I am making a slate plinth with two layers of alloy sandwiched very much like Mikiel's (check spelling) as shown in AA.
Vinyl Asylum: Technics SP-10 Mk3, new plinth, Reed arm, first impressions. by mikel
I will be using a heavyweight unipivot [DIY] and a Kondo Io. The motor will be mounted Kenata style [without top-plate]. The power supply has been mounted in a seperate chassis as an outboard unit. HAving had a few months of sickness I am now ready to go. Will post pics when finished.
Vinyl Asylum: Technics SP-10 Mk3, new plinth, Reed arm, first impressions. by mikel
I will be using a heavyweight unipivot [DIY] and a Kondo Io. The motor will be mounted Kenata style [without top-plate]. The power supply has been mounted in a seperate chassis as an outboard unit. HAving had a few months of sickness I am now ready to go. Will post pics when finished.
Ditto my previous post about watching and stealing ideas. I like the look of that one too, and I had always intended to have the electronics external (have case stored already for them) and prefer the appearance sans the original SP10 chassis, so construction pics and details would be nice when you do it please.
Hi,
while I´m not using a SP10 I had the chance to get a SL5210 at ebay.
I planned to use the motor and electronics and maybe even the arm, but to omit with the cabinet and fancy nicknack like Repeat, Automatic, Quartz-drive Off and so on. Just On/Off and 33/45 remains. Tonearm will be a Rega RB300 which adds to the straight pure looks.
Designwise I reallly like the Bauer DPS. Its a rather slim outlined deck with no fancy. I also liked the sandwich structure of the DPS plinth, combining several materials.
From bottom to top:
1) a thin green coloured foam layer
2) a thick granite slab (on which the motor casing rests). Its an aluminum plate in the new models to which the motor block is now screwed onto.
3) 3 feet of a foamy structured material
4) a sandwich of 3 layers of plywood and 2 layers of a filled heavy rubber material topped by a thin layer of cork
5) a thick acrylic top plate that holds the bearing and the Tonearm
All 5 components are just put together on top of each other, fixed only by their own weight.
Even though this sandwich builds quite high, the optical impression is slim and elegant. I doesn´t look as thick, massive, fat and disproportioned (to my eyes) as the plinths shown here, even though some of them are beautifully finished.
I´ll choose a similar but simpler approach.
It starts with a plywood base. Aluminim strips will later be connected to this base plate for optical reasons and as mount for the connectors.
Followed by a thin layer of rubber foam
A layer of plywood with openings for the electronics (right) motor (mid ) and tonearm (left). The motor will be bolted to this layer.
A layer of MDF is glued ontop of the playwood, forming a sandwich
As visible top-layer serves a plate made from slate, either just fixed by weight or by double sided stick tape. The tonearm will be mounted onto the slate plate.
Rem: You may just notice the two tiny holes at the left front corner/edge. Two capacitive touch sensors are mounted below the surface of the slate functioning as switches for On/Off and 33/45. Optical fibres anding at dual colour-LEDs mark the positions of the sensor fields.
And with new lid which is a part from Numark
Rem: besides beeing one of the cheapest replacement lids around, I like its form and the fact that You can play the deck and handle the sensor fields with the lid on.
Its not finsished yet. The aluminium needs to be brushed anodyzed in black and the electronics will undergo some tweaking. But the pics may just give You an impression of the conceptual ideas behind and the looks.
jauu
Calvin
while I´m not using a SP10 I had the chance to get a SL5210 at ebay.
I planned to use the motor and electronics and maybe even the arm, but to omit with the cabinet and fancy nicknack like Repeat, Automatic, Quartz-drive Off and so on. Just On/Off and 33/45 remains. Tonearm will be a Rega RB300 which adds to the straight pure looks.
Designwise I reallly like the Bauer DPS. Its a rather slim outlined deck with no fancy. I also liked the sandwich structure of the DPS plinth, combining several materials.
From bottom to top:
1) a thin green coloured foam layer
2) a thick granite slab (on which the motor casing rests). Its an aluminum plate in the new models to which the motor block is now screwed onto.
3) 3 feet of a foamy structured material
4) a sandwich of 3 layers of plywood and 2 layers of a filled heavy rubber material topped by a thin layer of cork
5) a thick acrylic top plate that holds the bearing and the Tonearm
All 5 components are just put together on top of each other, fixed only by their own weight.
Even though this sandwich builds quite high, the optical impression is slim and elegant. I doesn´t look as thick, massive, fat and disproportioned (to my eyes) as the plinths shown here, even though some of them are beautifully finished.
I´ll choose a similar but simpler approach.
