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Old 26th November 2012, 02:31 PM   #201
Shaun is offline Shaun  South Africa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbftx View Post
Shaun, Depends on the type and brand. If a supplier doesn't supply specs for an inline system, the filters are probably 20 to 30 micron at best.
Are you thinking about this to create pure water from tap water for your cleaning solution, or for filtering the cleaning solution after use?
I was wondering if this type of filter would do the job, yes.

Thanks for the explanation.
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Old 27th November 2012, 02:17 PM   #202
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Default As I get closer to a machine I can walk away from ...

I got the coupling and collar and I think this might be an easier way to set up the machine and you will not have to leave home to do it.

Got them from: nutsandbolts.com
1 ea. 1/8 Inch Set Screw Shaft Collar Black Oxide Qty (10) $11.96
1 ea. 3/8-1/4 Single Split Shaft Coupling Black Oxide No Keyway Qty (1) $16.73

If someone would like a collar I have nine left. Cost plus postage. No need to buy ten more until I am out.

The coupling, being rather large, allows a good place to place a "ledge" underneath and give support to the motor shaft. I cut a piece of wood about 3/8 inch thick, three inches wide and about 3/4 inch deep (under the coupling) and glued it on with good "super glue". Just makes me feel better about things ...

I decided to use a wooden dowel instead of the drill stock and find one can friction fit the dowel into the coupling. There is no need to tighten the bolts. Just push it in.

I punched out all of the holes in the "motor housing". when I first used it I noticed there was a surprising amount of heat building up in there.

I installed a piece of PVC in the motor housing, the bottom hole, which then supports the assembly instead of it resting on the US machine. The length being long enough to touch the frame, or your table top depending on your set-up.

My "frame" is L-shaped - the machine can be moved around on the bottom piece for alignment. I have retained bbftx's pivot on the vertical part just because it is the easiest and the best way to do it.

My set-up is bulkier than bbftx but I have not had to touch the machine - no holes!

I am sticking with distilled water.

Thanks for the thermometer/meter recommendations. I am ordering one today.

THANKS to Ishmail for his bath temperature observations. This is very valuable.

Now I just need to coat the frame with some polyurethane since I used pine lumber it needs some protection.

When this is done I will take a picture of the ungainly thing.

Still waiting for my pump from SURPLUS SALES. Got my filter from one of the many places selling these things. What is strange is that I would have thought the housings would be a standard size. I cannot screw the top all of the way down with the filter I bought in place. Maybe the filter needs to be wet for this to happen? Since I do not have a pump not sure if this makes any difference. I think the pump is due to arrive today.

My contribution for the day!

Thanks to all but especially to bbftx! (The leader always deserves special praise)
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Old 27th November 2012, 05:30 PM   #203
bbftx is offline bbftx  United States
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Default Filter and such

Quote:
Originally Posted by rickmcinnis View Post
Got my filter from one of the many places selling these things. What is strange is that I would have thought the housings would be a standard size. I cannot screw the top all of the way down with the filter I bought in place. Maybe the filter needs to be wet for this to happen?
Rick, The filters and housings are more or less standard. To give a good seal between the inflow port and outflow port, the housings usually have a ridge that presses into the filter. See the attached photo. That little indentation around the core of the filter is created by the top of the housing when you screw it onto the housing. Since you're indenting the filter, it does present some resistance as you screw on the top.

I'm looking forward to seeing photos of your setup, especially the wooden spindle and your shaft coupling.
I'm going a different route: I'm adding a proper bronze bearing to my setup to support the metal spindle, and to take the bending weight off the motor shaft. This takes up less space than the type of split coupling you're adding. Will post pictures by early next week when completed so you can see what I'm talking about. I'll also use the same type of bearing for my version 2 setup that has a fixed motor housing instead of the rotating arm. I've also fashioned a new spindle design that doesn't require a set screw, based on your stated idea of a "quick disconnect" setup. This requires some fun, but fairly intricate lathe work, however, to create. Will post photos when complete.

Cheers,
B B
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Old 27th November 2012, 07:10 PM   #204
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Default I am sure your setup will be more elegant than mine

Though I wonder if going with a bearing is not complete overkill which makes it just about right for us audio kooks! I am sure I will be sincerely jealous when I see it!.

I went with the coupling for ease and simplicity. It just turned out to work better than I thought it would. The friction fit aspect was not envisioned when I ordered the stuff.

