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Old 16th November 2012, 01:09 AM   #151
LFM is offline LFM  Canada
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Default ultrasonic cleaner

rickmcinnis, I think you could simplify things by using a hardwood dowel instead of a steel shaft for your cleaner. You would have very little trouble drilling a hole in the center with a handheld drill and then just use a sliver of wood and some epoxy to create the D shape of the motor drive and to glue it to the shaft. It takes very little torque to spin the records and I'm sure this would work just fine. Just make sure to place a cardboard or masking tape gasket between the dowel and motor bushing so you don't seize the motor with epoxy. I would also rough up the motor shaft with a small file or dremel for a really good bond.
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Old 16th November 2012, 02:19 PM   #152
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Default Thanks for all the good advice

I had considered the wooden dowel but was concerned that the diameter needed would not be available so I went ahead got the drill stock.

I have ordered a collar for the motor shaft which takes it from 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch which will then fit into a coupling that is 1/4 inch on one end and 3/8 inch on the other. I will use copper foil wrapped around the shaft to get the needed diameter. If this does not work I will find a machinist!

My idea for the support for the LP holder is to build a frame that the machine can be placed in. Since I bought the machine new I am not ready to drill holes in it. The frame will completely support the machine and allow more space underneath for better cooling of the transducers. Other than that I will retain bbftx's approach with the swinging arm on the narrow end. This will be attached to the frame using the same brackets as bbftx recommended.

Since I have to maintain my yard sprinklers I have PVC glue on hand - I will use that instead of threaded fittings. I got a plastic box for the motor instead of the metal one specified so I can glue the tubing to this, also. The motor will need to be mounted to the cover with the plastic version since the "box" side has lots of surface irregularities which precluded mounting the motor unless one was willing to do some grinding; on second thought lots of grinding.

Yes, a thermometer is needed with this machine. Last night I cycled it on and off. I never let it get too hot since I have not installed a thermometer yet.

I was thinking of using an aquarium thermometer though I am not sure if the range would be sufficient. Glad to know there is such a thing as a coffee thermometer! I have two choices - whichever one I find first.

One looks back at their mistakes and realizes: you had plenty of warning that something was suspect. I keep my house colder than most folks (more money for LPs) so I ignored the water vapor rising from the tank! Of course, if my house was warm there would not have been so much vapor. BUT it should have been obvious that there was lots more vapor than a 120 degrees bath would generate! I have always reassured myself that education is always expensive.

As soon as this part is completed the filtering will come next.
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Old 16th November 2012, 03:05 PM   #153
oshifis is offline oshifis  Hungary
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I don't get what is the physical reason of heating the bath. I can imagine only one reason: the surface tension of water is lower at higher temperature (see my post a few posts above). But the surfactant has the same effect...
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Old 16th November 2012, 03:07 PM   #154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oshifis View Post
I don't get what is the physical reason of heating the bath. I can imagine only one reason: the surface tension of water is lower at higher temperature (see my post a few posts above). But the surfactant has the same effect...
To give the records a nice warm bath lol?

I know that when I do the dishes that oils, grease and fats on the dishes will be much more easier to get off when they are cleaned under warm/hot water.

People will seep bodily oils and fluids from their fingers as a part of their normal skin protecting/healing/renegeration process I can only imagine that warming up the water will clean this from the records.

Though wether or not this is good for the records is another topic entirely, do built up bodily oil/fluids that are deposited upon the surface of records cause the premature degredation of vinyl or protect it from further unnecessary wear and tear from a needle by very slightly lubing it?
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Last edited by freax; 16th November 2012 at 03:12 PM.
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Old 16th November 2012, 04:25 PM   #155
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Default Most important benefit of cleaning records

We all start off thinking that it sure will be nice to get rid of that noise yet when you listen to a CLEAN record what strikes you is not the reduction in pops and clicks but the sound becomes much better in all of the tortured jargon ways. The ticks and pops will remain, though diminished, but what is revealed is astounding.

