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#111 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Vancouver
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Quote:
I am currently using a distilled water / IPA / Triton X-100 mixture that seems to be doing the job. I am curious about experimenting with rinsing as I am still having difficulty wrapping my head around the air drying. I am looking forward to hearing about your experiences with Alconox. The Triton X I use was given to me from a friend of mine who works in a lab. The Triton is difficult and expensive to source up here so I am on the hunt to find a better solution. Is the Alconox easy to source and how much does it cost? |
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#112 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
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Vinyladdict,
I ordered the Alconox from BP Medical Supplies via Amazon; sometimes Techni-Tools comes up as the preferred vendor. The best price I found was about $31 shipped within the US for a 4-lb carton of powder that should last a long time. The user reviews are very positive. There is also a liquid form, Liquinox, that contains the same cleaner. It took a full week before it shipped, but it's on its way now. Alconox is intended for commercial/industrial/lab use. It contains phosphates which are banned in domestic detergents in the US. Policies are a bit greener where you are, so I don't know if that's an issue for you or your government. If it is, there are some phosphate-free offerings from Alconox you can research on the company's website. We would use very small amounts in our ultrasonic cleaning application, so my conscience is pretty clear. Check out the Alconox Canada website. Seems like it's OK where you are. Triton X-100 is also available on US Amazon, but only ships within the US. I found this quote in the wikipedia article on Triton X-100: Apart from laboratory use, Triton X-100 can be found in several types of cleaning compounds,[3] ranging from heavy-duty industrial products to gentle detergents. It is also a popular ingredient in homemade vinyl record cleaning fluids together with distilled water and isopropyl alcohol. This is interesting information for cost-efficient traditional vacuum cleaning. It suggests it's also a good choice for our use, but that rinsing is important (based on the usual instructions for this type of cleaner from AIVS, etc.). Perhaps it leaves a film that attracts dirt over time if left to dry without rinsing, but does not initially detract from the sound. The high viscosity of X-100 makes me think a rinse is a good idea. |
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#113 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Vancouver
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Quote:
How is your build coming? My motor arrives tomorrow (so says UPS), so I will be cleaning all my garage sale finds in earnest later this week. BB - How is the filter system prototype coming along? |
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#114 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Vancouver
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Quote:
Thanks |
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#115 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Austin, TX
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Quote:
BB |
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#116 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Vancouver
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Hey BB! As usual you exceed expectations. I really appreciate the effort and time your put in to help us out!
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#117 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Vancouver
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Hey BB,
Sorry for being a PITA but I have a few questions as I get my motor setup. The rotating arm mechanism seems to be a bit loose and "flops" around a bit more than I expected so I am wondering if I have made some errors. - How tight are the pipe straps on the 1/2" PVC pipe? Does the pipe move freely or is there some resistance? - I was also wondering how warm the motor gets in your build? In my limited testing I have noticed that the motor case cover gets warm after a few minutes. Not hot, just warm. Last edited by Vinyladdict; 11th October 2012 at 07:36 PM. |
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#118 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Austin, TX
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Quote:
To get the adjustability to the turning resistance I needed, I added the spacer pointed out in the photo. It's just a flat piece of metal held in place by the same nut and bolt that holds the pipe clamp to the angle bracket. It keeps as much of the pipe as possible in contact with the pipe clamp and allows one to tighten the nut to provide exactly the resistance desired for arm movement. An alternative would be to use the threaded elbow connecting the 1/2" pipe to the arm as the moving element, instead of allowing the 1/2" pipe to turn in the pipe clamps. The pipe and elbow connections in my setup are tight and fairly rigid. But before tightening everything down, you have to make sure your overall geometry works out right, such that the LPs end up in the right place in the URC tank. Again, this might vary a bit based on the particular dimensions of the cleaner you're using, or the dimensions of the elbows and pipe you're using. My motor mounting box gets slightly warm; definitely not hot. BB |
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#119 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Austin, TX
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Addict,
Originally you also asked about how tight the elbow going into the motor box was. Maybe you already solved this problem, but if I remember correctly, this elbow had more threaded length than needed to fully engage the threads in the motor box. I cut off the extra length of the elbow threads so that the end of the elbow wouldn't hit the motor itself when fully tightened. The motor is thick enough such that it takes up almost all of the available depth of the motor box. You also need to make sure you include the gasket (and possibly an extra gasket) between the motor box cover and the motor box to get just a little more space for the motor. |
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#120 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Vancouver
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Quote:
Lots of tweaking to do now..... she sure ain't purty, but it is working! Thanks again for the assist mate. |
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