I had thought about doing away with the swinging arm but it is easy to implement and does not require any precision. My whole set-up requires no precision since there are so many places where one can wiggle things around.

I am placing the filter in correctly - the top of the housing will not touch the bottom which seems like it should. My pump did not arrive today as promised by UPS so I have to wait another day to see if there are enough threads used to get a seal on the filter.

Now if only I had working amplifiers ...
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Old 27th November 2012, 08:13 PM   #205
Shaun is offline Shaun  South Africa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickmcinnis View Post
Though I wonder if going with a bearing is not complete overkill which makes it just about right for us audio kooks! I am sure I will be sincerely jealous when I see it!.
Overkill? Never!

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 27th November 2012, 08:38 PM   #206
bbftx is offline bbftx  United States
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Default Bearing

Nice Shaun, what's that motor can and gearbox you're using? You've obviously been a busy bee crafting parts, assembling components and not telling us!

I'm going with a simple flanged bronze bushing as a bearing, sitting in a pillow block housing. At about $7 for the two components, it's cheaper than your split coupling, Rick!

What brand filter housing and what brand and type of filter do you have, Rick?
Best,
B B
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File Type: jpg Bronze Bush.jpg (17.6 KB, 573 views)
File Type: jpg Bearing Block.jpg (20.4 KB, 537 views)
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Old 27th November 2012, 09:36 PM   #207
Shaun is offline Shaun  South Africa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbftx View Post
Nice Shaun, what's that motor can and gearbox you're using? You've obviously been a busy bee crafting parts, assembling components and not telling us!
It is a 12V 0.6RPM motor/gearbox combo like this: Free shipping.DC 12V/0.6rpm/25kg.cm micro gear motor-in DC Motor from Industry & Business on Aliexpress.com.

The brass piece serves as both shaft coupler and adaptor for the 12mm ID bearing. This I turned on my lathe. I could only find a very small plastic pillow block locally. I liked the elegance of the swing arm loader arrangement, so I'll be mounting the motor and bearing on opposite sides of some 50mm square extrusion (most of the brass part will be inside).

The project is going a bit slow, and I did not want to share anything before I was sure it was working, but rickmcinnis' post prompted me to share.
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Old 5th December 2012, 02:23 AM   #208
bbftx is offline bbftx  United States
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Default Bearing for the Spindle

Here are some photos of the bearing I added to support the LP spindle on my ultrasonic record cleaner. This really should have been part of the design in the first place so that the motor shaft would not be subjected to too much bending weight. Thanks to Rick for prompting me to address this problem! Shaun is incorporating a different bearing setup in his project too.

As the photos show, this bearing setup will support the spindle whether the rotating arm of the URC is in the up or down position. You won't need a support on the far end of the LP spindle if you use this bearing setup.

LP spindles are an odd size --- 9/32" or 0.281" in diameter. This is not a standard shaft size so there are very few fittings and parts to be found. I finally found a bronze flange bearing for a 9/32" shaft at Stock Drive Products / Sterling Instrument www.sdp-si.com

The bearing pillow block housing (part # A 7Z28-P038) is sintered aluminum. There are two sintered bronze flange bearings (part # A 7B 4-F007) that are press fit into the bearing housing. I actually reamed out the bronze bearings a few thousandths of an inch to give a looser fit and make it easier to use a detachable spindle (more on the quick connect spindle in another message). If you don't have the means to bore out the bearing, you could probably get away with using an oversized bearing since this is a low rpm, low power application. Part # A 7B 4-P022 is 0.313 inside diameter (5/16", or 1/32" oversize), but will fit in the same housing. It's longer, so you would only need one oversized bronze bearing, not 2.

Cheers,
B B
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Bearing-DSC_8199.jpg (116.6 KB, 499 views)
File Type: jpg Bearing-and-QC-Spindle-DSC_8203.jpg (94.8 KB, 495 views)
File Type: jpg Bearing-Arm-Up-DSC_8207.jpg (95.2 KB, 180 views)
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Old 5th December 2012, 03:45 AM   #209
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I want that!
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Old 6th December 2012, 05:38 AM   #210
CT0wens is offline CT0wens  United States
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Gents,

I ran into this video on YouTube of a Japanese DIY project that incorporates brushes at/below the waterline.

http://youtu.be/TKRq9LvfBUQ


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