Hi Phillip,
Did you wash the tank itself with soap and water? A lot of crap can get deposited on the walls of an ultrasonic tank, especially a used one like you procured. If you haven't already done so, clean it well with soap and or stainless steel cleaner, and rinse thoroughly.
Cheers,
B B
Since I last posted I've acquired an USC kit for the sole purpose of cleaning my vinyl record collection. This note deals only with filtering and water quality, given the interest in the last few posts. Later on I will mention some issues I encountered with a USC machine made overseas. However, I recommend that everyone read the latest post (#3) on The Vinyl Press by Tima, on updates to his system and his routine for cleaning vinyl records using a USC.
My system for all intents and purposes follows Tima's. But I have some different equipment from his system and I benefited a month or so ago from a recommendation he made on filtering. So I wanted to touch on these in this note.
My system actively filters the USC cleaning solution of 10 liters of distilled water, 312 ml IPA (99%) and 13 ml of Ilfotol wetting agent. I keep the IPA to about 3% of total solution and monitor that volume using a specific gravity bulb gauge (beer making equipment). My routine is nearly exactly what Tima recommends, but with a Vinyl Stack (4 lps at a time) stand. The Vinyl Stack has the ability to rotate the lps at different speeds, but the slowest is still faster than what Tima uses.
About the filtering: from the USC tank I connect to an Italian made Sicce Syncra Silent 0.5 non-submersible aquarium pump. This very quite small hand-sized pump moves the solution at ~170 gallons per minute. I purchased this pump at a local aquarium shop, on sale actually, for $21. This workhouse is fantastic, no leaks, and nearly silent.
After the pump, the solution enters a Pentek slimline 10" filter housing with its clear plastic "tank" bottom. I got this unit with 3/8" inlet and outlet fittings. The filter I use was recommended by Tima; the 0.35 micron Flow Max FM-0.35-975 2-1/2" x 9-3/4" pleated filter.
I just recently cleaned 48 records in one day. As Tima reports, the solution is filtered very well and remains remarkably clear. His article shows ppm concentrations, extremely low numbers as he measured. After cleaning nearly 50 lps, I opened the filter housing to inspect the pleated filter and the water remaining in the Pentek tank. After shaking it up a bit to put into solution any dirt, the color of the liquid turned cloudy, like a well-known wheat beer, if you know what I mean. I dumped the yellowish-gray spoil, removed the filter to wash it. Technically, Flow Max specifications show that this very fine (0.35) micron filter is not washable, but I did wash it with the force of water from a tap. I washed it inside and out, and put it back in the tank to swish it back and forth to dislodge and remove as much filtered debris as possible. In the filter pleats I did observe some very small dark bits, presumably particles removed by the cleaning process. Unfortunately, I was not able to remove all debris in this washing routine. Then I rinsed the Pentek tank and the Flow Max filter with distilled water and put the kit back together.
Based on this experience, I definitely recommend using a filter for USC tank solutions. It is easy to find the parts, it does not cost that much (~$75, the full price of the Sicce pump is $42), and it is incredibly effective. Further, filtering removes particles that otherwise will damage an lp if maintained in the USC tank during operation. Consider inspecting the filter after say 25 to 30 lp cleanings. Dump the filter tank contents and rinse off the filter itself. Then top up the solution and begin again. After treating 75 to 100 lps, I would replace all of the solution in the system, start over with fresh distilled water, IPA, and Ilfotol.
I'll add that I air dry the 4 lps that are cleaned at a time. It takes about 20 minutes. I see absolutely no residue on the lps, particularly on the slice that is wet when I pull the kit from the USC tank. They are really clean. And they sound phenomenal.
At any rate, read Tima's great update as published in Bill Hart's The Vinyl Press.
My system for all intents and purposes follows Tima's. But I have some different equipment from his system and I benefited a month or so ago from a recommendation he made on filtering. So I wanted to touch on these in this note.
My system actively filters the USC cleaning solution of 10 liters of distilled water, 312 ml IPA (99%) and 13 ml of Ilfotol wetting agent. I keep the IPA to about 3% of total solution and monitor that volume using a specific gravity bulb gauge (beer making equipment). My routine is nearly exactly what Tima recommends, but with a Vinyl Stack (4 lps at a time) stand. The Vinyl Stack has the ability to rotate the lps at different speeds, but the slowest is still faster than what Tima uses.
