Help with noise reduction capacitor on old turntable

awty · 2nd November 2011, 11:51 PM

Hi all
I'm in the process of restoring an old Orpheus turntable. Its a Transcription type running an ac motor (Australian power 230vlt 50hrz?).
It has a little noise reduction capacitor (well at least that's what I think it is, see photo) that Isn't working (allows power through, so motor runs on or off, see pdf for how it was wired).

If someone could tell me what to buy to replace it, that would be swell? Or is there a better more modern (SIMPLE) solution?

Any tips on grounding would be also appreciated. Should I ground the platter separate to the deck. Platter doesn't touch the deck except for nylon bushes.

Thanks any input will be appreciated. I've been using this forum and others to find lots of helpful info, but cant find any on this.

data · 09:30 AM

Someone needs to confirm this is the correct type as I'm only 95% sure

I don't see why there would be any need to ground the platter, at all

awty · 4th November 2011, 09:12 AM

Thanks mate. Reckon thats it, actually I have no idea, but I'll give it a go.
I'll see how the platter goes ungrounded, it was originally grounded to the deck, cant see the logic in that, but hey there's a lot I don't know about turntable, but I'm learning.

Thanks again much appreciated.

data · 11:23 AM

I'm just going on the PDF that denotes it as a "Class X" no doubt it is some sort of safety/suppression type of cap.

The platter was grounded?

Hmm...odd, to me anyhow, I guess if there is some sort of noise issue you can try grounding it.

DF96 · 4th November 2011, 12:42 PM

The capacitor is there to prevent sparking degrading the switch when turning off the inductive load (motor). If the motor now runs whether the switch is on or off then the cap has shorted, which a genuine mains-rated cap should never do. It may be that the original cap is a fake, or maybe it is not original but the result of an incompetent previous repair.

The usual problem with mains-rated caps is that they slowly reduce in value due to mains spikes burning little holes in the metalisation - they are designed to act in this way.

In this application any X or Y rated cap should do. The value is not too critical but don't stray too far from the original.

awty · 4th November 2011, 09:51 PM

Data I stole the diagram from this pdf as it was easier than trying to draw one up myself.

Thank you for the explanation DF96, its likely I did something to the capacitor, maybe soldering too close .

So Data's second choice should do the job? Sorry just need to know what to get.

awty · 4th November 2011, 10:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by awty

Data I stole the diagram from this pdf as it was easier than trying to draw one up myself. .

http://www.okaya.com/images/noise/1100.pdf

data · 6th November 2011, 02:17 PM

Yeah, I would think that if that's the way it was connected as in the PDF, then it seems that the one stated in the PDF would be correct... "Class X"
Though is there any difference with a X1 and a X2 for example?

Found some useful info in these links ABC's of Safety (Interference Suppression) Capacitors for Tube Radios
Line-Filter

awty · 9th November 2011, 07:16 AM

Ta
I ended up getting the X1 as I could buy them singularly to make up the minimum $10 purchase. Quick delivery and the powers all sorted, no more pops when turning off.
Thanks mate.

awty · 9th November 2011, 10:45 PM

All done, apart from needing a few tweaks here and there.

3rd November 2011, 09:21 AM	#2
data Account disabled at member's request Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Brisbane	Someone needs to confirm this is the correct type as I'm only 95% sure EVOX RIFA\|PME271Y510M\|CAPACITOR, CLASS Y2, 0.01UF \| element14 Australia Looking at the PDF, maybe It's this one you need VISHAY BC COMPONENTS\|BFC233810103\|CAPACITOR, CLASS X1, 0.01UF, 440V \| element14 Australia I think you need the second one, but hopefully someone can confirm I don't see why there would be any need to ground the platter, at all Last edited by data; 3rd November 2011 at 09:30 AM.

4th November 2011, 11:19 AM	#4
data Account disabled at member's request Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Brisbane	I'm just going on the PDF that denotes it as a "Class X" no doubt it is some sort of safety/suppression type of cap. The platter was grounded? Hmm...odd, to me anyhow, I guess if there is some sort of noise issue you can try grounding it. Last edited by data; 4th November 2011 at 11:23 AM.

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4th November 2011, 09:12 AM	#3
awty diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Redliffe QLD	Thanks mate. Reckon thats it, actually I have no idea, but I'll give it a go. I'll see how the platter goes ungrounded, it was originally grounded to the deck, cant see the logic in that, but hey there's a lot I don't know about turntable, but I'm learning. Thanks again much appreciated.

4th November 2011, 12:42 PM	#5
DF96 diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2007	The capacitor is there to prevent sparking degrading the switch when turning off the inductive load (motor). If the motor now runs whether the switch is on or off then the cap has shorted, which a genuine mains-rated cap should never do. It may be that the original cap is a fake, or maybe it is not original but the result of an incompetent previous repair. The usual problem with mains-rated caps is that they slowly reduce in value due to mains spikes burning little holes in the metalisation - they are designed to act in this way. In this application any X or Y rated cap should do. The value is not too critical but don't stray too far from the original.

4th November 2011, 09:51 PM	#6
awty diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Redliffe QLD	Data I stole the diagram from this pdf as it was easier than trying to draw one up myself. Thank you for the explanation DF96, its likely I did something to the capacitor, maybe soldering too close . So Data's second choice should do the job? Sorry just need to know what to get.

6th November 2011, 02:17 PM	#8
data Account disabled at member's request Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Brisbane	Yeah, I would think that if that's the way it was connected as in the PDF, then it seems that the one stated in the PDF would be correct... "Class X" Though is there any difference with a X1 and a X2 for example? Found some useful info in these links ABC's of Safety (Interference Suppression) Capacitors for Tube Radios Line-Filter

9th November 2011, 07:16 AM	#9
awty diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Redliffe QLD	Ta I ended up getting the X1 as I could buy them singularly to make up the minimum $10 purchase. Quick delivery and the powers all sorted, no more pops when turning off. Thanks mate.