The arm is in no way associated with any of the electronics in this table, and when you slide the power switch to the right the motor should start immediately and run at the speed selected. It should come up to speed within one revolution or so if everything is working correctly. I would expect at a minimum that this unit needs to have all of the electrolytics replaced as well as switch contacts cleaned. There may be other problems.. To do the repairs on this table properly you will need a good soldering iron, DVM and an oscilloscope.
I'll help where I can..
The end result is definitely worth the effort.. Just start with small things like cleaning the switch contacts, and measuring voltages.. I would definitely replace the electrolytics in the supply before proceeding very far, there are others that would also be good candidates for replacement. The manual is fairly good. Vishay and a couple of other companies still make good axial leaded capacitors which if memory serves is what you will require. Hopefully the ICs are all still OK.. I had a MKI for many years before I got my first TD-124 in late 2010..Thanks Well firstly im going to try and work out how to take the front plate off as most of the screws seem to be blocked by other things, i havent taken the actual floating section out yet as i wasnt sure how to.
Im hoping if i clean the switches all will be better. I have been told by the original owner that something may be wrong with a component that seats into it. Vague i know, i will try and clarify this.
Well firstly im going to try and work out how to take the front plate off as most of the screws seem to be blocked by other things, i havent taken the actual floating section out yet as i wasnt sure how to. Im hoping if i clean the switches all will be better. I have been told by the original owner that something may be wrong with a component that seats into it. Vague i know, i will try and clarify this.
Nope, do NOT remove the front plate.
Take the bottom off of the plinth and remove the mounting screws from the bottom that retain the TT chassis to the plinth.. IIRC there are 4 of them.. Everything is reachable from the bottom side, and if you take the top plate apart there is the extreme likelihood that you will never get it back together.
Take the bottom off of the plinth and remove the mounting screws from the bottom that retain the TT chassis to the plinth.. IIRC there are 4 of them.. Everything is reachable from the bottom side, and if you take the top plate apart there is the extreme likelihood that you will never get it back together.
Hi langers,
Congrats on the TD125MK2. I just refurbished one today and am listening to it right now! It is a wonderful turntable, a classic, one of the best of all times...
HOWEVER, and i don't want to be a bad guy, for the do-it-yourself turntable enthusiast, this is one of the most difficult turntables to repair/get back in good shape. I would advise you to either (a) sell it to another DIY enthusiast or (b) arm yourself with time and patience because you will need it.
Now, i'm assuming you choose alternative (b)
Let me do a quick checklists of what you have to do. First, does the motor turn? does the turntable spin and the stroboscope lights up showing the speed is reasonably stable ? I'll assume "YES".
So this is standard manteinance for the TD125MK2:
1. Remove bottom cover.
2. Unscrew the control circuit board (2 screws) and replace the two big 1000uF capacitors. Be sure to put the new ones in the correct polarity. 1000, 2000, 3300uF capacitors will work OK, the bigger the better. They should be 25V or 50V rating.
3. Be sure that the top plate (the one that "floats") is level. You can use a bubble level to check. If it isn't level, on the underside of the turntable there are three white "knobs" that you can turn to raise/lower the suspended part of the turntable.
4. Now i assume that if you turn on the turntable, it spins at 33RPM correctly, i.e. the stroboscope marks stand reasonably still. If they wobble too much or don't reach correct speed (despite the turntable belt is correctly located on the motor spindle), then do the voltage/speed adjustment detailed in the service manual.
5. Once the turntable is level you must make sure the motor spindle is level too. For this, there is a screw that controls the azimuth of the motor. It is visible if you take out the outer platter. It has some enamel applied at the factory (so it doesn't move). Remove the outer platter and turn the turntable on. The inner platter will spin. Now stop the inner platter with your hand and check what happens to the belt in the motor spindle. If it goes UP, then you need to turn that screw counter-clockwise. If it goes DOWN then you need to turn the screw clockwise.
Now put the outer platter on and do the same test (stop the outer platter with your hand). Then verify that the belt does not go out of the correct motor pulley section. Correct the azimuth screw as necessary.
6. You may want to clean the switch contacts in the control circuit board. As mentioned before, DO NOT REMOVE THE FRONT PLATE. There is no need to do it and it's a very difficult procedure.
7. The main bearing. You want it to spin freely without making any noise. Try draining the lubricant and cleaning it with solvent. Clean the inner platter spindle (in other words the bearing spindle) using metal polish paste. It should shine as new.
