Dimensions for Rega p2(Nad 533)?? Making a new plinth

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Quote:
Originally Posted by ncdrawl


"Going to be building a new plinth, was wondering if someone had done this, and what all the measurements were?"


222mm record spindle/centre to arm pivot point for the Rega arm. Nothing else matters in terms of precision, just aesthetic considerations after that.

Rega RB250 Owners Manual, Service Manual, Schematics, Free Download | Vinyl Engine

terminado.jpg



are there just three holes ??Wood choice? the guy above used 3 layers of mdf..but how did he get it so seamless looking?? Also trying to figure out the proper diameter for each opening, where to put the rocker switch, etc. please forgive my ignorance. I mean well!
 
The picture shows a nice plinth. Too bad it's MDF.

Nice looking plinth, but MDF sucks the life out of anything it touches. It is far from neutral sounding. I'm sure compressed cow manure (once any off-gassing was complete) would sound better. Any wood plinth would sound better I'm sure. Why is it that so many turntable plinth builders make theirs out of bb ply, or solid wood? Must be something to it.
 
Like it was mentioned earlier, the only critical measurement is the spindle to arm-pivot distance, which is 222mm. You can overbore the arm hole slightly to get +/- 1-2mm adjustment which should let you dial it in later.

Do you have the original plinth?

The only other measurement that is somewhat important is the spindle to motor distance, which is right at 2-3/4" (70mm) - at least it is on my older Planar2.

Remember that you only have about 1" of thread depth on the spindle, so you will have to counter bore a recess for a thicker plinth. You will also have to do the same for the motor mount and the arm.

The "seamless" look from the picture you show is probably the result of applying a veneer to the MDF.

-bill
 
terminado.jpg



are there just three holes ??Wood choice? the guy above used 3 layers of mdf..but how did he get it so seamless looking?? Also trying to figure out the proper diameter for each opening, where to put the rocker switch, etc. please forgive my ignorance. I mean well!

The Rega deck has an underside cut out or recess to house the motor mechanism and the trimming electronics. The motor is now fixed with a sticky pad to the underside, where the plinth is only a few mm's thick. The old motor used a terrible system with a suspended rubber 'o' ring holding the motor away from the board. This system was used because the older motors conventionally attached would introduce motor noise into the non suspended plinth.
Today Rega use simple sticky foam pads to hold the motor firmly in place. Way better tighter bass, better pitch stability, no extra noise.

To Replace Motor (Planar old style)

I fitted the better motor to an older Rega Planar 3 with RB300 but then I was given a Garrard 401 so I built a plinth. All that is left in active service of the Rega now is the donor arm.

Rega build very thin plinths, even their most expensive decks. Low mass, low energy storage.
 
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Love that Plinth!

You can just add to the existing plinth, I laminated 3" of baltic birch to the bottom of mine.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

Hello FACE.

I love what you did to your RP3. I'd like to do the same with mine.

If you can't, no stress. Thanks for the idea.

If you do have a few moments, I'd appreciate step by step advice if you can find the time:

How do I position the motor? I confused about this, as I assume you didn't send the spindle all the way through the base.

What holes/cuts do I need to make and where? (I'll probably get an expert to do that part).

Any tips would be fantastic. Thanks a lot and all the best,

TC
 
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