Rega P3 repair

Giordano · 9th January 2012, 07:13 PM

Hello,
I have just purchased a rega P3 deck on ebay (and also an RB250 separately). Unfortunately, it was not the purchase of the month. I knew the cover is missing, I also knew the motor drive circuit is faulty (fixed easy with a 10k resistor replacement), but the legs of the deck is missing also (that was mentioned, I did not recognize), and the motor was not mounted in the deck. An aluminium plate came also, with two plastic screw part in it.
I did some research, but it is still not 100% clear for me how to mount the motor. As far as I understand, the motor is fixed on the alu plate by a rubber ring (what size and material ?) and than the alu plate is screwed up at the deck. I have 3 questions about that:
- the part of the rubber belt stuck between the alu plate and the deck when I scerw it up. Is a spacer used under the screw to avoid it ?
- the rubber pulls the motor to the alu plate, but it is not 100% fixed, it moves. But, it is a metal to metal connection. This concernes me. Is it this way ?
- I found part of plastic screw in the alu plate. It was drilled out, just a little piece left in the alu plate. Is it a nylon screw ? M3 seems too small, M4 does not fit, is it a metric screw at all ?

Another problem is the legs :-( Can you please make a picture and a diameter / lenght measurement of the original. What material it is ? Rubber ? Hard or softer plastic ? I want to find similar legs, and also make balsa legs.

Fortunately the bearing and the motor seems to be right. At least :-)

A 20mm acril platter is getting made now for it (I know I will need VTA spacer).

Thanks a lot,
Gabor Jordan

rob g · 9th January 2012, 08:01 PM

Hi Gabor,
the metal plate you describe is used with the O ring suspended system for the old support arrangement of the old version of the Planar 3, chuck it away. You may also find the motor spindle has come loose. This old rubber ring arrangement is prone to poor speed stability most notable on sustained violin, Piano and some vocals.

The motor system was significantly improved in 2000 and has since been improved again last year. The new (circa 2000) mounting system was a sticky foam pad rigidly holding the ac motor to the underside of the phenolic resin skin.

You should get hold of the newer 2011 motor upgrade with a new belt. This can be further upgraded with outboard PSU. However this upgrade alone will get you 9/10 improvement over the old rubber band suspended system.

Giordano · 9th January 2012, 09:25 PM

Thanks,
I was searching for upgrade, but first I want to restore to somewhat close to the original. I saw the way how the upgrade motor is attached. Long time ago I worked with balsa unde the turntable, in the turntable under the subchassis and I liked it very much. After I restore the original, I will try to use balsa blocks to fix the motor. Two column to screw up to the deck, and a flat bar under the motor to tie down the motor. I have experienced before that balsa isolates quite well, but still quite rigid. Than I will also try to screw the motor down to a heavy plate separate from the deck but sitting on the same self. So, I have lots of plans :-), but need a starting point.
Anyway, can you confirm how the motor is mounted in the original planar 3 ? Is the way I described correct ?
Also, the legs would be important.

Thanks,
JG

rob g · 9th January 2012, 10:02 PM

look at this image.
Redirect Notice

rob g · 9th January 2012, 10:22 PM

The weight of the motor pulls the motor off the metal plate. it is suspended.

6L6 · 9th January 2012, 10:32 PM

Look at this thread - Rega Planar 3/2 - Significant modifications

It has some of the most intelligent mods to an old-style Planar 3 I have ever seen. The motor mounting is fantastic.

The rubber-band mounting that is the 'normal' way on your turntable is not very good. There is a reason why Rega changed it.

Giordano · 10th January 2012, 11:30 AM

The picture supports how I imagined how it works. Temporary, I want to restore that, to have starting point, but I see that a separate motor support will be the long term solution.

Can you guys measure the feet also for me please ?

Thanks,

JG

Giordano · 10th January 2012, 11:34 AM

one more thing: I found in some material the original glass platter is 10mm, in other material that it is 13mm. What is it?
Thanks,
JG

rob g · 10th January 2012, 07:44 PM

I cannot measure this.
My Rega turbo charging (okay fettling/fiddling) days are now behind me as the upgraded planar 3 turntable is in the loft as a back up option.
The Rega arm now sits in my custom skeletal Plinth of the Garrard 401.

rob g · 10th January 2012, 07:53 PM

I am almost certain the difference in glass thickness is the difference between the Rega Planar 3 versus planar 2.

The higher mass should aid speed stability, Planar 3 uses thicker glass.