I have used the VPI approach and later the MERRILL high pressure spigot method and each brought about better sound.

But this US thing is another thing entirely. Even records cleaned before by either of the previous schemes sound transformed.

As has long been said improvements got from cleaning records, and other such tweaks, can be got no other way. No matter how much money you spend on other components you can never get what you will experience with a REALLY clean record.

I was first worried that the money spent on this machine was going to end up being a bit of a disappointment. Sure it would do a better job ... At this point after three nights of hearing BY FAR the best sound quality ever heard in my house I consider this to be one of the best uses of money I have made.

The improvement is way beyond what I have experienced when upgrading amplifiers. No comparison. More akin to speaker exchanges when going from a bookshelf to something of substance.

There is a massive amount of information on our LPs. I am realizing this with great clarity now. You simply will not believe the increase in spatial information for one. I will not go on with that kind of thing but I hope you get the idea.

I still am just moving the LPs by hand a quarter turn every three minutes. Whether the constant movement from the motor is better, and how much better, will have to wait until next week.

AGAIN, my thanks to bbftx for making the project compelling by his enthusiasm and his detailed description of his approach. His posts are a great gift ready for the taking.
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Old 17th November 2012, 09:18 AM   #156
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Hi New member here
Joined after a google search for USCs as I have just embarked on my own project to build one. Like your design and info on liquid.
What temperature do you run the bath at ?
Will post my efforts when finished
JR ( UK )
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Old 17th November 2012, 01:06 PM   #157
bbftx is offline bbftx  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hairyjohn View Post
What temperature do you run the bath at ?
JR ( UK )
Hi JR, (although I like the HairyJohn nickname better!)
I run my bath temp between 110-120F (43-49C). The reasoning being that is the upper range for hand comfort and is also not too hot to damage LPs.

Good luck, looking forward to seeing your efforts soon,

B B
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Old 17th November 2012, 01:24 PM   #158
bbftx is offline bbftx  United States
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Default Bath Temperature

I had been operating under the simple assumption that the higher the ultrasonic bath temperature, the better the cleaning action.
From reading a couple of different articles on the topic, it appears there are different mechanisms at work that make the question a little more complicated. And, as usual, there are different opinions from different manufacturers.

Here are two interesting views:
Zenith Ultrasonics Temperature Recommendations

Tovatech Temperature Recommendations

The Tovatech write up is interesting because it mentions blood and human protein impurities and limiting temps to 107F to prevent hardening of these impurities on the stainless steel surfaces. I believe skin oils don't fall into this category however, and a slightly higher temp is better for oil removal.

I trust the Zenith write-up, as they seem to have lots of history and credibility in matters of ultrasonic cleaning. Note that Zenith is US based, so I believe the %age temps they refer to are percentage of Farenheit boiling point (212F for plain water).

B B

Last edited by bbftx; 17th November 2012 at 01:27 PM.
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Old 17th November 2012, 04:52 PM   #159
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Default heating temps

bbftx

Thanks for the detailed info

I recently built a US Cleaner which I use in my garage.

I have been cleaning at ambient temp (in warmer weather) and was interested in using higher temp based on your recommendation, but hadn't experimented yet.

After reading this info - I will clean some LPs I previously cleaned that still sound noisy, and check for improvement with bath temp between (43-49C) = 110-120F.

With colder garage temps, I obviously need to heat water somewhat - now I have a useful guideline.

Thanks

Tim
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Old 17th November 2012, 08:02 PM   #160
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Thanks B B That was more or less what I was thinking, My bath has been ordered. My plan is to make a 'lid" that will support a spindle and power is with a small model car motor running on the edge of the record,
I would like the unit to be separate so that the bath can be used for motorcycle stuff as well,
HJ ( That better )

Last edited by Hairyjohn; 17th November 2012 at 08:18 PM.
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