Thanks B B,
I got the filtering system hooked up temporarily (I'm waiting for a pump enclosure to arrive from Hong Kong) and it appears to have plenty of power. It goes through half inch tubing and a 1 micron filter in a steady stream that agitates the water quite a bit. The pressure rating is 35 psi. I put a ball valve on the filter output in case I needed to restrict the flow, but the pump growls a lot louder when it is restricted (It's a bit noisy to begin with). I haven't timed how fast it empties the tank yet. Does the flowing water in the tank interfere with the ultrasonic process at all?
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Hi Kywoman,
If you have a drill press you could buy 1/4" collars and drill them to 9/32".
You could go with a 5/16" collar which is only 1/32" bigger (link below). With the set screw you would be able to tighten quite effectively. Finding 9/32" components is virtually nonexistant.
https://www.servocity.com/html/aluminum_set_screw_collars.html#.VITEb2t5mSM
https://www.servocity.com/html/aluminum_set_screw_collars.html#.VITEb2t5mSM
OK, the tank came a few minutes ago. Glad it's light to move around as it will be under a sink much of the time. I just need to get the coupler, cork to hold it all together and a nut as a stop. What do you guys use as the stop on the end of the rod so you don't need to thread a screw each time?, steel rod and shrinkwrap I guess. Then I need to figure out the best and easiest way to make a platform to hold the motor in a casing and the rod/records. I"m ready to do this thing. I have a full wood working shop and can do anything with wood or plastic or even aluminum as I can cut it on my table or even band saw I guess.
CT You can use a 1/4 x 20 through hole knob which you can get at Lowes, Home Depot etc. or online. Image link below. Knob spins on and off pretty quickly.
Buy Knob, Five Star with Through Hole, 1/4"-20 Insert at Woodcraft.com
Buy Knob, Five Star with Through Hole, 1/4"-20 Insert at Woodcraft.com
YEs, thanks... What I was thinking, but I don't want to recreate things either. I have a full set of these from Woodpecker as I build lot's of jigs. With the MS, I can follow directions really well, but it's nearly impossible for me to come up with creative ways to do things now days. All the help is awesome. I'm about to get a new Ayre phono pre and I'll be able to hear the differences big time (if there are any)....My Ilford photo stuff just came too. All I need is the alcohol and water and to build out this holder.
Question I have is if I use a threaded rod with the shrink wrap, then how can I use this knob (I just realized that I'd have to have the rod threaded and I worry that putting the albums on the rod would be bad. I could just use a non threaded rod and grind flats and use the screw collar on both sides of the rod with cork spacers. That would be quick too. Any reasons that wouldn't work? Thanks guys. Love this thread.
Question I have is if I use a threaded rod with the shrink wrap, then how can I use this knob (I just realized that I'd have to have the rod threaded and I worry that putting the albums on the rod would be bad. I could just use a non threaded rod and grind flats and use the screw collar on both sides of the rod with cork spacers. That would be quick too. Any reasons that wouldn't work? Thanks guys. Love this thread.
I'm not a big fan of using threaded rod for a spindle, even if it's covered with shrink-wrap. If you're using cork spacers, they will hold everything in place without any other stop, as long as you don't oversize the hole. This will work whether you're using a 9/32 rod or ¼" rod.
Cheers,
B B
This seems like the best workaround - I did this for plastic spacers on the spindle, but didn't think to do the same for the collars. Thanks!
Hi guys,
I have a solution for the problem of the Shaft......both in the UK & USA..
Whilst pondering thoughts of me Mam
knitting me another bobble hat for Xmass I realised that a knitting needle would be just right for the job either plastic or in aluminium, & they come in 6mm dia just slightly smaller than the record spindle, & 35cm long so more than adequate :grin: 9/32" x 12" approximately.
Sizes would be a No 4 UK or No 10 USA sizes & only cost a cpl of quid for a pair. So its off to a local knitting shop soon :laugh:
I have a solution for the problem of the Shaft......both in the UK & USA..
Whilst pondering thoughts of me Mam
knitting me another bobble hat for Xmass I realised that a knitting needle would be just right for the job either plastic or in aluminium, & they come in 6mm dia just slightly smaller than the record spindle, & 35cm long so more than adequate :grin: 9/32" x 12" approximately.Sizes would be a No 4 UK or No 10 USA sizes & only cost a cpl of quid for a pair. So its off to a local knitting shop soon :laugh:
Hi Jay,
I like your thought process, but in the UK, you could get a 7mm knitting needle, (a No.2 in UK terms). 7mm is closer to the record spindle spec. of .281 inches (9/32")!
In the US, quarter-inch alternatives are readily available and are a little closer to the spec than 6mm. Metric stuff is often more expensive in the States too.
The only commercially available product I've found in the States that has shaft diameter of 9/32" are some underwater spear gun shafts.
But the shafting isn't the obstacle. It's good couplers/connectors. I couldn't find really suitable spear shaft couplers connectors that would work, but maybe they exist.
So in the UK, you're back to 6mm, because 7mm couplers are rarer than 9/32 stuff here. And you can get proper shafting and couplers in 6mm without having to go the knitting needle route!
At the end of the day, I am currently mulling over magnetic solutions. A good solution might be able to eliminate the couplings sizing issue and allow a builder to use the properly sized 0.281 inch shaft.
Cheers,
B B
I like your thought process, but in the UK, you could get a 7mm knitting needle, (a No.2 in UK terms). 7mm is closer to the record spindle spec. of .281 inches (9/32")!
In the US, quarter-inch alternatives are readily available and are a little closer to the spec than 6mm. Metric stuff is often more expensive in the States too.
The only commercially available product I've found in the States that has shaft diameter of 9/32" are some underwater spear gun shafts.