About the filtering: from the USC tank I connect to an Italian made Sicce Syncra Silent 0.5 non-submersible aquarium pump. This very quite small hand-sized pump moves the solution at ~170 gallons per minute. I purchased this pump at a local aquarium shop, on sale actually, for $21. This workhouse is fantastic, no leaks, and nearly silent.
After the pump, the solution enters a Pentek slimline 10" filter housing with its clear plastic "tank" bottom. I got this unit with 3/8" inlet and outlet fittings. The filter I use was recommended by Tima; the 0.35 micron Flow Max FM-0.35-975 2-1/2" x 9-3/4" pleated filter.
I just recently cleaned 48 records in one day. As Tima reports, the solution is filtered very well and remains remarkably clear. His article shows ppm concentrations, extremely low numbers as he measured. After cleaning nearly 50 lps, I opened the filter housing to inspect the pleated filter and the water remaining in the Pentek tank. After shaking it up a bit to put into solution any dirt, the color of the liquid turned cloudy, like a well-known wheat beer, if you know what I mean. I dumped the yellowish-gray spoil, removed the filter to wash it. Technically, Flow Max specifications show that this very fine (0.35) micron filter is not washable, but I did wash it with the force of water from a tap. I washed it inside and out, and put it back in the tank to swish it back and forth to dislodge and remove as much filtered debris as possible. In the filter pleats I did observe some very small dark bits, presumably particles removed by the cleaning process. Unfortunately, I was not able to remove all debris in this washing routine. Then I rinsed the Pentek tank and the Flow Max filter with distilled water and put the kit back together.
Based on this experience, I definitely recommend using a filter for USC tank solutions. It is easy to find the parts, it does not cost that much (~$75, the full price of the Sicce pump is $42), and it is incredibly effective. Further, filtering removes particles that otherwise will damage an lp if maintained in the USC tank during operation. Consider inspecting the filter after say 25 to 30 lp cleanings. Dump the filter tank contents and rinse off the filter itself. Then top up the solution and begin again. After treating 75 to 100 lps, I would replace all of the solution in the system, start over with fresh distilled water, IPA, and Ilfotol.
I'll add that I air dry the 4 lps that are cleaned at a time. It takes about 20 minutes. I see absolutely no residue on the lps, particularly on the slice that is wet when I pull the kit from the USC tank. They are really clean. And they sound phenomenal.
At any rate, read Tima's great update as published in Bill Hart's The Vinyl Press.
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The Art of Attachment
Hello, all!
I became interested in USM cleaning about 5 years ago, left for Indonesia (doing NGO work and teaching), and am now picking up that interest again. I found this discussion thread - what a gold mine! Am working through, now on p. 35.
Unfortunately, many of the old attachments are gone, including BB's part lists. If some kind soul could "sticky" a post with durable attachments to the beginning of this thread I'm sure that would be of immense service to many. Alternately, if anyone has saved that information and would pass it on, either by reposting with a new attachment or PM'ing me, that would be terrific.
I hope to post and contribute to the conversation here soon.
Be well,
waldemar
Hello, all!
I became interested in USM cleaning about 5 years ago, left for Indonesia (doing NGO work and teaching), and am now picking up that interest again. I found this discussion thread - what a gold mine! Am working through, now on p. 35.
Unfortunately, many of the old attachments are gone, including BB's part lists. If some kind soul could "sticky" a post with durable attachments to the beginning of this thread I'm sure that would be of immense service to many. Alternately, if anyone has saved that information and would pass it on, either by reposting with a new attachment or PM'ing me, that would be terrific.
I hope to post and contribute to the conversation here soon.
Be well,
waldemar
Hi Waldemar,
It's unfortunate that many of the attachments were stripped. I think that happened a few months back when one of the admins mistakenly deleted the entire thread instead of a single violating message. When restored, the thread seemed to be missing attachments.
I reposted the version 2 and version 3 parts list here:
BB's Part Lists for v2 and v3
Some of the parts aren't available anymore, and there've been some alternative pumps found in the mean time too --- there are lots of options!
