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Old 8th December 2010, 07:46 PM   #51
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Nanook,
Thanks for the link. It looks interesting and easy enough to build, but I'm wondering if the micro and display are still available (2006 design). I also have no way to program the micro (no software or hardware). Anyone out there have the ability to program Microchip parts (or the parts from the AudioXpress design)? Also I would like see if I can get a reprint of the AudioXpress article (but wil have the same programming problem)?
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Old 10th December 2010, 05:39 PM   #52
Greg M is offline Greg M  United States
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I have gotten the new bearings installed and it runs smoothly now. I think this motor has other issues though.
It gets too hot to touch!
I ran it all day a couple of days and it runs fine it just gets really hot.
I have tried both 3uF caps I had with the same results.
Does this indicate a problem in the windings?
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Old 11th December 2010, 07:47 AM   #53
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Quote:
Straight Tracker: "it has become apparent that a simple way to do that would be to use a motor from a used direct drive turntable as has been suggested by many others. But instead of driving from a direct drive turntable to a DIY turntable with a belt, why don't you take the extra step of removing the motor from the direct drive turntable and make a free standing housing for it in the Micro Seiki style? A number of years ago I obtained two direct drive motors from Matsushita as samples to experiment with. but I never got around to that.Yesterday I looked at the motors and found that the idea with the bail is feasable. This approach would take up half the space and would look pleasing to the eye. What do you think?"
I have made similar approach a year ago by taking two identical motor and platters from two Pioneer PL-L1000 direct-drive turntables and belt-driving each other. I used VHS tape as the belt. I even used an idler wheel to replace the tape/belt as interface and got that "idler sound" tonal characteristic - lush and robust. This approach allows me to try three drive systems, direct-drive, belt-drive, and idler-drive. The Pioneer motor is their Stable Hanging Rotor (SHR) design, inverted bearing on a DD motor and the magnet housing, rotor, acting as the subplatter and I believe it can be used as a pulley driving the other rotor. It's fun using two turntables but they do take up a lot of space.

Click the image to open in full size.

.
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Old 11th December 2010, 07:40 PM   #54
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Default Hello Direct Driver,

That looks very interesting. When I'm finished with my tone arm, I may try my hand at building a turn table like that.

Sincerely,

Ralf
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Old 12th December 2010, 05:27 PM   #55
Nanook is offline Nanook  Canada
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Default cygnus...ideas for a belt...

sorry for the "late idea. Try mylar tape or typical cassette tape. I have used an upholster's nylon thread as a drive belt to good effect. It is very tough, yet pliable.

Also you can use different sized pulleys to get the speed correct, as long as there is some speed adjustment available already.

directdriver:looks very good, but the need for 2 identical decks may limit some.
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Old 12th December 2010, 05:54 PM   #56
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Quote:
Nanook: looks very good, but the need for 2 identical decks may limit some.
I just happened to have two identical ones but I have also used several turntables with speed adjustment such as the PL-570. Basically, any turntable with flat rim platter and speed adjustment will work. Models to recommend are Technics SL-M3, JVC QL-F6, Pioneer PL-570 & PL-550, etc... Or you can always add a plate on top of another turntable acting as a pulley, in this case the ubiquitous Technics SL-1200Mk2 will work great as a turntable "motor-pod." Get one at second hand price and it will beat most fancy motor-pods costing an arm and a leg. And it will make you pay attention to motor quality and realize all this attention to fancy shiny blig bling thick platters is misguided. Get the source of rotation, the motor, right and with quality, the sound will benefit. The two turntable approach saves me the trouble and money to find a high speed motor with proper speed control electronics - too much hassle for me. I am quite satisfied with the result.

In this picture, I put a Technics SL-1400Mk2 with a broken tonearm to goo use. I added flat rim platter, a salvaged part, on top of the Technics platter acting as a pulley. You can even add an idler wheel in between the two turntables. The passive platter is from an Empire 208 belt-drive turntable.
Click the image to open in full size.

.

Last edited by directdriver; 12th December 2010 at 05:56 PM.
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Old 12th December 2010, 06:29 PM   #57
benb is offline benb  United States
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I recall that earlier thread featuring the VHS tape/belt drives.

I've got a Dual 1229 I've used for much of the last 15 years, and a 1219 sitting around - these both have tall, exposed, perfectly vertical platter sides just waiting for this to be done. I've heard that the ball-bearing based thrust bearing as used in Duals is less than ideal for a TT, but this has got to be big improvement over that subtle earthquake-in-the-background sound of idler wheel drive. Also, you're a proponent of DD TT's for doing the driving, I wonder how much vibration of a rim drive would be transmitted by the tape.

Is there some guide used to keep the tape/belt aligned on the platters? I don't see it offhand. It looks like it would fall off or ride up-and-off after a short time of running.
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Old 12th December 2010, 07:08 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benb View Post
I wonder how much vibration of a rim drive would be transmitted by the tape.
In order to stop vibrations in the direction of the moving tape in professional studio tape recorders, a device called a flutter or scrape filter was employed. It cosisted of a small flywheel in contact with the tape and driven by the same.
I have one from a Scully machine and I'll post a picture if anyone wants to see one.

Sincerely,

Ralf
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Old 12th December 2010, 07:14 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by directdriver View Post
.You can even add an idler wheel in between the two turntables.
If you wanted to use an idler. The perfect place for it would be the empty tone arm socket.

Sincerely,

Ralf
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Old 24th December 2010, 02:05 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benb View Post
I wonder how much vibration of a rim drive would be transmitted by the tape.
VHS tape is not compliant and therefore not particularly forgiving in this respect. Better drive with a good source. From an engineering perspective I don't see the advantage of this setup. Perhaps someone could enlighten me.

Quote:
Is there some guide used to keep the tape/belt aligned on the platters? I don't see it offhand. It looks like it would fall off or ride up-and-off after a short time of running.
With flat belt drives it is usual practice to put a slight crown on the pulleys to keep the belt in place. It will tend to climb to the top of the crown. This is how they did it in the good old days of flat leather drive belts for power transmission.
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