I've recently found in a local store an old Taya DP-500 turntable for a few bucks. The motor runs flawlessly, the platter is quiet and the plinth is made of thick plywood veneered in rosewood. The weak part of the assembly is the cheap tonearm which moreover has some broken part. I would like to put on a new and better tonearm so I'm here to ask your help. The thickness of the plinth is about 2.5 inches and that of the platter about 1.00 inch. The original arm is an "s" shaped 9" one with adjustable VTA and circular base plate. Will you be so kind as to suggest me a vintage or modern tonearm compatible with those specifications? Thanks.
Thanks for your reply. No, that one must be a CP-300. Nice tonearm!!
The DP-500 is this one:
The plastic parts are broken: armrest and armlifter. Moreover the whole assembly gives a nasty sense of unreliability, even if I checked and tightened every single screw in the can. Maybe it suffered some hit or improper use during its service and the bias setting (line and weight) compensates only 0.5gr. even if setted at its highest position. Poor materials imho.
I'd like to put on A Micro Seiki MA-202 which has the same size. Moreover it looks similar but it's better crafted. I've found a used unit on the net but it is the "L" version: 237mm. pivot/spindle and 252mm. effective lenght. While the best choice would be the standard one: 222/237mm.. Do you think it would be possible to arrange the longer version for proper overhang without milling the original mounting hole on the top of the plinth? After all we are talking about 15mm. difference. Do you think I could compensate the overhang only adjusting the headshell? Thanks.
The DP-500 is this one:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The plastic parts are broken: armrest and armlifter. Moreover the whole assembly gives a nasty sense of unreliability, even if I checked and tightened every single screw in the can. Maybe it suffered some hit or improper use during its service and the bias setting (line and weight) compensates only 0.5gr. even if setted at its highest position. Poor materials imho.
I'd like to put on A Micro Seiki MA-202 which has the same size. Moreover it looks similar but it's better crafted. I've found a used unit on the net but it is the "L" version: 237mm. pivot/spindle and 252mm. effective lenght. While the best choice would be the standard one: 222/237mm.. Do you think it would be possible to arrange the longer version for proper overhang without milling the original mounting hole on the top of the plinth? After all we are talking about 15mm. difference. Do you think I could compensate the overhang only adjusting the headshell? Thanks.
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use of a different arm...
releone71,
I'd look at any tonearm in any length, particularly longer ones. And given the fact that the Taya is basically a completely enclosed direct drive motor/spindle unit (by that I mean it appears as the Technics SP10/15/25 family) removing the existing arm and installing another one would be very simple. I'll sketch install template and post later.
releone71,
I'd look at any tonearm in any length, particularly longer ones. And given the fact that the Taya is basically a completely enclosed direct drive motor/spindle unit (by that I mean it appears as the Technics SP10/15/25 family) removing the existing arm and installing another one would be very simple. I'll sketch install template and post later.
Much appreciated!
I've finally opted for that MA-202 "L" and arranged the shipment a few minutes ago. As you can see from the pictures, there is enough free surface on the top of the plinth to move the mounting hole. I think the TT could hold even a 12 inch arm.
What do you suggest to reattach the cut cables from the base of the arm to the RCAs in the plinth? Would it be good a four pole DIN connector? Or is it better to simply solder new cables? In this case which kind of cable do I have to use? Thanks.
That is a fake vinyl made woodgrain, simulating rosewood veneer. Infact, I'm thinking also to replace it with a natural one. I've spotted a sheet of gorgeous macassar ebony that would be great to put on!
Ebano Makassar Impiallacciatura piallacci SG250261 su eBay.it Altro per bricolage, Bricolage e fai da te, Casa, Arredamento e Bricolage
the arm has to be the same...
LAJ: No!
222/237 ≠ 237/252.
releone71: The MS 202L must be mounted at 237 MM from the spindle (9.33"), and the effective length is 252 mm (9.92").
I would hog out the existing spot in the plinth the additional 15mm (measured radially from the spindle to the far side of the existing opening +15mm). Once the angle is established it should be easy to re-drill the plinth to accept the new arm. The I'd do a quick alignment. Once that is established, then proceed with a new plinth.
The MA202 has O/H= 15mm, O/S=21.0°, so no, "any tonearm can be put where the original Taya is". Although unsure of the Taya's O/S, the difference in length is enough to nix that statement.
Null points are 61.7mm/119.0
As far as new cabling goes, you might just take the DIN end off of the base of the tonearm existing Taya tonearm, and solder to that to get you going. I use Kynar silver tined solid core wire-wrap wire. It is very good and very inexpensive. Or, perhaps the new tonearm may come with one DIN plug to Male RCAs. Then just plug into the phono stage or integrated or preamp that you are using., then no worries.
