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Old 6th March 2011, 10:51 PM   #1
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Default help finding a new tonearm

I've recently found in a local store an old Taya DP-500 turntable for a few bucks. The motor runs flawlessly, the platter is quiet and the plinth is made of thick plywood veneered in rosewood. The weak part of the assembly is the cheap tonearm which moreover has some broken part. I would like to put on a new and better tonearm so I'm here to ask your help. The thickness of the plinth is about 2.5 inches and that of the platter about 1.00 inch. The original arm is an "s" shaped 9" one with adjustable VTA and circular base plate. Will you be so kind as to suggest me a vintage or modern tonearm compatible with those specifications? Thanks.
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Old 8th March 2011, 06:59 PM   #2
Nanook is offline Nanook  Canada
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releone,

does it look like this?

What model (need that first). You can do a measurement of the tonearm. What is broken on the tonearm?
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Old 9th March 2011, 02:23 PM   #3
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Thanks for your reply. No, that one must be a CP-300. Nice tonearm!!

The DP-500 is this one:

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

The plastic parts are broken: armrest and armlifter. Moreover the whole assembly gives a nasty sense of unreliability, even if I checked and tightened every single screw in the can. Maybe it suffered some hit or improper use during its service and the bias setting (line and weight) compensates only 0.5gr. even if setted at its highest position. Poor materials imho.

I'd like to put on A Micro Seiki MA-202 which has the same size. Moreover it looks similar but it's better crafted. I've found a used unit on the net but it is the "L" version: 237mm. pivot/spindle and 252mm. effective lenght. While the best choice would be the standard one: 222/237mm.. Do you think it would be possible to arrange the longer version for proper overhang without milling the original mounting hole on the top of the plinth? After all we are talking about 15mm. difference. Do you think I could compensate the overhang only adjusting the headshell? Thanks.

Last edited by releone71; 9th March 2011 at 02:32 PM.
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Old 9th March 2011, 05:21 PM   #4
Nanook is offline Nanook  Canada
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Default use of a different arm...

releone71,

I'd look at any tonearm in any length, particularly longer ones. And given the fact that the Taya is basically a completely enclosed direct drive motor/spindle unit (by that I mean it appears as the Technics SP10/15/25 family) removing the existing arm and installing another one would be very simple. I'll sketch install template and post later.
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Old 9th March 2011, 05:40 PM   #5
LAJ is offline LAJ  United States
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There are basically two kinds of turntables a 12 inch and 16 inch. So any tonearm from a 12 inch turntable should work. (The pivot point has to be the same.)
Is that a real wood base or simulated woodgrain on plastic?
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Old 9th March 2011, 05:57 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nanook View Post
releone71,

I'd look at any tonearm in any length, particularly longer ones. And given the fact that the Taya is basically a completely enclosed direct drive motor/spindle unit (by that I mean it appears as the Technics SP10/15/25 family) removing the existing arm and installing another one would be very simple. I'll sketch install template and post later.
Much appreciated!

I've finally opted for that MA-202 "L" and arranged the shipment a few minutes ago. As you can see from the pictures, there is enough free surface on the top of the plinth to move the mounting hole. I think the TT could hold even a 12 inch arm.

What do you suggest to reattach the cut cables from the base of the arm to the RCAs in the plinth? Would it be good a four pole DIN connector? Or is it better to simply solder new cables? In this case which kind of cable do I have to use? Thanks.
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Old 9th March 2011, 06:05 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LAJ View Post
Is that a real wood base or simulated woodgrain on plastic?
That is a fake vinyl made woodgrain, simulating rosewood veneer. Infact, I'm thinking also to replace it with a natural one. I've spotted a sheet of gorgeous macassar ebony that would be great to put on!

Ebano Makassar Impiallacciatura piallacci SG250261 su eBay.it Altro per bricolage, Bricolage e fai da te, Casa, Arredamento e Bricolage
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Old 9th March 2011, 09:55 PM   #8
Nanook is offline Nanook  Canada
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Default the arm has to be the same...

LAJ: No!

222/237 ≠ 237/252.

releone71: The MS 202L must be mounted at 237 MM from the spindle (9.33"), and the effective length is 252 mm (9.92").

I would hog out the existing spot in the plinth the additional 15mm (measured radially from the spindle to the far side of the existing opening +15mm). Once the angle is established it should be easy to re-drill the plinth to accept the new arm. The I'd do a quick alignment. Once that is established, then proceed with a new plinth.