Pour light machine oil (i.e. 3-in-1 oil) on the bearing reservoir. Pour a lot of oil. When pushing the spindle in, if you push in quickly, the excess oil will force the brass bearing bushings to pop out. Then you have a great opportunity to clean them with some solvent.
To correctly reassemble the bearing, push the spindle gently, softly, until it slowly enters the bearings without popping out the bronze bushings.
It is VERY IMPORTANT to have the inner platter spin freely and with no kind of noise at all (you need to be in a silent room to check this). Unless you don't want to bring out the audiophile sound of the TD125!!
What else? The arm... The arm is wired as any other arm. It's effective arm mass is 10g. It is a good arm so treat it carefully.
The cartridge is compatible with the Audio-Technica AT95E, there are a lot of needles available.
Congrats on the TD125MK2. I just refurbished one today and am listening to it right now! It is a wonderful turntable, a classic, one of the best of all times...
HOWEVER, and i don't want to be a bad guy, for the do-it-yourself turntable enthusiast, this is one of the most difficult turntables to repair/get back in good shape. I would advise you to either (a) sell it to another DIY enthusiast or (b) arm yourself with time and patience because you will need it.
Now, i'm assuming you choose alternative (b)
Let me do a quick checklists of what you have to do. First, does the motor turn? does the turntable spin and the stroboscope lights up showing the speed is reasonably stable ? I'll assume "YES".
So this is standard manteinance for the TD125MK2:
1. Remove bottom cover.
2. Unscrew the control circuit board (2 screws) and replace the two big 1000uF capacitors. Be sure to put the new ones in the correct polarity. 1000, 2000, 3300uF capacitors will work OK, the bigger the better. They should be 25V or 50V rating.
3. Be sure that the top plate (the one that "floats") is level. You can use a bubble level to check. If it isn't level, on the underside of the turntable there are three white "knobs" that you can turn to raise/lower the suspended part of the turntable.
4. Now i assume that if you turn on the turntable, it spins at 33RPM correctly, i.e. the stroboscope marks stand reasonably still. If they wobble too much or don't reach correct speed (despite the turntable belt is correctly located on the motor spindle), then do the voltage/speed adjustment detailed in the service manual.
5. Once the turntable is level you must make sure the motor spindle is level too. For this, there is a screw that controls the azimuth of the motor. It is visible if you take out the outer platter. It has some enamel applied at the factory (so it doesn't move). Remove the outer platter and turn the turntable on. The inner platter will spin. Now stop the inner platter with your hand and check what happens to the belt in the motor spindle. If it goes UP, then you need to turn that screw counter-clockwise. If it goes DOWN then you need to turn the screw clockwise.
Now put the outer platter on and do the same test (stop the outer platter with your hand). Then verify that the belt does not go out of the correct motor pulley section. Correct the azimuth screw as necessary.
6. You may want to clean the switch contacts in the control circuit board. As mentioned before, DO NOT REMOVE THE FRONT PLATE. There is no need to do it and it's a very difficult procedure.
7. The main bearing. You want it to spin freely without making any noise. Try draining the lubricant and cleaning it with solvent. Clean the inner platter spindle (in other words the bearing spindle) using metal polish paste. It should shine as new.
Pour light machine oil (i.e. 3-in-1 oil) on the bearing reservoir. Pour a lot of oil. When pushing the spindle in, if you push in quickly, the excess oil will force the brass bearing bushings to pop out. Then you have a great opportunity to clean them with some solvent.
To correctly reassemble the bearing, push the spindle gently, softly, until it slowly enters the bearings without popping out the bronze bushings.
It is VERY IMPORTANT to have the inner platter spin freely and with no kind of noise at all (you need to be in a silent room to check this). Unless you don't want to bring out the audiophile sound of the TD125!!
What else? The arm... The arm is wired as any other arm. It's effective arm mass is 10g. It is a good arm so treat it carefully.
The cartridge is compatible with the Audio-Technica AT95E, there are a lot of needles available.
Also, there's a light bulb in the control circuit. This is a *critical* component of the control circuit, if it's broken, the turntable will not work. So Don't mess with it! Don't touch it! Don't even look at it !! If the motor spins then the light bulb is OK. What i mean is: Be careful not to break the light bulb.