The new plinth would be spectacular, and probably heavy. The lumber you posted a link to will be to small. A similar sized board as the original plinth will be required, so you may have to glue them up to get the correct size. You could make one up with some existing hardwood product (like large sized cutting boards as an example), and veneer it it the ebony. I'd measure the existing plinth, but many are 360mm (or larger) X's 440mm (or larger).
Just a note: many direct drive turntables do well in stone plinths (eg: the Technics offerings could be had with an Obsidian base from the factory). Many folks with idler drive turntables have had great results with Slate. Kenada-san has made very good hardwood based plinths for many turntables as well.
In the end I think you will end up with a pretty nice turntable. It should look beautiful, and the Taya (if working properly) should be a solid performer. The Micro-Seiki arm should be very good as well. Many folks still covet them.
for plinth ideas you might look here.
LAJ: No!
222/237 ≠ 237/252.
releone71: The MS 202L must be mounted at 237 MM from the spindle (9.33"), and the effective length is 252 mm (9.92").
I would hog out the existing spot in the plinth the additional 15mm (measured radially from the spindle to the far side of the existing opening +15mm). Once the angle is established it should be easy to re-drill the plinth to accept the new arm. The I'd do a quick alignment. Once that is established, then proceed with a new plinth.
The MA202 has O/H= 15mm, O/S=21.0°, so no, "any tonearm can be put where the original Taya is". Although unsure of the Taya's O/S, the difference in length is enough to nix that statement.
Null points are 61.7mm/119.0
As far as new cabling goes, you might just take the DIN end off of the base of the tonearm existing Taya tonearm, and solder to that to get you going. I use Kynar silver tined solid core wire-wrap wire. It is very good and very inexpensive. Or, perhaps the new tonearm may come with one DIN plug to Male RCAs. Then just plug into the phono stage or integrated or preamp that you are using., then no worries.
The new plinth would be spectacular, and probably heavy. The lumber you posted a link to will be to small. A similar sized board as the original plinth will be required, so you may have to glue them up to get the correct size. You could make one up with some existing hardwood product (like large sized cutting boards as an example), and veneer it it the ebony. I'd measure the existing plinth, but many are 360mm (or larger) X's 440mm (or larger).
Just a note: many direct drive turntables do well in stone plinths (eg: the Technics offerings could be had with an Obsidian base from the factory). Many folks with idler drive turntables have had great results with Slate. Kenada-san has made very good hardwood based plinths for many turntables as well.
In the end I think you will end up with a pretty nice turntable. It should look beautiful, and the Taya (if working properly) should be a solid performer. The Micro-Seiki arm should be very good as well. Many folks still covet them.
for plinth ideas you might look here.
Ok, then I will have to move the hole 15mm. sideways filling the original hole with a circular piece of wood glued in and redrilling a new hole.
Think I will go with a DIN plug for practical reasons. Where can I find that Kynar wire? Can you suggest a link?
There's must be a misunderstanding. That is not an ebony lumber. It's a sheet made for veneering poor wood. I don't want to substitute the intire plinth, which is decently made, better than in other titled brands. I'm only planning to strip the fake veneer off the plinth and glue in a real one. I found yesterday a spectacular rosewood veneer from that same dealer and took it
Designholz.com
That sheet is wide enough to obtain the top of the plinth in a unique piece. The veneer in excess will be used by my brother for his luthier works.
On the other side I could consider to rebuild the bottom panel with an heavier one. Marble? Basaltic stone? I live in an area were artisans work the basaltic stone from Mount Etna's lava.
rebuild the plinth...
releone71
Please rebuild the plinth in better wood if you are going to the expense of purchasing such beautiful veneer.
Regarding stone, Technics used an Obsidian (volcanic glass) with their SP10/12/25 series. Slate is apparently very good as used by some for expensive plinths. Not absolutely sure of the sonic properties of either marble or granite, etc.
here's a link to Ebay
RadioShack in the US has it listed as "wire wrap wire". Not sure what a European equivalent would be.
releone71
Please rebuild the plinth in better wood if you are going to the expense of purchasing such beautiful veneer.
Regarding stone, Technics used an Obsidian (volcanic glass) with their SP10/12/25 series. Slate is apparently very good as used by some for expensive plinths. Not absolutely sure of the sonic properties of either marble or granite, etc.
here's a link to Ebay
RadioShack in the US has it listed as "wire wrap wire". Not sure what a European equivalent would be.
Check on Vinyl Engine | The Home of the Turntable - you must be a member to access the library. (Quick and simple)
And Nanook is right about the plinth materials. In the long run you will be much happier with a solidly made plinth along the lines of what he is suggesting.
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