The MA202 has O/H= 15mm, O/S=21.0, so no, "any tonearm can be put where the original Taya is". Although unsure of the Taya's O/S, the difference in length is enough to nix that statement.

Null points are 61.7mm/119.0

As far as new cabling goes, you might just take the DIN end off of the base of the tonearm existing Taya tonearm, and solder to that to get you going. I use Kynar silver tined solid core wire-wrap wire. It is very good and very inexpensive. Or, perhaps the new tonearm may come with one DIN plug to Male RCAs. Then just plug into the phono stage or integrated or preamp that you are using., then no worries.

The new plinth would be spectacular, and probably heavy. The lumber you posted a link to will be to small. A similar sized board as the original plinth will be required, so you may have to glue them up to get the correct size. You could make one up with some existing hardwood product (like large sized cutting boards as an example), and veneer it it the ebony. I'd measure the existing plinth, but many are 360mm (or larger) X's 440mm (or larger).

Just a note: many direct drive turntables do well in stone plinths (eg: the Technics offerings could be had with an Obsidian base from the factory). Many folks with idler drive turntables have had great results with Slate. Kenada-san has made very good hardwood based plinths for many turntables as well.

In the end I think you will end up with a pretty nice turntable. It should look beautiful, and the Taya (if working properly) should be a solid performer. The Micro-Seiki arm should be very good as well. Many folks still covet them.

for plinth ideas you might look here.
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Old 10th March 2011, 09:22 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nanook View Post
LAJ: No!

222/237 ≠ 237/252.

releone71: The MS 202L must be mounted at 237 MM from the spindle (9.33"), and the effective length is 252 mm (9.92").

I would hog out the existing spot in the plinth the additional 15mm (measured radially from the spindle to the far side of the existing opening +15mm). Once the angle is established it should be easy to re-drill the plinth to accept the new arm. The I'd do a quick alignment. Once that is established, then proceed with a new plinth.

The MA202 has O/H= 15mm, O/S=21.0, so no, "any tonearm can be put where the original Taya is". Although unsure of the Taya's O/S, the difference in length is enough to nix that statement.

Null points are 61.7mm/119.0
Ok, then I will have to move the hole 15mm. sideways filling the original hole with a circular piece of wood glued in and redrilling a new hole.

Quote:
As far as new cabling goes, you might just take the DIN end off of the base of the tonearm existing Taya tonearm, and solder to that to get you going. I use Kynar silver tined solid core wire-wrap wire. It is very good and very inexpensive. Or, perhaps the new tonearm may come with one DIN plug to Male RCAs. Then just plug into the phono stage or integrated or preamp that you are using., then no worries.
Think I will go with a DIN plug for practical reasons. Where can I find that Kynar wire? Can you suggest a link?

Quote:
The new plinth would be spectacular, and probably heavy. The lumber you posted a link to will be to small. A similar sized board as the original plinth will be required, so you may have to glue them up to get the correct size. You could make one up with some existing hardwood product (like large sized cutting boards as an example), and veneer it it the ebony. I'd measure the existing plinth, but many are 360mm (or larger) X's 440mm (or larger).

Just a note: many direct drive turntables do well in stone plinths (eg: the Technics offerings could be had with an Obsidian base from the factory). Many folks with idler drive turntables have had great results with Slate. Kenada-san has made very good hardwood based plinths for many turntables as well.
There's must be a misunderstanding. That is not an ebony lumber. It's a sheet made for veneering poor wood. I don't want to substitute the intire plinth, which is decently made, better than in other titled brands. I'm only planning to strip the fake veneer off the plinth and glue in a real one. I found yesterday a spectacular rosewood veneer from that same dealer and took it

Designholz.com

That sheet is wide enough to obtain the top of the plinth in a unique piece. The veneer in excess will be used by my brother for his luthier works.

On the other side I could consider to rebuild the bottom panel with an heavier one. Marble? Basaltic stone? I live in an area were artisans work the basaltic stone from Mount Etna's lava.
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Old 10th March 2011, 05:10 PM   #10
Nanook is offline Nanook  Canada
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Default rebuild the plinth...

releone71

Please rebuild the plinth in better wood if you are going to the expense of purchasing such beautiful veneer.

Regarding stone, Technics used an Obsidian (volcanic glass) with their SP10/12/25 series. Slate is apparently very good as used by some for expensive plinths. Not absolutely sure of the sonic properties of either marble or granite, etc.

here's a link to Ebay

RadioShack in the US has it listed as "wire wrap wire". Not sure what a European equivalent would be.
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