I'm looking for a source for very inexpensive turntable parts. My plan is to build a all-in-one turntable system with built in amp and speakers to rival the sound quality (excuse my language here I don't like the "B" word either) of a Bose Wave radio or the like. I would like to build and sell the units in the nieghborhood of $500. So I'm not looking for top quality stuff her just the motors and such to make it work.
Well I was kinda looking for a consistant source for the motors and gears and what not. I've never built a TT before so I don't know what all is necesary but I want to find a source where I can continue to get the same parts. Basically I need all the stuff I couldn't build myself without doing a lot of studying up. Maybe like a wholesaler.
You might want to try a few thrift stores or yard sales first. You could buy a few and take them apart and see what all is involved.
I remember all the parts for a kit being sold some years ago. But I haven't seen it in a long time.
No gears involved with a straight manual turntable. Most budget turntables use AC synchronous motors, which are easy enough to source. I probably have two or three of that type of motor in my parts bin. I salvaged a nice AC motor from a trashed BSR turntable and a beautiful Hall Effect motor from a Pioneer turntable.
Last edited:
Well I have about 10 turntables in various states of disrepair I suppose I should start looking at them. So basically your saying I just need a motor and the rest is all pretty DIY friendly? I wish I just had a simple breakdown diagram to look at and make calculations and measurements from. I guess I just need to do more research.
Thanks everyone
Thanks everyone
Well, not absolutely DIY friendly. But if you are handy with making or fixing things then you can probably handle it.
There are various commercial spindle and bearing parts available. It just depends on how much you want to spend on those types of parts and I'm talking about the really high end stuff.
If you have access to machine tools such as a lathe, you could easily make your own platter(s) from aluminum or acrylic or have someone make them for you. Platter rotation is easy math, once you know diameters and motor speed.
Well like I said I'm trying to make this cheap, so I'm thinking MDF platters and the cheapest parts I can get. Once I make some that work and sell I might start working on better quality stuff. My parents have this turntable that my aunt gave them in a very nice looking oak box but the sound is so bad I have to cover my ears. I thought if people will pay $100 for something that horrible sounding why not make a similar product with decent sound and sell it in the $500 range.
It's difficult to see where the market is for low priced Bose-like integrated systems with turntables. The Bose market is all about simple and easy low-fi sound at a semi-premium price (sounds weird when you spell it out). Turntables and vinyl are by their nature fussy and needing care and feeding - clean the record, clean the stylus, 15 minutes of music & time to flip the platter and do it all again. Vinyl afficionados tend to focus on vinyl for its sonic benefits and spend on the rest of their systems accordingly. Not sure there's any there...there.
There is trust me. Think of all of the older people with vast record colections that are not audiophiles. They want to listen to this stuff without tweeking and not want ear piercing distortion. Seriously $500 is not a premium price and I was being a bit facisious when I said Bove wave quality but lets be honest the Wave doesn't sound bad. As far as sound quality goes I intend to use small drivers in rear or compound horn loaded enclosuers with bass extention to between 50hz and 100hz. %0hz being a tall floor standing unit, and the typically sized suitcase turn table would probably hit 80-100hz. The piece my parents have sounds worse than a $15 clock radio and sells for $100 so the market is there. I was thinking of actually selling them at record stores. This is not an audiophile product and I think if you actually look at the vinyl market there are about 10X as many people getting into it for the sake of nastalgia than for the sonic benifits. Anyway not trying to start a debate just looking for a sorce. You maybe right there may be no market for it at all but I'm going to try it and it will be fun. Any suggestions as to where to buy these motors?
the only way to go is ...
something like this.
The other may be to get hold of old Califone turntable/speaker/amp setups and start restoring them. This would be possible so as to end up with something that could be a commercially viable product. Perhaps doing regular maintenance, recovering them if fabric (with new Fender "tweed" or similar). Old Califones are readily out there. I found this site, doing a quick search.
Califone currently has only one model available , the 1005. And the new price is under $300.
The nice thing about the Califone is that you could spend a little customizing them (if starting with new), with the end result being visually stunning. Tweaking the record player would be the next step.
I've always been curious how they are built, and what's inside of them.
If doing a scratch build, please use no MDF. It "sucks the life out of" anything it touches, unless prepared in a very specific way. Spend some $$ on BB ply
something like this.
The other may be to get hold of old Califone turntable/speaker/amp setups and start restoring them. This would be possible so as to end up with something that could be a commercially viable product. Perhaps doing regular maintenance, recovering them if fabric (with new Fender "tweed" or similar). Old Califones are readily out there. I found this site, doing a quick search.
Califone currently has only one model available , the 1005. And the new price is under $300.
The nice thing about the Califone is that you could spend a little customizing them (if starting with new), with the end result being visually stunning. Tweaking the record player would be the next step.
I've always been curious how they are built, and what's inside of them.
