My version of an Ultrasonic Record Cleaner

For the express purpose of further expanding the DIY knowledge base here is some info I have determined and use:
I am using the Servocity .5 RPM motor at 12 VDC, Part Number 638142,
Servocity Model Number is RZ12-3000-05RPM
Depending on your design, you may want to also purchase the 1-3/8 inch Bore Clamping Motor Mount Part # 8871T37
Connecting it to a very inexpensive 2 amp max bench type selectable power supply ($20) and "selecting" the different voltages, here is what I came up with for rotation times:
12 VDC = Complete Revolution 2 minutes
9 VDC = Complete Revolution 2 minutes 46 Seconds
7.5 VDC = Complete Revolution 3 minutes 22 Seconds
6 VDC = Complete Revolution 4 minutes 23 Seconds
4.5 VDC = Complete Revolution 6 minutes 15 Seconds
3 VDC = No rotation
I commonly use the 4.5 VDC. Power supply does fine
Power Supply from Parts Express is number 120-536 ($19.90 often cheaper on sale)
 
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But indeed the noise is quickly becoming very irritating...

When I purchased my first cleaner it was a 40Khz version and if I was sitting next to it, usually I had to wear hearing protection. The noise really got to me. Fortunately for me, it had a drainage sealing problem and I sent it back for a full refund as it was within 30 days of purchase.

I replaced it with "Sonix 4" 60Khz at twice the price. The noise level is much much lower and not irritating at all when sitting next to it. Maybe its the build, but mostly I believe it is the frequency or harmonics of the 60 Khz.
 
The following information is for the express purpose of further expanding the DIY knowledge base here and to show that it is not hard to build a simple rack around your ultrsonic cleaner. You will not offend me if you laugh at my woodworking skills. I blame my limited tools and space. Gotta blame something. Next time it will be more professional. Take your time.

Notes: The cork coasters are from Walmart for around $3.70 for 4 coasters, buy 2 packs of 4. They cover the label from getting wet and are used as record spacers.

The 1 inch white nylon connector pieces were $0.70 each at a good hardware store, they have a 1/4 " inside diameter. I use one as a smooth support bearing for the wooden dowell when the records are loaded and the other one as a connection piece from the wooden dowell to the motor shaft. The white nyon connector is held in place to the wooden dowell at the shaft location by a cotter pin. The small lightshade brass screw inserted through the nylon piece, is placed so the screw tip is over the flat of the motor shaft to allow the rotational force of the motor shaft to transfer to the wooden dowel allowing the records to rotate in the tank.

The 1/4 inch hardwood wooden dowell (oat in my case) was cheap-cannot remember the price at Home Depot, but you have to look at many and roll them on a flat counter to find one that is not curved from moisture.

Each upright oak leg has a 2 to 3 inch long hole bored into the middle from the bottom only to allow the leg adjustment device to work. The 3/8" all thead rod is inserted up into the hollowed area of the leg to allow the leg(s) to be raised up or down to adjust the glued platform connected at the top of the legs. The motor platform is built the same way. Having both front and back platforms adjustable will allow you to get the height perfect and level for the dowel to be parallel across the tank and the records high enough to keep the label out of the water.

The wooden dowels holding the records can be inserted so much easier through the cork and record centers if you put one end in a pencil sharpener. It allows you to hit the center holes easier.

The black binder clips help to maintain cork pressure against the records so record slippage does not occur during rotation. Initially you may not need the clips, but the more records you clean the more worn the cork holes become.

The Barista thermometer is used for monitoring the tank temperature. The heater on this unit is manually switched on or off, there is no temperature controller other than me.
 
I did the aluminum foil test and it is perforated in less than 10 seconds, so I guess the device is working properly.
But indeed the noise is quickly becoming very irritating...
Any input from other same make cleaners is much appreciated.

Hi dimkasta.
I have the same machine and the same noise even if mine does not generate such low frequency oscillating components. I'm pretty sure that the noise is not related to a malfunction. I've done the aluminium foils test with same results as your. If noise is not a concern for you I would keep and use it without any problem.
 
Here is my simple, cheap and timesaving design.
It took about a couple of hours for me to assemble the whole.
For who does not have too many tools such as a lathe and wants a versatile machine allowing to remove the entire shaft after the cleaning operations.
If interested I can post details of components.
 
The motor is 5 RPM (not very cheap indeed) but the gear is 1:2 so it is reduced to 2.5 RPM at 12 V. The pulsed regulator can reduce the voltage to 3 V keeping the torque and reducing the speed to 20 RPH.
Here is the parts list:

Gear box
RS Code 0196-0781

Voltage Regulator
RS Code 417-9728

Gear 20 Teeth
RS Code 521-6137

Gear 40 Teeth
RS Code 521-6121
 
Here is my simple, cheap and timesaving design.
It took about a couple of hours for me to assemble the whole.
For who does not have too many tools such as a lathe and wants a versatile machine allowing to remove the entire shaft after the cleaning operations.
If interested I can post details of components.

Wanna just say thanks to some contributors of Hifisentralen for inspiring my work.
 
Here is my simple, cheap and timesaving design.
It took about a couple of hours for me to assemble the whole.
For who does not have too many tools such as a lathe and wants a versatile machine allowing to remove the entire shaft after the cleaning operations.
If interested I can post details of components.

I love that idea of a right angle drive. Can you give some more details regarding the motor and gears? I couldn't find a source.
 
• a nice little fan cooled, very quiet, inline, centrifugal pump originally designed for use in beverage dispensers. $15 from SurplusCenter.
• 1 micron polypropylene 2.5"x5" filter used in small home water systems $3

Is this pump enough to support a 1 micron filter?
I see over the internet that typically at least 1,5 Kg/cm^2 pressure is required to support 1 um filters that is to say 15 mH2O.
The pump you are using seems very small indeed to deliver such a pressure.
 
Pump and Filter

Is this pump enough to support a 1 micron filter?
I see over the internet that typically at least 1,5 Kg/cm^2 pressure is required to support 1 um filters that is to say 15 mH2O.
The pump you are using seems very small indeed to deliver such a pressure.

Hi Fukinagashi.,
The pump I'm using is fantastic. It's built for use in beverage dispensers and delivers a lot of oomph in a small package. It's high quality.

Does it work through a real 1 micron filter? Yes, watch the video demo at this link:

URC Filter Demo - YouTube

Cheers,
B B
 
Pump and Filter

TX BB.
Problem is that is difficult to find it here in Europe. So I need to opt for an alternative.

OK, you don't need to find a pump that can generate as high a pressure as you mentioned. That would be required if you were trying to pump 10 liters per minute or more. My system runs about 2 liters per minute through the 1 micron filter, which is plenty, given the capacity of the tank (6 liters).
B B
 
Also, Fukinagashi, you might look at espresso machine pumps, since you're in Europe. Ulka makes many of these. The problem is the flow rates are low, and they tend to have low duty cycle ratings ---- they're designed topump one cup of water for coffee vs. 6 liters of cleaning fluid. But, check the Ulka catalog for related pumps that might have the right specs. Most of these pumps are vibratory pumps, which can also be pretty noisy. But it might be worth looking through their catalog to see what you can find.
Cheers,
B B
 
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