedetto). They do have markings in the corners for mounting holes, that are not drilled since it was unclear which type of screws people would use. But you can safely drill there, no wires in that space (and no ground plane - watch out for unwanted ground connections when putting metal screws in other places on the PCB!!)
 
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Its probably good enough to glue a U-shaped piece of copper on top of the transistors (using superglue). Have not tried this, though. At some point we were considering a "heatsink"-like piece of aluminum, wiht holes where the transistors are, but it never went anywhere.
 
Hi,

one question regarding the 4 100/16 capacitors. I still have some Black Gate N and I could use it for those areas. The RM does not fit 100%. However, they are non polar

1) can I use them
2) does it make sense to use them at this location (I like to use them, not to waste them). :)

The 10/16 and 10/25 will be Elna RFS. Anything, which tells me, that I should use slower capacitors. Like Panasonic FM, FR etc.?

Many thanks, tom
 
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Hi,

one question regarding the 4 100/16 capacitors. I still have some Black Gate N and I could use it for those areas. The RM does not fit 100%. However, they are non polar

1) can I use them
2) does it make sense to use them at this location (I like to use them, not to waste them). :)

The 10/16 and 10/25 will be Elna RFS. Anything, which tells me, that I should use slower capacitors. Like Panasonic FM, FR etc.?

Many thanks, tom

Hi Tom,

my take would be that C103/C203 would benefit from "good" caps, whereas C100/C200 can be regular elcaps - these are "isolated" from the rest of the circuit with rather large resistors so their influence is less.

On the 10uF caps, you can certainly try the Elna RFS. I have used Panasonic FM (or similar) with good results. There are some concerns that a "too good" cap at this spot (especially C105/C205) can cause the shunt to oscillate, but I did not find that to happen (the blocking caps at the mirrors are even lower high frequency impedance anyway). So just try and see if it works......


just my two cents
 
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You see, the great PCB spirit heard our plea.:)
BTW, are those parallel 33.3n and 11n designations some picks advised to be made from a bunch of 33n and 10n standard caps with an LCR, or just to be measured as a total 1% parts based capacitance after installation and supplemented with some small extra one(s) if necessary? A couple of 100n and a 22n even?

:D

The "calculated" values are 33.3n and 11n. There should be enough space on the PCB to acommodate these values with paralleling caps so you get the exact values, as good as possible. In my build I used 100pF and 220pF caps in addition to bigger caps to add up to just the right number. More important however than the absolute value is to get it right between the two channels so you get the stereo imaging right.

just my two cents.... this stuff should really be discussed in the "Paradise Builders" thread:

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analogue-source/218625-paradise-builders-25.html
 
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Updated assembly guide

See attached, this is just a little update regarding the RIAA components:

The values in the schematic are the total values (for both R and C), so in order to get there put as many caps in parallel as needed, same for the resistors.
 

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  • Paradise R3 assembly guide.pdf
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Hi Stephan, no there is no balanced out. you would have to use a differential amplifier or transformer for that. I believe there is a fully balanced version in the works, not sure it is done yet.
(Shouldnt say this here, but I am using a FPS from Joachim Gerhard at home, which is fully balanced from input to output - it sounds very very nice, but the Paradise has something special that makes it somewhat outstanding to my ears.....)