It starts with a plywood base. Aluminim strips will later be connected to this base plate for optical reasons and as mount for the connectors.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Followed by a thin layer of rubber foam
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
A layer of plywood with openings for the electronics (right) motor (mid ) and tonearm (left). The motor will be bolted to this layer.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
A layer of MDF is glued ontop of the playwood, forming a sandwich
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
As visible top-layer serves a plate made from slate, either just fixed by weight or by double sided stick tape. The tonearm will be mounted onto the slate plate.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Rem: You may just notice the two tiny holes at the left front corner/edge. Two capacitive touch sensors are mounted below the surface of the slate functioning as switches for On/Off and 33/45. Optical fibres anding at dual colour-LEDs mark the positions of the sensor fields.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
And with new lid which is a part from Numark
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Rem: besides beeing one of the cheapest replacement lids around, I like its form and the fact that You can play the deck and handle the sensor fields with the lid on.
Its not finsished yet. The aluminium needs to be brushed anodyzed in black and the electronics will undergo some tweaking. But the pics may just give You an impression of the conceptual ideas behind and the looks.
jauu
Calvin
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It's going to be a while before I get rolling on this project.
Personally, I find myself wanting to relax when I get home from work. Weekends find me working on other "to-do" lists. Stuff that needs to get done.
So those are my excuses for not diving right into this SP-10 mkII project.
However I have been planning.
Here are a couple of sketch renders. This one is to be considered a "light" plinth by today's standards. As time goes by, I will make more massive ones, but I thought it only proper to try, potentially, three different weights of plinths. Light, medium and heavy.
So here is the proposed "Light" plinth.
without armboard:
I'll need to make a trip to my local plywood store for some more baltic birch plywood to complete this design. Current inventory allows for 3 of the 6 layers needed.
Finish will be multi-coat lacquer. Black.
Armboard will be in solid Purpleheart with no finish coating.
The design will allow for 9 inch up to 12 inch tonearm mounting.
My first arm will be the black Zeta that I mentioned previously.
Probably, before the end of July, I'll have more info to add to this thread.
later,
-Steve
Personally, I find myself wanting to relax when I get home from work. Weekends find me working on other "to-do" lists. Stuff that needs to get done.
So those are my excuses for not diving right into this SP-10 mkII project.
However I have been planning.
Here are a couple of sketch renders. This one is to be considered a "light" plinth by today's standards. As time goes by, I will make more massive ones, but I thought it only proper to try, potentially, three different weights of plinths. Light, medium and heavy.
So here is the proposed "Light" plinth.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
without armboard:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I'll need to make a trip to my local plywood store for some more baltic birch plywood to complete this design. Current inventory allows for 3 of the 6 layers needed.
Finish will be multi-coat lacquer. Black.
Armboard will be in solid Purpleheart with no finish coating.
The design will allow for 9 inch up to 12 inch tonearm mounting.
My first arm will be the black Zeta that I mentioned previously.
Probably, before the end of July, I'll have more info to add to this thread.
later,
-Steve
Last edited:
Updates:
It's August and I still haven't done anything in the garage for this project.
But I have been busy making plans for plinth design.
Here are some more fully thought out details for what is to come.
This view suggests different weights of builds. Call it light, medium, heavy. It is the same plinth design but with more or less layers of baltic birch plywood between the top and bottom layers. The light version measures 3 inches from top plate to bottom plate. Medium is 4 inches. Heavy is 5 inches.
Here's a view showing more detail of the build:
Nothing difficult to build. Tonearm wires and power plugs exit through the bottom plate without having to disassemble anything.
I have a tendency to mess around with turntables after a while, so I want to make it easy to mount, dismount both tonearms and the chassis.
For those interested in making their own version of this design here is a dimensioned layout of the top view in pdf format.
http://www.theanalogdept.com/images/spp6_pics/User510/sp10mkII/sp10%20plinths/sp10%20mkII%20top%20layout%20dims.pdf
The above drawing is meant to be printed to 11 x 17. If you can't print that big, use the snapshot tool in Adobe Reader to split the drawing into two separate 8-1/2 x 11 inch prints. This should enable you to read it clearly.
-Steve
It's August and I still haven't done anything in the garage for this project.
But I have been busy making plans for plinth design.
Here are some more fully thought out details for what is to come.
This view suggests different weights of builds. Call it light, medium, heavy. It is the same plinth design but with more or less layers of baltic birch plywood between the top and bottom layers. The light version measures 3 inches from top plate to bottom plate. Medium is 4 inches. Heavy is 5 inches.
Here's a view showing more detail of the build:
Nothing difficult to build. Tonearm wires and power plugs exit through the bottom plate without having to disassemble anything.
I have a tendency to mess around with turntables after a while, so I want to make it easy to mount, dismount both tonearms and the chassis.
For those interested in making their own version of this design here is a dimensioned layout of the top view in pdf format.
http://www.theanalogdept.com/images/spp6_pics/User510/sp10mkII/sp10%20plinths/sp10%20mkII%20top%20layout%20dims.pdf
The above drawing is meant to be printed to 11 x 17. If you can't print that big, use the snapshot tool in Adobe Reader to split the drawing into two separate 8-1/2 x 11 inch prints. This should enable you to read it clearly.
-Steve
I have had both versions of the factory plinth; the full lava rock one was a big improvement on the rosewood+lava domestic version. Too busy at the moment to complete my motor only version in slate and alloy. However hope to be on the job again as soon as the visitor list has completed and the salmon fishing has quietened down.
