Thorens TD 150 bearing

[jojospecial]

Hi. Does anybody know how I can remove the bearing from the subchassis? I can't see any threads, or any obvius way of removing it. Could it be pressed in the subchassis and be as one?
Any help would be usefull as I've searched everywhere and all mods use the old subchassis so the wel doesn't have to be remoced.
Thanks.

[BOON]

I have a TD150 and used to have a TD160. I think you are asking about the bearing well. I think that the bearing well was pressed in, and can think of no non-destructive way of getting it out. Other Thorens models had a bearing well with a flange, that was affixed to the subchassis by small screws. Not the 150 or 160.

Even it you got it out without deforming it, I don't see how you could install it in another subchassis in a properly-perpendicular (to the surface of the platter) manner.

Most people that try to upgrade those bearings do it by inserting a smooth disc down into the well.

Best of luck, though

[jojospecial]

Thank you. I've come to the same conclution myself. It can't be removed and be restored afterwards. I'll use the well and part of the metal surrounding it and make a solid not suspended tt.

[amaco]

I have TD-115 but no bearings in the TD-115 ! I think you remove Bearing instead of plastic it is smooth. Bests

[Toaster]

When I've butchered, sorry, I mean modified, TD150s and 160s in the past I just took a hacksaw to the chassis and cut the bearing out with enough metal around it to act as a flange. Obviously the bearing well needs to be cover to stop bits of swarf or anything else getting in it...

[jojospecial]

That's what I'am doing. Nice suggestion to tap the well. It would be in bad shape if I had left it open. Thanks.

[Toaster]

No problem! Good luck with the mod. I've had good results from just using 18mm MDF cut in an irregular shape, but other attempts have used laminations of wood and aluminium to even better effect. The standard chassis' on '160s and '150s are very resonant and bendy. Replacing the springs with, say, sorbothane pucks can be an improvement too. The motor vibration seems to be isolated quite effectively this way, and avoids spurious lateral movement of the subchassis on springs from modulating the pitch. Whether this works better for you than springs depends on your support surface, expectations and preferences of course! What materials and structures are you going to be using?

[jojospecial]

I am thinking of bonding the bearing and the additional surrounding area with cement mixed with some sound deadening compount (I am still searching whats availiable), this part will be attached to an mdf plane that will be suspended with the use of a lot of small magnets to the plinth.

[Toaster]

That's an interesting idea. I must admit I'm a bit conservative about permanently attaching the bearing, in case you need to replace it. I'd probably settle for an interference fit or tight slip fit to a sleeve under the main subchassis, but I admire your commitment! No doubt you've already thought of this, but I think I'd want to include 'stops' to avoid the possibility of the subchassis being ejected by the opposing magnets if it got misaligned!

[jdef]

The bearing can be pressed out of the sub-chassis with care. I have done it several times. They are a tight push fit. A bench vice is ideal as the force can be applied in a controlled manner. Put a large deep socket (or some other spacer) over the top of the bearing to allow space for the bearing to go into and protect the other end with a piece of wood between the bearing base and the vice jaw. Then just tighten the vice up and it will ease out.

Jolyon