how to disassemble an airpax motor ?

Giordano · 16th January 2012, 10:21 PM

Hello,
In some forums it is mentioned that it is not easy to disassemble the airpax motor without damage. How should I ? I want to re-wind it for 12V.
Thanks,
JG

sreten · 16th January 2012, 10:49 PM

Hi,

Motors simply have optimum current and voltage ratings for peak torque.

They can work at a wide range of voltage / current ratings with less torque.

Your not being very clear at all, an Airpax is synchronous AFAIK.

rgds, sreten.

Giordano · 16th January 2012, 11:13 PM

Hello,
Thanks for the reply.
I want to disassemble it, remove the 2 coil, count down the winding, wind back for 12V AC. Than assemble it back.

Reason : I have tesla motors with same hardware for 220V and 24V. I made a dual sin generator where I can finetune phase difference and voltage. I found that if I tune the voltages it reduce vibration, if I tune the phase diff, it reduce the vibration further. The function of phase difference to vibration is different on the 220V and the 24V motor. I can tune the 220V one, +-3 degrees does not make much difference. The response is quite flat. In the other hand, on the 24V motor the response is very sharp, +-1 degrees makes more difference and I can tune to much less vibration. Actually, I can tune the 24V motor that far, that I can not feel vibration at all. .... so, I want to try with the airpax.

Regards,
JG

Nanook · 17th January 2012, 08:28 PM

Guaranteed to help disassemble, but not guaranteed to allow reassembly.

Giordano · 4th February 2012, 09:11 PM

Hello,
The motor disassembly is very simple. The 4 holes has to be milled a bit, that it comes easier. Fortunately I marked the 2 side housing to each other, as well as the mide section to the bottom housing.
I have removed the 110V 7000 turn windings and made it for 6V.
When I first assembled, it was worst, it took about 2 hours to find the right angles. It looks strange, but my tesla motors has locking nuts and pins to lock in position, at the airpax if I make it wrong by a few degrees, the performance is bad.
So that it was still not better, and I found that the D class TA2024 amp what I got recently, do not like the motor. It represents about 40ohm load, but still, they seem to hate each other. I have hooked back the normal amp, finetuned the phase angle and the amplitudes ... and ... it bacame dead vibration less. I can only feel it now, if I grab it very strongly into my hand.
JG

Giordano · 4th February 2012, 09:25 PM

I found another important thing.
On trials, to provide mechanical load and measure speed I have used a compact disc glued on an alu pulley. It is attached very rigidly to the axle.
The motor doesn't even starts, just vibrates. When I start it, I can feel it oscillates in the locked position, with a few Hz. If I would average, the speed would be perfect, but I can feel it on the motor in my hand. It is locked in the rotating magnetic field, but within the locked position it oscillates for a second or two, when I hit the disc gently with my finger.
The same motor with same drive starts the platter easy. With the plastic pulley on, at startup, the (new) belt slips on it, the motor speeds up the platter easy. If I attach a cd rigidly to the axle, it does not start at all.
I have a conclusion: for sure I will always use pulley as light as possible. Systemdek use plexi with a good reason I believe.
Regards,
JG

16th January 2012, 10:21 PM	#1
Giordano diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Hungary	how to disassemble an airpax motor ? Hello, In some forums it is mentioned that it is not easy to disassemble the airpax motor without damage. How should I ? I want to re-wind it for 12V. Thanks, JG

16th January 2012, 10:49 PM	#2
sreten diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Brighton UK	Hi, Motors simply have optimum current and voltage ratings for peak torque. They can work at a wide range of voltage / current ratings with less torque. Your not being very clear at all, an Airpax is synchronous AFAIK. rgds, sreten. __________________ There is nothing so practical as a really good theory - Ludwig Boltzmann When your only tool is a hammer, every problem looks like a nail - Abraham Maslow

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16th January 2012, 11:13 PM	#3
Giordano diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Hungary	Hello, Thanks for the reply. I want to disassemble it, remove the 2 coil, count down the winding, wind back for 12V AC. Than assemble it back. Reason : I have tesla motors with same hardware for 220V and 24V. I made a dual sin generator where I can finetune phase difference and voltage. I found that if I tune the voltages it reduce vibration, if I tune the phase diff, it reduce the vibration further. The function of phase difference to vibration is different on the 220V and the 24V motor. I can tune the 220V one, +-3 degrees does not make much difference. The response is quite flat. In the other hand, on the 24V motor the response is very sharp, +-1 degrees makes more difference and I can tune to much less vibration. Actually, I can tune the 24V motor that far, that I can not feel vibration at all. .... so, I want to try with the airpax. Regards, JG

4th February 2012, 09:11 PM	#5
Giordano diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Hungary	Hello, The motor disassembly is very simple. The 4 holes has to be milled a bit, that it comes easier. Fortunately I marked the 2 side housing to each other, as well as the mide section to the bottom housing. I have removed the 110V 7000 turn windings and made it for 6V. When I first assembled, it was worst, it took about 2 hours to find the right angles. It looks strange, but my tesla motors has locking nuts and pins to lock in position, at the airpax if I make it wrong by a few degrees, the performance is bad. So that it was still not better, and I found that the D class TA2024 amp what I got recently, do not like the motor. It represents about 40ohm load, but still, they seem to hate each other. I have hooked back the normal amp, finetuned the phase angle and the amplitudes ... and ... it bacame dead vibration less. I can only feel it now, if I grab it very strongly into my hand. JG

4th February 2012, 09:25 PM	#6
Giordano diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Hungary	I found another important thing. On trials, to provide mechanical load and measure speed I have used a compact disc glued on an alu pulley. It is attached very rigidly to the axle. The motor doesn't even starts, just vibrates. When I start it, I can feel it oscillates in the locked position, with a few Hz. If I would average, the speed would be perfect, but I can feel it on the motor in my hand. It is locked in the rotating magnetic field, but within the locked position it oscillates for a second or two, when I hit the disc gently with my finger. The same motor with same drive starts the platter easy. With the plastic pulley on, at startup, the (new) belt slips on it, the motor speeds up the platter easy. If I attach a cd rigidly to the axle, it does not start at all. I have a conclusion: for sure I will always use pulley as light as possible. Systemdek use plexi with a good reason I believe. Regards, JG

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