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Old 26th May 2011, 01:49 PM   #41
jlsem is offline jlsem  United States
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Here is a photo of a Thorens 124 plinth I made for a friend of mine about five years ago. It is made from Panzerholz, which has a very hign damping capacity compared to solid wood and regular plywood.

Click the image to open in full size.

John
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Old 26th May 2011, 03:14 PM   #42
Helmuth is offline Helmuth  Netherlands
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlsem View Post
Here is a photo of a Thorens 124 plinth I made for a friend of mine about five years ago. It is made from Panzerholz, which has a very hign damping capacity compared to solid wood and regular plywood.

Click the image to open in full size.

John
You have done a great job there john.
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Old 26th May 2011, 05:49 PM   #43
kevinkr is offline kevinkr  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlsem View Post
Here is a photo of a Thorens 124 plinth I made for a friend of mine about five years ago. It is made from Panzerholz, which has a very hign damping capacity compared to solid wood and regular plywood.

Click the image to open in full size.

John
Looks like a very serious piece of kit!
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Old 26th May 2011, 09:11 PM   #44
jlsem is offline jlsem  United States
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Yes, it was built with another arm board at the rear to supplement the Thorens attachments. It's pretty solid. This plinth and another made for the Garrard 301 were the progenitors of a series of plinths I made for the SP-10 for Albert Porter.

http://cgim.audiogon.com/i/vs/s/f/1284840093.jpg

John

Last edited by jlsem; 26th May 2011 at 09:13 PM.
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Old 28th May 2011, 12:20 AM   #45
kevinkr is offline kevinkr  United States
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[QUOTE=Straight Tracker;2583937]
Quote:


The picture of the capacitor seems to indicate that its value is 10 pF. It looks like the "p" is mangeled to appear like an "n". Correct me if I'm wrong.

Sincerely,

Ralf
As Helmuth has indicated it really is 10nF, I have seen three early 124s (one is a former parts unit I own) with the same cap he snapped a picture of, and it is clearly printed on the case. My newer 124/II also uses 10nF but from a different vendor. (Power switch is different oo)
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Old 28th May 2011, 12:02 PM   #46
Helmuth is offline Helmuth  Netherlands
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Default Uncoupling

Hi

I a now listening to the TD-124 To tweak a bit. The paint job has to wait till the motor had a revision.

with the TT running and the coupling turned on we can lay the needle on the TT. The noise generated by vibration of the motor is now amplified. I can hear the noise is less when I lift the TT and hold it in my hands. So the solid rubber feet do not absorb enough.

Ok I have a good idea to solve this.

I have soft rubber 7mm where seats of supersport bikes made off I call it moosgummi.
Wiht the rubber between two triplex plates i can use the holesaw to drill a nice round pice of 40mm. In the bottem plate of 6mm i drill the same hole.

after that I can screw the assebly to gether again.the rubberfeet loose on a screw so it has suspension. Works really great to absorb the minimum vibration left in the plinth.
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File Type: jpg Schermafbeelding 2011-05-28 om 13.54.33.jpg (27.1 KB, 202 views)
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Old 28th May 2011, 12:28 PM   #47
Helmuth is offline Helmuth  Netherlands
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The first turns. The speed is very good constant I do not hear problems with that rumble is acceptable low my current TT is a Technics sl1700 witch has very low rumble figures and is more quit then the Thorens as long the needle isn't on the record.
Click the image to open in full size.

The music reproduced by the Thorens with RB301 is more detailed and brighter bass is also good and tight. What is responsible for gain on brightness I think the silver tone arm wiring. And I think the heavy turntable help to be uninfluenced by the sound-pressure of the speakers and therefor doesn't mess up the low frequencies.

For now I am listening to the Grado red greatbudget cartridge it has a wide and big soundstage and and also good bass. The down side it has problems with the "S" compared to other cartridges it sss. When it is finished I will be running my most exspensive cartridge the goldring 1012. It has good detail and brightness witch with some records tents to sound to thin.
Click the image to open in full size.

When it bothers me then I will switch back to the Shure M97xe really great cartridge very balanced. I have seen it measures very nice and I can hear it doesn't has the level of detail the Grado or Goldring does but it serves you with smooth tonal balance.
Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

One day I want to upgrade to the DL103 But my kids play with my equipment and already broke two cartridges. And that would be to expensive with the dl103.
Click the image to open in full size.
It would complete the color scheme of the TT and the gils will say the color of the TT looks very nice.
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File Type: jpg Schermafbeelding 2011-05-28 om 14.15.18.jpg (45.0 KB, 264 views)
File Type: jpg Schermafbeelding 2011-05-28 om 14.14.55.jpg (48.0 KB, 27 views)
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Last edited by Helmuth; 28th May 2011 at 12:50 PM.
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Old 28th May 2011, 01:06 PM   #48
Helmuth is offline Helmuth  Netherlands
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Close-up.

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 28th May 2011, 03:30 PM   #49
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The switch capacitor is listed in the TD124 service manual as .01 uf.
Although the manual calls it a "condensor". At any rate, I've been using .01 uf value switch caps on my td124 projects and that value does prevent the speakers from popping as you swtich the unit on/off.

The conversion between uf and pf: .01 uf = 10 pf. So the 10pf value would be per spec in the service manual.


Click the image to open in full size.

That's a nice looking setup.

-Steve
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Old 28th May 2011, 03:44 PM   #50
Helmuth is offline Helmuth  Netherlands
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Quote:
Originally Posted by user510 View Post
The switch capacitor is listed in the TD124 service manual as .01 uf.
Although the manual calls it a "condensor". At any rate, I've been using .01 uf value switch caps on my td124 projects and that value does prevent the speakers from popping as you swtich the unit on/off.

The conversion between uf and pf: .01 uf = 10 pf. So the 10pf value would be per spec in the service manual.
Hi steve you are making a fault of 1000 there 10pF =0,00001uF.
The capacitor has to be 10nF=01uF , in europe we call a capacitor a condensator and that in the manual will be a translation fault.

Quote:
That's a nice looking setup.

-Steve
Thanks steve you are very nice , it will get a paint job the wood transparent and the white parts going to be semi gloss-black. Then it will have a professional look to it I hope. First the motor must be upgraded and to prevent scratches I will wait till that is ready.
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Last edited by Helmuth; 28th May 2011 at 03:48 PM.
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