9th January 2012, 07:13 PM	#1
Giordano diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Hungary	Rega P3 repair Hello, I have just purchased a rega P3 deck on ebay (and also an RB250 separately). Unfortunately, it was not the purchase of the month. I knew the cover is missing, I also knew the motor drive circuit is faulty (fixed easy with a 10k resistor replacement), but the legs of the deck is missing also (that was mentioned, I did not recognize), and the motor was not mounted in the deck. An aluminium plate came also, with two plastic screw part in it. I did some research, but it is still not 100% clear for me how to mount the motor. As far as I understand, the motor is fixed on the alu plate by a rubber ring (what size and material ?) and than the alu plate is screwed up at the deck. I have 3 questions about that: - the part of the rubber belt stuck between the alu plate and the deck when I scerw it up. Is a spacer used under the screw to avoid it ? - the rubber pulls the motor to the alu plate, but it is not 100% fixed, it moves. But, it is a metal to metal connection. This concernes me. Is it this way ? - I found part of plastic screw in the alu plate. It was drilled out, just a little piece left in the alu plate. Is it a nylon screw ? M3 seems too small, M4 does not fit, is it a metric screw at all ? Another problem is the legs :-( Can you please make a picture and a diameter / lenght measurement of the original. What material it is ? Rubber ? Hard or softer plastic ? I want to find similar legs, and also make balsa legs. Fortunately the bearing and the motor seems to be right. At least :-) A 20mm acril platter is getting made now for it (I know I will need VTA spacer). Thanks a lot, Gabor Jordan

9th January 2012, 10:32 PM	#6
6L6 diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Denver, Colorado	Look at this thread - Rega Planar 3/2 - Significant modifications It has some of the most intelligent mods to an old-style Planar 3 I have ever seen. The motor mounting is fantastic. The rubber-band mounting that is the 'normal' way on your turntable is not very good. There is a reason why Rega changed it. __________________ Pass Labs Pearl Phono -- Pass B1 Preamp -- Pass F5 amplifier -- Pass Labs Pearl 2

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: Advanced Search

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Rega P3 upgrades	neil_kaye	Analogue Source	7	27th September 2007 09:17 PM
rewire Rega P3	dafdesign	Analogue Source	3	19th July 2007 01:55 PM
Differences in Rega P3 vs Planar 3	augerpro	Analogue Source	29	22nd June 2007 10:19 PM
rega P3 motor- DIY	woodturner-fran	Analogue Source	5	28th June 2006 10:02 AM
DC motor for Rega P3, need help please.	Vinyl-Addict	Analogue Source	4	20th February 2004 12:09 AM

New To Site?	Need Help?
Register to Participate Search Privacy Statement Contact Us	Frequently Asked Questions Did you forget your password? Mark Forums Read


	Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you. Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving

9th January 2012, 08:01 PM	#2
rob g diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2011	Hi Gabor, the metal plate you describe is used with the O ring suspended system for the old support arrangement of the old version of the Planar 3, chuck it away. You may also find the motor spindle has come loose. This old rubber ring arrangement is prone to poor speed stability most notable on sustained violin, Piano and some vocals. The motor system was significantly improved in 2000 and has since been improved again last year. The new (circa 2000) mounting system was a sticky foam pad rigidly holding the ac motor to the underside of the phenolic resin skin. You should get hold of the newer 2011 motor upgrade with a new belt. This can be further upgraded with outboard PSU. However this upgrade alone will get you 9/10 improvement over the old rubber band suspended system.

9th January 2012, 09:25 PM	#3
Giordano diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Hungary	Thanks, I was searching for upgrade, but first I want to restore to somewhat close to the original. I saw the way how the upgrade motor is attached. Long time ago I worked with balsa unde the turntable, in the turntable under the subchassis and I liked it very much. After I restore the original, I will try to use balsa blocks to fix the motor. Two column to screw up to the deck, and a flat bar under the motor to tie down the motor. I have experienced before that balsa isolates quite well, but still quite rigid. Than I will also try to screw the motor down to a heavy plate separate from the deck but sitting on the same self. So, I have lots of plans :-), but need a starting point. Anyway, can you confirm how the motor is mounted in the original planar 3 ? Is the way I described correct ? Also, the legs would be important. Thanks, JG

9th January 2012, 10:02 PM	#4
rob g diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2011	look at this image. Redirect Notice

9th January 2012, 10:22 PM	#5
rob g diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2011	The weight of the motor pulls the motor off the metal plate. it is suspended.

10th January 2012, 11:30 AM	#7
Giordano diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Hungary	The picture supports how I imagined how it works. Temporary, I want to restore that, to have starting point, but I see that a separate motor support will be the long term solution. Can you guys measure the feet also for me please ? Thanks, JG

10th January 2012, 11:34 AM	#8
Giordano diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Hungary	one more thing: I found in some material the original glass platter is 10mm, in other material that it is 13mm. What is it? Thanks, JG

10th January 2012, 07:44 PM	#9
rob g diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2011	I cannot measure this. My Rega turbo charging (okay fettling/fiddling) days are now behind me as the upgraded planar 3 turntable is in the loft as a back up option. The Rega arm now sits in my custom skeletal Plinth of the Garrard 401.

10th January 2012, 07:53 PM	#10
rob g diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2011	I am almost certain the difference in glass thickness is the difference between the Rega Planar 3 versus planar 2. The higher mass should aid speed stability, Planar 3 uses thicker glass.

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)