But the shafting isn't the obstacle. It's good couplers/connectors. I couldn't find really suitable spear shaft couplers connectors that would work, but maybe they exist.
So in the UK, you're back to 6mm, because 7mm couplers are rarer than 9/32 stuff here. And you can get proper shafting and couplers in 6mm without having to go the knitting needle route!
At the end of the day, I am currently mulling over magnetic solutions. A good solution might be able to eliminate the couplings sizing issue and allow a builder to use the properly sized 0.281 inch shaft.
Cheers,
B B
Hi all!
Frustrated with my ineffective yet incredibly time consuming disc doctor cleaning system, I recently fell into a google black hole, going from UC cleaning, and emerging in this thread. I'm sold on the tech - faster than manual, quiet and compact for my apartment, and rave reviews. After pouring over this thread, and the precursor to it, I took the plunge and bought a cheap used Whaledent Biosonic UC-110 Ultrasonic cleaner on ebay.
The UC110 is a 55khz machine with a basin that is 3.75 inches deep ~just~ big enough for a record (early indications look like its ok for most, but a maybe touch too shallow for deep records). I chose 55khz to 1) be more gentle on my records and 2) the price was right on this one. some fast cleans with tap water have been enouraging so now I'm going to get serious about this project.
I have a three 1/4" rods to use as spindles. they will be suspended temporarily by Lego bricks built to the correct height, until I can figure out a pretty solution... (love that ammo box cleaner!)
I had a few questions for the experts here:
1) Is there a consensus on the best cleaning solution? I logically think that pure distilled water is best, but people here have suggested to add some alcohol and a few drops of photoflo. What purpose do these two additions serve? To me it just sounds like chemicals to dry on your records
2) I drilled some holes in some small corks but am having issues with the records slipping instead of rotating (when going by hand). Those giant cork plugs on the UK site are pricey to ship to Canada, so before I buy, would the increased friction be more effective? I don't want to waste my money and have my records keep slipping!
3) I am planning to buy the Herbach and Rademan AC motor for ease of implementation. Should I go 5 RPH or 6RPH?
4) where can I source a simple 1/4" to 1/8" shaft coupler on the internet? (is that what the piece is called to connect the shaft to the motor?) anyway the hardware store in town doesn't have one and I'm not sure where to go online
Frustrated with my ineffective yet incredibly time consuming disc doctor cleaning system, I recently fell into a google black hole, going from UC cleaning, and emerging in this thread. I'm sold on the tech - faster than manual, quiet and compact for my apartment, and rave reviews. After pouring over this thread, and the precursor to it, I took the plunge and bought a cheap used Whaledent Biosonic UC-110 Ultrasonic cleaner on ebay.
The UC110 is a 55khz machine with a basin that is 3.75 inches deep ~just~ big enough for a record (early indications look like its ok for most, but a maybe touch too shallow for deep records). I chose 55khz to 1) be more gentle on my records and 2) the price was right on this one. some fast cleans with tap water have been enouraging so now I'm going to get serious about this project.
I have a three 1/4" rods to use as spindles. they will be suspended temporarily by Lego bricks built to the correct height, until I can figure out a pretty solution... (love that ammo box cleaner!)
I had a few questions for the experts here:
1) Is there a consensus on the best cleaning solution? I logically think that pure distilled water is best, but people here have suggested to add some alcohol and a few drops of photoflo. What purpose do these two additions serve? To me it just sounds like chemicals to dry on your records
2) I drilled some holes in some small corks but am having issues with the records slipping instead of rotating (when going by hand). Those giant cork plugs on the UK site are pricey to ship to Canada, so before I buy, would the increased friction be more effective? I don't want to waste my money and have my records keep slipping!
3) I am planning to buy the Herbach and Rademan AC motor for ease of implementation. Should I go 5 RPH or 6RPH?
4) where can I source a simple 1/4" to 1/8" shaft coupler on the internet? (is that what the piece is called to connect the shaft to the motor?) anyway the hardware store in town doesn't have one and I'm not sure where to go online
Hi BB,
Like your thinking too. In the UK metric sizes are now much easier so thats why I was thinking 6mm shaft & couplers. But as you have now proposed magnetic coupling it becomes a mute point, as we can use any size shaft/coupling we want, Inspired thinking. May I suggest glueing one round magnet to the end of the shaft & one to the drive system problem solved !
ps. last time I went through Austin it was 110deg & no air con .....
Like your thinking too. In the UK metric sizes are now much easier so thats why I was thinking 6mm shaft & couplers. But as you have now proposed magnetic coupling it becomes a mute point, as we can use any size shaft/coupling we want, Inspired thinking. May I suggest glueing one round magnet to the end of the shaft & one to the drive system problem solved !
ps. last time I went through Austin it was 110deg & no air con .....
Spyre,
If you can find Triton X 114 then use that instead of photoflo. It is used a surficant so water doesn't bead and slides off. Only a couple drps are needed. I found some on Ebay.
As far as motor goe a 6rph 1/10th rpm motor will be fine. In fact you can get one at All Electronics for aorund 5 bucks. It has a 1/4 inch shaft. You can buy either coupler (1/8-1/4 or 1/4-1/4) at Servo City. Links below.
https://www.servocity.com/html/set_screw_shaft_couplers.html#.VJTfst_2wIA
1/10 RPM SYNCHRONOUS MOTOR, 115VAC | All Electronics Corp.
I was able to buy 9/32" Stainless steel rod on eBay for a very reasonable price. you could turn one end down to 1/4" with a grinder to fit a coupler. it would not take much really. you could probably mount the rod in a drill and take a file to it or some sand paper just to turn the end of it down to fit.