The plinths above were significant improvements on any heavy wooden version I have heard, though I have not heard the heavy fruitwood and "drained" types. So I endorse the favoured high mass solutions.
The plinths above were significant improvements on any heavy wooden version I have heard, though I have not heard the heavy fruitwood and "drained" types. So I endorse the favoured high mass solutions.
I was daydreaming about using lead shot. There would be plenty of areas on this design that could contain significant amounts of shot.
I believe the Teres/Galibier/Redpoint groups tended to use #9. Sometimes with silicone oil.
It's all possible.
Although I wonder if there isn't a suitable substitute for lead shot. While it is excellent for its density, lead is also an environmental hazard. Not very 'green' for 2011.
-Steve
That's where I originally got the idea years ago.
How is it a hazard sealed inside an enclosure? Use gloves if that paranoid when handling it (I've never needed to actually touch the lead using it this way), and when it comes time to dispose of the plinth, remove the lead and take to a metal recycler.
I'm beginning to think 'green' means remove thinking processes before commenting.
Not paranoia so much as being socially responsible.
If we use it and write about it on the web, others will also.
I'd just like to find a substitute that works similarly but without the bio-hazard properties that lead has.
substitutes:
Thorens, back in the seventies, used a kind of cast iron granule for the same purpose within the plinth of the Reference. I suppose that the iron on all those surviving References has turned to rust by now.
Steel shot with oil.
Tungsten shot ($$$)
?
ideas?
-Steve
It is only a biohazard if not contained*, which it is in this application. When it needs to be disposed of, do so in the correct manner via local laws and recycling processes where it will most likely be re melted and used in other applications. It's not like it's radioactive and proximity to it alone is harmful.
So explain to me how it is harmful enclased in an epoxy coated block of wood that will (most likely) never move. It's not like it's going to be fed to children or scattered in waterways.
* obviously referring to lead shot here.
So explain to me how it is harmful enclased in an epoxy coated block of wood that will (most likely) never move. It's not like it's going to be fed to children or scattered in waterways.
* obviously referring to lead shot here.
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It's not the lead shot that goes in the plinth that is of concern. It's the stuff left over that gets left in a sealed container, in the garage, then forgotten. You die (natural causes). Someone else goes rummaging around your stuff in the garage afterward and starts tossing this and that around. That's the shot that has the potential to contaminate the environment.
Then the others who read these threads, try it and aren't so particular about how they dispose of the excess shot. etc.
-Steve
So you espouse responsibility for potentially toxic materials, but are too lazy to dispose of your own excess correctly? Somewhat of a double standard, no?
Long bow drawn to make a point. So your family wouldn't care either?
I am far from green poster boy, but I spent an hour ringing around and googling to find out what to do with the chemicals and other waste products in my mother's home after she died. It wasn't difficult.
Well now they have read several posts that discuss correct recycling or disposal. If they choose not to do so, then they are foolish and irresponsible. You saying DONT! is hardly likely to change their behaviour then, and it's not your job.
Someone else's potentially unsociable behaviour that may or may not occur, is a universal reason for not using an otherwise safe product that is effective, cheap and recyclable?
The past two weekends have been spent in the garage preparing the plinth in these next four photos.
At this stage I am checking for fit of the motor unit to the plinth. Then fitting the armboard. Tomorrow, I layout the drill targets for mounting the tonearm, which will be a Black Zeta as noted at the beginning of the thread.
The plinth is still rough and requires much more sanding board work before I can begin the lacquer process. But the overall shape can be seen.
I chose to build the heaviest version of the three drawings that I made. This is a large heavy turntable. Length 22.375 inches. Width: 18 inches. I haven't weighed the unit, but can tell just by carrying the thing around that this is indeed a massive thing.
I should have the tonearm fitted and aligned by tomorrow. Perhaps I'll be able to give the rig a test spin prior to doing any further work.
-Steve
At this stage I am checking for fit of the motor unit to the plinth. Then fitting the armboard. Tomorrow, I layout the drill targets for mounting the tonearm, which will be a Black Zeta as noted at the beginning of the thread.
The plinth is still rough and requires much more sanding board work before I can begin the lacquer process. But the overall shape can be seen.
I chose to build the heaviest version of the three drawings that I made. This is a large heavy turntable. Length 22.375 inches. Width: 18 inches. I haven't weighed the unit, but can tell just by carrying the thing around that this is indeed a massive thing.
I should have the tonearm fitted and aligned by tomorrow. Perhaps I'll be able to give the rig a test spin prior to doing any further work.
-Steve
Hi Helmuth.
Time will tell soon enough when I have it finished. But in my first idea, I thought the black lacquer plinth would contrast nicely to the aluminum of the motor unit. And the deep red of the purpleheart would compliment the black of both the plinth and tonearm.
But also I chose purpleheart for this project because I've used it before and liked both the sound I got as well as the looks of it against a different black lacquer plinth.
-Steve
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