If the motor does not turn or it turns irregularly (or makes noises), then the control circuit is faulty. Assuming the switch contacts are clean and that the power capacitors (1000uF) have been replaced and that the light bulb conducts current (use a digital multimeter to check it)... Then the part that might be faulty are the power transistors (4) and -least likely- the opamps. The Opamps are model 709c (outdated, older than my grandma), and can be replaced with the very common 741 opamp IF YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING... which means, if you go to the Vinylengine forum and search more about this substitution.
Cheers!
PS: Any problem with the turntable motor not spinning or not spinning correctly is 99% fault of the control circuit board. Don't be tempted with replacing the motors. Those motors do not fail, they are German products of the highest caliber, straight from the Gods.
!! If the motor spins then the light bulb is OK. What i mean is: Be careful not to break the light bulb.If the motor does not turn or it turns irregularly (or makes noises), then the control circuit is faulty. Assuming the switch contacts are clean and that the power capacitors (1000uF) have been replaced and that the light bulb conducts current (use a digital multimeter to check it)... Then the part that might be faulty are the power transistors (4) and -least likely- the opamps. The Opamps are model 709c (outdated, older than my grandma), and can be replaced with the very common 741 opamp IF YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING... which means, if you go to the Vinylengine forum and search more about this substitution.
Cheers!
PS: Any problem with the turntable motor not spinning or not spinning correctly is 99% fault of the control circuit board. Don't be tempted with replacing the motors. Those motors do not fail, they are German products of the highest caliber, straight from the Gods.
That's the TD126 or the TD145, not the TD125. The 125 is fully manual.
The electronics on the 125 / 125MKII are essential to the turntable. Nothing to be bypassed.
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Yes, very important!! On the bottom of the turntable there is a small circuit board covered by a big black cover. If you take out the cover you will see the mains fuse. The fuse can be placed in 2 different sockets, one is for 220V the other for 110V so double check!!
If it was at 110V and you connected it to 220V, some electronic components may be damaged... You will need then to replace the power transistors (4), the ICs (2) and the power supply capacitors (2), plus maybe the rectifier diode bridge (1). The motor will probably be fine.
Thanks that is a HUGE amount of info
The motor is not spinning! But when i plug the unit in and turn it on i do get an orange light which is most visible with the top plate removed.
The motor spindle and the turntable section all spin freely and the rod from the table is still covered in lube if i remove it entirely.
So im assuming that there is something wrong with the control section of the table. I will investigate today and post some pics
thanks again
The motor is not spinning! But when i plug the unit in and turn it on i do get an orange light which is most visible with the top plate removed.
The motor spindle and the turntable section all spin freely and the rod from the table is still covered in lube if i remove it entirely.
So im assuming that there is something wrong with the control section of the table. I will investigate today and post some pics
thanks again
Mine is indeed a TD126 Mk II. Five/six ... who cares! I'm the original owner and I've had it so long that I had forgotten what it is called.
The 3A fuse is plenty large enough and provides redundant protection in the event of a short somewhere after the plug and before the internal fuse..
What cone (?) are you referring to?
I have no clue what he was referring to..
When the motor is running the shaft may rise slightly due to the magnetic field inside the motor, but this is certainly less than 1mm and is largely irrelevant except to the mech E who designed the drive.
You will need to trouble shoot the various sections of the drive electronics or find someone who can help you.
I reckon its the transistors
Hi
go here
TD125 MKII circuitry
Have a look at the parts list in .xls format.
I have had a 125 for many years and it stopped working twice.. it was the transistors (T1 to T4) I replaced them and the unit fired up. They are not expensive.
Good luck
Hi
go here
TD125 MKII circuitry
Have a look at the parts list in .xls format.
I have had a 125 for many years and it stopped working twice.. it was the transistors (T1 to T4) I replaced them and the unit fired up. They are not expensive.
Good luck
Hello,
My name is Luciano and I'm from Argentina. I would like to ask you for help with the replacement of the stroboscopic lamp of my td 125 mkII. Here we use 220v voltage. I understand that you are an expert at this table. Do you know what would be the direct replacement of neon? Or some other with resistance in series? Maybe a led circuit?
I would be very grateful if you could help me. Regards!
My name is Luciano and I'm from Argentina. I would like to ask you for help with the replacement of the stroboscopic lamp of my td 125 mkII. Here we use 220v voltage. I understand that you are an expert at this table. Do you know what would be the direct replacement of neon? Or some other with resistance in series? Maybe a led circuit?
I would be very grateful if you could help me. Regards!
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