If doing a scratch build, please use no MDF. It "sucks the life out of" anything it touches, unless prepared in a very specific way. Spend some $$ on BB ply
Last edited:
I'm quite content to use MDF. I don't mind it if it's as dead. I prefer "lifeless" materials, especially when building loudspeakers. I can cut and saw and fill and sand and paint MDF to perfection.
I would have liked to of built a turntable from acrylic, but it's expensive and I'm not equipped for that type of milling and fabrication.
MDF...
chuffs (air can pass through it and it is measurable). Most contain formaldehyde. If suitably finished (inside and out), then OK. By the time you're done doing that any materials cost saving is shot.
And I don't mean "dead" to be a good thing. All sorts of reasons not to use MDF, do as you please.
To make a go of this, you will need to keep your costing at no more than 20%. Most manufacturing guidelines suggest 5% if marketed in a traditional manner.
chuffs (air can pass through it and it is measurable). Most contain formaldehyde. If suitably finished (inside and out), then OK. By the time you're done doing that any materials cost saving is shot.
And I don't mean "dead" to be a good thing. All sorts of reasons not to use MDF, do as you please.
To make a go of this, you will need to keep your costing at no more than 20%. Most manufacturing guidelines suggest 5% if marketed in a traditional manner.
Well, the price of everything has been going up. Try and get a nice piece of clear hardwood and see how much it costs you! Even MDF has shot up in price, but it is still relatively inexpensive compared to real wood.
I like the working properties of MDF, easy to work with, fabricate.
Formaldehyde is the least of my worries. Practically everything I use is toxic to some extent, all the epoxies, paints and thinners.
I like the working properties of MDF, easy to work with, fabricate.
Formaldehyde is the least of my worries. Practically everything I use is toxic to some extent, all the epoxies, paints and thinners.
Some people are very opinionated when it comes to building materials. For some, MDF isn't "audiophile" enough. That is they prefer the sound and/or looks of real wood.
Just google up AC synchronous motors or hysteresis synchronous motors.
Your best bet would be to locate a surplus source/store that way they'll only cost you a few bucks each.
Hurst - Permanent Magnet AC Synchronous Motor Family
115 VAC MOTOR, 250/300 RPM, USED | AllElectronics.com
Firstly, let me see if I can help:
The chassis holding the platter-and-tonearm should of course be separate and mechanically/acoustically isolated from the chassis that holds the woofers and horns, else your volume will be too limited before feedback. Even then, feedback could still be a problem at higher volume. An all-in-one design is "interesting" in this way.
A belt-drive platter is pretty simple, you just need to get the motor shaft diameter correct for the diameter of the platter (or the smaller "underplatter" as many belt-drives use so that the belt is not exposed to curious hands). Belts are no doubt available as an industrial item, surely much cheaper than the usual $15 commonly charged online for turntable replacement. For cheaper and lower weight, I'd suggest a small DC motor with speed feedback - this can be held to a close speed tolerance electronically and (especially with the power supply being shared by the amplifier) be as cheap as a 120V syncrhonous motor, AND switch between 33 1/3 and 45RPM electronically rather than mechanically. Even without feedback, a small-DC-motor beltdrive TT may be good enough as far as speed accuracy, wow and flutter specs.
For the platter bearing, not sure what to suggest, just try a few things. Dual used a regular ball-bearing thrust bearing for the 1229 and similar vintage units, which is surely less than ideal as far as rumble, but then most of the rumble from those were from the idler wheel drive anyway.
Amplifier: the usual chip amp (maybe even Class D). Probably even use a (I wouldn't normally suggest this, but this product is NOT hifi!) switching PS (keep most parts small and light, so you can use larger/heavier drivers and more MDF to have a larger impact on better sound). Phono pre will have to be carefully isolated from the switching PS, but good grounding and some linear regulators off the main power rails should be enough. I suppose this will have volume bass and treble controls.
IMHO this thing should have, if not semiauto operation (the tonearm returned at end of play), at least tonearm lift at end of play. Designing and making an automatic turntable, or at least tonearm return, could get complicated. This almost becomes a rant. People will expect fully auto, just like all the cheap Garrard 4-speed rim-drive turntables everyone used to play records on. It would be interesting if such a turntable were mass-produced today, it would be a lot easier to have a drop-in TT than roll your own.
Speakers for a smallish cabinet are an interesting problem. I wouldn't follow the Bose design too closely, else they might sue, even if you only make and sell 10 per year.
For mechanical parts (with better long-term availability than surplus sites), check out these industrial suppliers:
http://www.mcmaster.com/
http://www.grainger.com/
http://www.mscdirect.com/
The rant part:
Like others I'm not convinced there's a market, as most will buy the $100 device and then say "Yeah, that's why everyone switched to CD's back in the '80's, records DO sound bad."
Those that buy for $500 might not be interested in cleaning LP's or reading your insert that says how it must be done for best results, bla bla bla, they paid all that money, they should be able to put a record on and have it play just as they did way back when. As a practical suggestion in this area, you might want to include a 'dust bug' or something similarly cheap and almost-automatic to help at least get the surface dust off.
Last edited:
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.