JVC QL-7 Counterweight Rubber Bushing - diyAudio
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Old 10th January 2011, 12:01 PM   #1
john65b is offline john65b  United States
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Default JVC QL-7 Counterweight Rubber Bushing

Hey all,

First time posting here on TT forum, so forgive me if I don't get the lingo correct.

Had a pile of Albums from years back and wanted a descent TT...Had a B&O TX-2 with an MMC3 cartridge and was happy.

I saw a posting for a JVC QL-7 and remembered a friend having one years ago and I always loved its look and how it sounded, so I bought it.

After getting it home I realized that the counterweight was drooping and a little pile of rubber powder under that bushing. I looked at the bushing and the bottom side was shallower than top, so I tried to roll the bushing so the shallow part was on top. That helped a little, but still dropping.

I can't see how to remove/replace the bushing, or know where to get a new one...any help?

I will post pics later. Still a beautiful TT!
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Old 11th January 2011, 02:25 AM   #2
john65b is offline john65b  United States
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Well that was really a non event...I took apart the counterweight and pulled what was left of the bushing and went to Menards. Matched and bought a rubber faucet washer that was flat on one side and tapered on the other (size "0" - 17/32" OD) and put it all back together. Counterweight now straight and perfect again.

Sometimes I really impress myself. Too bad the wife thinks I am a total dork-wad.
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Old 16th December 2011, 11:21 PM   #3
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John, the bushing in my tonearm hasn't deteriorated completely - I still would like to do the repair and return it to horizontal.

Took the counterweight off and it isn't obvious how to replace the grommet without cutting away at the old one and splicing the new one in place. I have read that there is a pin that supports the counterweight and the bushing is just for isolation.

Could you please elaborate on the repair.

Thanks!
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Old 17th December 2011, 12:01 AM   #4
john65b is offline john65b  United States
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OK, I am doing this from memory... completely remove the counterweight from the arm. The arm side threaded shaft will turn, so you have to pull and turn off the Counter Weight, or just hold the shaft with pair of pliers to keep the shaft from rotating. Once counter weight is off, the remaining portion of the rubber bushing can be removed. An "0" sized water valve washer from Menards (the one that has one side like a funnel) should be inserted over the shaft (you may have to drill out the center a bit to make a nice fit. The funnel side should face toward the arm. Rethread the counterweight back onto shaft (pulling and turning, or hold the shft with pliers to keep shaft still). The counter weight should be snug, but not to tight. You just want to keep the counterweight from sagging...you may have a little issue getting the arm to balance at zero as the counterweight may "hang out" further than the original...

Hope this helps...

EDIT - just reread your post - looks like you already have the counter weight off...juts continue to pick away at the old bushing to remove it. You may need an x-acto knife to remove it completely...then just slide new one on...
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Last edited by john65b; 17th December 2011 at 12:03 AM.
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Old 17th December 2011, 01:24 AM   #5
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Replacing the bushing/ grommet is where I am lost. I haven't removed the old one yet - wanted to confirm the process first. I picked up the "0" beveled and the flat style washers and the flat is an almost exact thickness and OD. Since it is the same outside diameter how do you get it into place without splicing/ cutting it to fit over arm? The arm doesn't appear to disassemble.
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Old 18th December 2011, 02:46 PM   #6
john65b is offline john65b  United States
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Hey, no problem. The arm does disassemble from the counterweight - there is a threaded shaft connecting the arm to the counterweight. They should thread off - like I said, the shaft will rotate with the counterweight freely in the arm, and on my unit, the existing busing was 95% gone, leaving a obvious, nasty droop of the counterweight. I could see the threaded shaft rotate freely with the CW. To disassemble the arm from counterweight, I pulled the counterweight away from the arm and un-threaded the counterweight.

Once the existing bushing is removed, you will see the shaft inside.

You do not need to splice the new bushing, as the arm and counterweight will come apart.

I apologize as I am remembering this from memory...
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Old 18th December 2011, 02:48 PM   #7
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OK...Hold on...I found a video I made for the buyer when I wanted to make sure I wasn't going to get nailed for shipping damage (shipped and arrived fine, BTW)...download the following vid. You will see the arm counterweight completely off the arm. Have you done this yet?

http://suburbansurvey.no-ip.org/clip0016.avi
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Last edited by john65b; 18th December 2011 at 02:51 PM.
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Old 18th December 2011, 02:51 PM   #8
john65b is offline john65b  United States
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Once counterweight is completely off (like in vid), you will find a tiny threaded pin holding the counterweight shaft onto the arm shaft. Remove threaded pin and the CW shaft should rotate off the arm shaft...

Again, from bad memory...I don't know why I have been unsuscribed to my own thread...I will resubscribe...
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Last edited by john65b; 18th December 2011 at 02:54 PM.
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Old 19th December 2011, 12:30 AM   #9
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Thanks for your response!

I have the counterweight off and the shaft doesn't seem to turn easily in either direction. I am hesitant to pick out the old bushing since the table is my main unit. I feel a small hole under the arm near the pivot point though. Will have to explore this more.

You sold your table - I assume you upgraded?

Again, I appreciate the help.
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Old 19th December 2011, 01:27 AM   #10
john65b is offline john65b  United States
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The hole under the arm is a little threaded stud that has an allen wrench hole. Loosen it and you will be able to remove the CW shaft.

Yes I sold it for a Denon 62L....don't know if it really was a move up tho...I miss that TT
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