Cheers,
B B
It's unfortunate that many of the attachments were stripped. I think that happened a few months back when one of the admins mistakenly deleted the entire thread instead of a single violating message. When restored, the thread seemed to be missing attachments.
I reposted the version 2 and version 3 parts list here:
BB's Part Lists for v2 and v3
Some of the parts aren't available anymore, and there've been some alternative pumps found in the mean time too --- there are lots of options!
Cheers,
B B
Hi Merlin,
Not sure what's up with the link, but I was able to track back to p. 191 of the thread (My version of an Ultrasonic Record Cleaner) and there are actually a couple of posts where BB kindly reposted things for us.
Hope this helps,
Waldemar
Not sure what's up with the link, but I was able to track back to p. 191 of the thread (My version of an Ultrasonic Record Cleaner) and there are actually a couple of posts where BB kindly reposted things for us.
Hope this helps,
Waldemar
Let’s try the link again for version 2 and version 3 parts lists
B B’s URC Parts Lists v2 and v3.
Cheers, BB
B B’s URC Parts Lists v2 and v3.
Cheers, BB
Hi guys been building aluminum over top bridge for the records. I just got a grizzly 6 liter unit and it looks great. Hope it works as well as it looks.
I have a question about water fill line. Grizzly did not know and I searched all over the web. It seems like 1 inch from the top came up twice on 2 different units and mine has a rim for the basket which is 1 inch from the top.
Is the I inch about what your machines are using???
Thanks in advance
Tom
I have a question about water fill line. Grizzly did not know and I searched all over the web. It seems like 1 inch from the top came up twice on 2 different units and mine has a rim for the basket which is 1 inch from the top.
Is the I inch about what your machines are using???
Thanks in advance
Tom
The water level should be high enough so that it is in the run-out grooves - ie. not quite up as far as the label but more than the last music groove.
Andy
Hi Tom,
Each model of cleaner has its own optimal fill height.
In general you don't have to worry too much about overfilling. Under-filling can create more problems, particularly if you are using a tank with a heater.
I'm not real familiar with the Grizzly unit you have, but there are pictures on the web showing there is a max fill line and min fill line in the tank. Does your tank not have a line labeled "Max"? If not use the attached photo as a guide to estimate the proper max fill height. I've circled the position of the max fill line.
Cheers,
B B
Each model of cleaner has its own optimal fill height.
In general you don't have to worry too much about overfilling. Under-filling can create more problems, particularly if you are using a tank with a heater.
I'm not real familiar with the Grizzly unit you have, but there are pictures on the web showing there is a max fill line and min fill line in the tank. Does your tank not have a line labeled "Max"? If not use the attached photo as a guide to estimate the proper max fill height. I've circled the position of the max fill line.
Cheers,
B B
Attachments
You realise, Tom, that the LP(s) you are cleaning is/are held on a spindle which has a support structure which sits higher than the tank?
As the support structure you use might be different to, say, the support structure which I use … there's not much point me telling you whereabouts on my tank, the water level is.
What is important is that the groove annulus should be entirely below the water level - but not so deep that the edge of the label gets wet.
Why don't you mount an LP on your spindle, put it on your support structure and then keep filling up the tank until you get the level just into the run-out grooves. Then you can see how this level compares to your 2 lines.
Andy
Aah, OK, Tom. I've just got home from work and measured the mark I put at each end of the tank; they are 3/4" down.
Andy
Tom,
For this type of unit, the shoulder in the tank is the fill line. Just make sure you cover the shoulder in the tank with the top of the liquid. That's your min. fill line. This is especially important for a unit with a heater, which it appears this model comes with.
B B
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Thanks B B
That was my guess. Have not gone thru the whole thread yet. On the pump and filter set up are you still using that surplus house one ( does not look available anymore) or something else. I like your 1 micron idea better than Harry's aquarium plus coffee filter. Of course I have never done either so I am all ears.
I am all ears on the motor pump combo for a 1 micron filter also.
Thanks again for one outstanding thread
Tom
That was my guess. Have not gone thru the whole thread yet. On the pump and filter set up are you still using that surplus house one ( does not look available anymore) or something else. I like your 1 micron idea better than Harry's aquarium plus coffee filter. Of course I have never done either so I am all ears.
I am all ears on the motor pump combo for a 1 micron filter also.
Thanks again for one outstanding thread
Tom