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-   -   TD124 mk1 RB301 new plinth and service (http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analogue-source/189401-td124-mk1-rb301-new-plinth-service.html)

Helmuth 21st May 2011 11:02 AM

TD124 mk1 RB301 new plinth and service
 
2 Attachment(s)
Hi all,

I had been searching for a td160 and rebuild a dual CS16. I did read Kevins threat and decided that for now I will spend some more money and buy one of those great vintige turn table designs.
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...lm3/pickup.jpg
Top on the list TD124, second Garrard 401 and third Garrard 301.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attac...1&d=1305976096
http://www.soundfountain.com/amb/rsr401bastin2.jpg
http://www.theanalogdept.com/images/...rard301_05.JPG



To my surprise I managed to buy a td124 in visual top condition all ready serviced.

It came in yester day it looks super as for beying older then 42 years I am 43 years and also look yust as new as the td124 :D.

The service job on the TT wasn't more that a dusting one I believe I see a defective capacitor of 10nF it is become thicker like we all do when we grow older so he can't help it. And it just can not reach the right max-speed. I already did some eddy-current break adjustment it isn't enough jet. Maybe the idle wheel is worn-down in diameter.
When cleaning the top of the turntable the rubber-plate was made black whit some black polish to look new I removed it right away. Without it look nice semi-gloss.

I just went to my favorite hobby shop they alway do a great job sawing parts precise to my specification and at a normal price.

And see here the RB301 arm came of my first TT project and has "van den Hul" silver tonearm wires.


So now I need a template to cut the 5 hardwood plywood plates to create a nice heavy plinth.
The outside is birch plywood the top and bottom is TRESPA a hard material witch will be painted black.
The arm board is of mdf to have the right thickness.

Mann I have to get to work I have to finish my tube amp and build the plinth for the thorens.:cool:

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attac...1&d=1305976573

Helmuth 21st May 2011 01:58 PM

Arm board
 
3 Attachment(s)
After cutting a 71-322 mm piece of 12mm mdf.

At the inside I made a 30 degree angle.

Then I drilled the two holes at the outside. Mounted the board and at the bottom drilled the third hole for perfect fit.

With the router a copied the radius of the td124 frame. And then copied it to the arm-board.

Now i need a template to place the hole for the RB301.

Helmuth 21st May 2011 03:26 PM

5 Attachment(s)
Next step tone arm mount hole and paint.

first picture the template with the right radius to mount the rb300. Big hole is the hart of the main bearing and the small hole the center for the tone arm. Fist very nice the VTA will be very near ideal with a lp thickness added.

The no nonsense shape off the RB301 fits the TD124 perfect.

Telemann 21st May 2011 05:23 PM

Congratulations with your TD124 - it's a wonderful deck. Requires some attention - think sports car that has to be tuned, lubed and properly fueled, and then it really delivers wonderful music.

I have found a number of variables that influence sound and playback - and the Thorens restoration thread here was really helpful in that respect, with lots of good advice.

My idler wheels for my MKII are old, and I can't guarantee that they haven't been ground true again, but the diameter is 79mm.

Helmuth 21st May 2011 05:31 PM

Thanks Teleman I will check mine idlerwheel right away.

Helmuth 21st May 2011 06:21 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Ok now after this day of work.

Made a design for the plinth gone to the hobby shop and got me what I needed.

First made the tone arm board. Sanded and painted it, solved the speed problem I only hat to remove the motor and oil the bearings of it. The idler wheel of mine is 80mm. So here the result tonearm plate ready.

I wil make a plan now how to cut out the inside of the hardwood body.

Telemann 21st May 2011 07:18 PM

Some points to consider.

1. Belts are not just belts. Their rubber composition and tension influence the speed, noise and stability of your deck. With one belt I have a whispering engine, but variable speed; with another I have a little engine whirr, but perfect stability and speed control; with a third I have reduced whirr, but some variation in speed during an evening's play.

2. Clean belts, pulleys, spindle wells, shafts - get rid of old oil, use new high viscosity oil.

3. Find a good balance between belt, the run of your drivetrain (after cleaning and lubing), and the position of the eddy pull magnet. You don't want the magnet interfering too much with the free run of the step pulley.

And here's a 64.000 dollar question:
My step pulley inside does not have the dark semi-circle of dark paint that one sees on a lot of step pulleys. I suspect this is paint that contains ferrous particles, to further increase the effect of the eddy pull magnet - but I'm willing to stand corrected. Someone's cleaned that off my step pulley.

user510 21st May 2011 08:13 PM

Helmuth:
welcome to the club!
It looks like you are well on your way to having a nice example of the breed.

Below is a shot of my first TD124 after initial disassembly and clean-up....including my first motor maintenance session. I was using an upgraded Rega RB250 tonearm mounted to a painted mdf armboard. And a standard Denon DL-103R lomc cartridge. That combination proved to be very good, btw.

http://www.theanalogdept.com/images/...4/DSC_1898.jpg

I was using the open box plinth that came with the TT. Constructed of 3/4 inch thick plywood. And mushrooms. Many TD124 owners still prefer this type of setup. It did have excellent energy output in this orientation.

Since this photo was taken I have learned to improve the turntable in many small but significant ways. Now it is substantially better than it was on that first "early" listening session.


With regard to idler wheel diameters,the exact diameter of that wheel is not critical. Small differences in idler wheel diameter won't affect platter rpm. Platter rpm is determined by the motor rpm,drive pulley diameter, the diameters on the driven step pulley, and finally the inside diameter of the driven platter rim.

On the other hand, condition of the idler wheel is critical. The roundness (circularity) of the outer surface of the tire needs to be good. Fortunately, most of these idler wheels have survived well over the decades.

happy spins...:p

-Steve

Telemann 21st May 2011 08:18 PM

Steve,

A question - how does one influence the push of the idler wheel against the step pulley? Is this adjustable - there is a certain amount of spring load to the idler wheel assembly, laterally towards the step pulley, but as the idler wheel also connects with the platter wall, I would think that the amount of push against the step pulley was important - in order to avoid any slippage.

@Helmuth - It really looks like someone took very good care of the deck you got hold of. A beauty!

Helmuth 21st May 2011 08:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by user510 (Post 2579490)
Helmuth:
welcome to the club!
It looks like you are well on your way to having a nice example of the breed.

Below is a shot of my first TD124 after initial disassembly and clean-up....including my first motor maintenance session. I was using an upgraded Rega RB250 tonearm mounted to a painted mdf armboard. And a standard Denon DL-103R lomc cartridge. That combination proved to be very good, btw.

http://www.theanalogdept.com/images/...4/DSC_1898.jpg

I was using the open box plinth that came with the TT. Constructed of 3/4 inch thick plywood. And mushrooms. Many TD124 owners still prefer this type of setup. It did have excellent energy output in this orientation.

Since this photo was taken I have learned to improve the turntable in many small but significant ways. Now it is substantially better than it was on that first "early" listening session.


With regard to idler wheel diameters,the exact diameter of that wheel is not critical. Small differences in idler wheel diameter won't affect platter rpm. Platter rpm is determined by the motor rpm,drive pulley diameter, the diameters on the driven step pulley, and finally the inside diameter of the driven platter rim.

On the other hand, condition of the idler wheel is critical. The roundness (circularity) of the outer surface of the tire needs to be good. Fortunately, most of these idler wheels have survived well over the decades.

happy spins...:p

-Steve

Really am I a member now good to hear that.

Nice looking turntables User510. What kind of improvements do you mean witch helped to let the TD124 sound better?

Regards Helmuth


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