I haven’t found any need to talc the new belt. So far so good. Now I’m thinking about ordering the Hanze spring kit for mounting the motor. It’s 39 Euros! Kevin, do you still recommend replacing the rubber grommets?
I saw an impressive video showing a dramatic reduction in noise level with the springs on the Hanze site.
I saw an impressive video showing a dramatic reduction in noise level with the springs on the Hanze site.
Last edited:
If you don't have a stethoscope often a long srew driver to the back of the ear works ( or front ). A slotted screw near the thing of interest can be a reference point. Try it with PU arms at the base. It can be surprising how good the arm sounds via speakers despite what the screwdriver tells you. Top class arms often have very nice screwdriver sound. A Dual CS505 surprised me. The arm that looks so good fails this test. This might say why although good the CS505 is not great. It's too easy to say what you see in this game. Works for cars also.
Bent chassis under armboard.
The part of the chassis that supports the armboard is bent. Has anybody here encountered this? Can i bend it back? I am beginning to think that Thorens changed the chassis slightly because this was a problem with the early td124.
I was thinking of clamping the TT down to a very flat surface and then drawing the bent part back down with bolts and padded hardwood. Adjusting the bolts slowly. Is this a crazy idea?
m
The part of the chassis that supports the armboard is bent. Has anybody here encountered this? Can i bend it back? I am beginning to think that Thorens changed the chassis slightly because this was a problem with the early td124.
I was thinking of clamping the TT down to a very flat surface and then drawing the bent part back down with bolts and padded hardwood. Adjusting the bolts slowly. Is this a crazy idea?
m
2078 chassis
It is not uncommon to see early models bent in the viscinity of the armboard support. There was a revision which adds some structural reinforcements to this area to prevent such damage. A weakness of the early design, which the factory corrected.
See above link to one of the bent chassis that I corrected. It is not difficult but must be approached with care. With a completely disassembled chassis make use of flat surfaces to press the chassis flat again. Take care not to make it worse, or -- worse even, crack the chassis in this process.
-Steve
That sounds like the appropriate first try. It likely helps to warm up the chassis with a heat gun if you have one. Don't get it hot enough to affect the paint, you just want the metal from being cold. Room temp is likely enough if you're in the house. A bit warmer will help.
If this proves not to be enough you can try placing a long round steel rod directly under the pivot point and very gingerly clamp down on the extremeties in very small increments. Make sure you don't go too far.
The rod should be longer than the chassis width to be certain that the bend is uniformly made.
Caution.
Fwiw I've had to do this on two of the early chassis I've worked on. The aluminum chassis is soft and bends easily. Keep forces low and your eyes on the prize, so to speak.
-Steve
Thanks kevinkr and user510. I think I will keep clamping pressure across the armboard portion right up to the pivot point. That will eliminate any chance of leverage stressing the chassis. The worst part is approx. 3/16ths out of level but I think that slow clamping pressure over time will do it. I will post an update once I make the attempt.
Thanks for the great thread. It seems you've left no stone unturned. I am rebuilding my E-50 motor and notice the coils are quite loose in their housing. Does anyone know about shimming the coils so they are held tightly in the case? If so, what did you use as material? Nylon tie strap material seems about the right thickness but I'm sort of concerned with the heat.
Also, if I want to change the voltage do I just remove that screw in the bakelite block and move it to the hole that more closely corresponds with my wall voltage?
The screw is currently in the 100-120 hole but my wall voltage is in the 120-125 range. I thought it might quiet the motor down.
Thanks in advance.
Dave
Also, if I want to change the voltage do I just remove that screw in the bakelite block and move it to the hole that more closely corresponds with my wall voltage?
The screw is currently in the 100-120 hole but my wall voltage is in the 120-125 range. I thought it might quiet the motor down.
Thanks in advance.
Dave
Thanks for the quick response. I hear what you are saying but IF I wanted to experiment, is that the right process? Just moving the screw?
Also any thoughts on snugging up the coils in the housing? I'm thinking some teflon insulation off of some Mil-spec wire would fit nicely into those corners and prevent any rattle of the coils.
Yes, that's the right process, just make sure the power is disconnected.
I would probably use thin plastic stock to shim, that said I have never needed to do it. Make sure you use something with a relatively high melting point.
I am not sure how much benefit you will derive from the shimming.
User510 may have some useful insights.
I would probably use thin plastic stock to shim, that said I have never needed to do it. Make sure you use something with a relatively high melting point.
I am not sure how much benefit you will derive from the shimming.
User510 may have some useful insights.
It's a good question. If too tight it can be worse. If the coil iron to other parts cardboard was often used when other brands. Not too tight so the cardboard can work as damping. On Garrard 301's it's more easily messed up by not looking to see if the gaps are parallel. TD124 is a bit more binary and is obvious when wrong, Being out of square is a problem.
In the past I have tried this but the difference in vibration was very small , more important to overhaul the motor incl new bearings and centering the rotor .To show the difference between a before and after revision I made a vibration measurement with a B@k vibration meter . Here you can see all the vibrations frequencies .
I use a teflon washer only under the idlerwheel no problem to send you one.The others can simply be reused.
In the US Mcmaster Carr is the goto site for mechanical bits and pieces, have a look here:=
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr