Restoring and Improving A Thorens TD-124 MKII - Page 7 - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Source & Line > Analogue Source

Analogue Source Turntables, Tonearms, Cartridges, Phono Stages, Tuners, Tape Recorders, etc.

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 21st October 2010, 09:51 PM   #61
kevinkr is offline kevinkr  United States
diyAudio Moderator
 
kevinkr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Boston, Massachusetts
Blog Entries: 6
Quote:
Originally Posted by limono View Post
Kevin are you talking about main (platter bearing) or motor shaft bearing? I was talking about a play in main bearing . Maybe I just used too little oil. ?
Indeed I am talking about the main bearing. The procedure for re-oiling the old motor bearings is identical to what you need to do in order to use the new bearings.

I think it is possible that you do not have enough oil or the right viscosity oil in the main bearing. I found mine needed to be filled about 1/4 of the way full with 20 SAE oil (the aforementioned 3 in 1 motor oil) for everything to be just right. Mine has very low hours and the bearings are basically as new, hopefully yours is fairly close.

I'd try the oil in the main bearing first and see what that gets you. Some people brag about the platter coasting for several minutes, IMHO with this viscosity of oil and good bearings I'd be happy with 30 seconds or so..

Waiting on an arm board, and hope to have time to play with it some more.

Computer issues are still killing me.. Still living day to day with the ancient Compaq EVO N610C and linux - I love it, but it was not intended for this use. Building new computers is no longer the fun it once was, particularly when they don't work as well as anticipated.
__________________
"Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence." - Carl Sagan
  Reply With Quote
Old 22nd October 2010, 04:22 AM   #62
limono is offline limono  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
I sorted it out .The screws securing main bearing and spindle were little loose . After I tightened them up there is no play whatsoever ,platter spins smooth 90 sec to full stop from 33.3 speed.( I've got SAE 20 from ACO hardware) .I'm still wraping my head around the sound of this table with Grace 707 and Music maker cart. I like it quite a bit but MM is unusual cart with distinct sound and Grace 707 is a dated arm. I read some critical opinions about the sound of idlers being dictated by motor and there is some merit to it but at the same time it can be so relaxing.I guess Grace will go on waiting in line AR AX deck and I will have to go broke looking for serious arm for Thorens. All in all I'm glad that you've started this thread.Thanks!!!
  Reply With Quote
Old 22nd October 2010, 06:28 PM   #63
kevinkr is offline kevinkr  United States
diyAudio Moderator
 
kevinkr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Boston, Massachusetts
Blog Entries: 6
This is very encouraging, I think you will probably find there are arms that are a better match.. There seems to be a lot of collective wisdom on the subject. I believe my current arm choice is regarded as just 'ok' - but should give me some sense of what is possible.
__________________
"Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence." - Carl Sagan
  Reply With Quote
Old 23rd October 2010, 02:05 AM   #64
GTHICM is offline GTHICM  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Dallas, Texas
Send a message via AIM to GTHICM Send a message via Skype™ to GTHICM
Default Tonearms for TD124

So what do you think are good tonearms matched to the TD124?
  Reply With Quote
Old 23rd October 2010, 10:56 PM   #65
kevinkr is offline kevinkr  United States
diyAudio Moderator
 
kevinkr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Boston, Massachusetts
Blog Entries: 6
Quote:
Originally Posted by GTHICM View Post
So what do you think are good tonearms matched to the TD124?
Too much on my plate right now to give this particular issue any real thought. Soundfountain, Stereophile, Oswald's Mill and other places have written extensively on this particular subject, and as the budget won't stretch much at this point I'll live and be happy with the arm I've got...

My uneducated choice most would probably be a 12" Sheu or a Shroeder..

OT: This is the very first post from my newly functional AMD Phenom II quad core based linux desktop. Everything is working as it should - finally. Nothing that lots of scratch couldn't fix.. Life is finally returning to normal...
__________________
"Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence." - Carl Sagan

Last edited by kevinkr; 23rd October 2010 at 10:59 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 25th October 2010, 04:06 AM   #66
kevinkr is offline kevinkr  United States
diyAudio Moderator
 
kevinkr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Boston, Massachusetts
Blog Entries: 6
A couple of quick thoughts..

I noticed the other day that the main bearing is weeping lubricant, so this might be an excuse to get a bearing plate upgrade kit as I have to address this leak anyway..

I also determined that the surface finish of the intermediate pulley seems to be responsible for all of the noise I am hearing from that locale. I suspect some mild polishing will make a huge difference. So far attempting to further clean the surface seems to have made it worse if anything, it is really ticking now..

Listening to some music on the SME 20 tonight, wondering how the TD-124 will differ from it..
__________________
"Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence." - Carl Sagan
  Reply With Quote
Old 28th October 2010, 01:02 AM   #67
kevinkr is offline kevinkr  United States
diyAudio Moderator
 
kevinkr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Boston, Massachusetts
Blog Entries: 6
I spent about 10 minutes buffing the belt running area of the intermediate pulley and have to say I was delighted with the major improvement in noise levels - it's much quieter and feels much smoother, visually there is almost no discernible difference. I suspect a little talc on the belt will quiet things down further, but the improvement is large enough I can probably live with it as is.. The rhythmic ticking is completely gone and what is left is largely belt noise.

Something important to note is that the eddy current brake is significantly different in the MKII version.. The shaft is captive to the pulley in the MKII whereas there is a bearing in the intermediate pulley in the MKI.

Significant differences I have identified so far between the MKI and MKII:
  • 15W version of E50 motor
  • Revised eddy current brake
  • Double grommet motor suspension
  • US MKII models have the voltage change-over assembly covered by a removable bakelite plate, change-over screw is flush requiring screw driver to change.
  • Aluminum/zinc alloy platter apparently fitted as standard on high serial # units for North America.

The higher power motor apparently makes a significant difference as mine comes up to speed very quickly - in less than one revolution at 33rpm.

I plan to add a bearing upgrade kit shortly, and I will flush the bearing oil and replace when I do this.

I basically should be trying to get this into some sort of plinth very shortly as it basically ready to play records.
__________________
"Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence." - Carl Sagan

Last edited by kevinkr; 28th October 2010 at 01:06 AM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 30th October 2010, 01:09 AM   #68
kevinkr is offline kevinkr  United States
diyAudio Moderator
 
kevinkr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Boston, Massachusetts
Blog Entries: 6
Default Some more pictures..

Here are the latest pictures of the TT, basically it is just about ready for a preliminary run in a loaner plinth.

The new arm board is Brazilian Cherry and I think looks pretty nice. I will be borrowing an SME hole cutting jig in order to locate and cut the hole for the arm bedplate.

Several people suggested stretching the belt on a coffee can, but the Thorens belt circumference (length) is considerably greater than that of the coffee can so no stretching action possible. I am running in the TT at 78 rpm and as the belt stretches with use it should in theory get a bit quieter. (I'm still having noise problems with the intermediate pulley, which seems to be caused as much as anything by excessive belt tension.)

I've flushed the main bearing and refilled it to the top of the lower oilite bearing, it takes about 10 minutes for the spindle to settle all the way to the bottom of the bearing housing, but this forces oil all the way up to the upper bearing which should not be run dry.

The next upgrade will probably be a gunmetal bearing end cap to be ordered shortly..

Lots of time now due to my contract gig ending today..
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 00002R.jpg (361.9 KB, 684 views)
File Type: jpg 00004R.jpg (640.2 KB, 676 views)
File Type: jpg 00003CR.jpg (405.4 KB, 650 views)
__________________
"Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence." - Carl Sagan

Last edited by kevinkr; 30th October 2010 at 01:14 AM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 30th October 2010, 09:40 PM   #69
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: NYC
Do you have any suggestions about removing the motor pulley? I have loosened the two set screw on the shaft but the pulley is still firmly on the shaft.

Kal
  Reply With Quote
Old 1st November 2010, 01:59 AM   #70
kevinkr is offline kevinkr  United States
diyAudio Moderator
 
kevinkr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Boston, Massachusetts
Blog Entries: 6
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kal Rubinson View Post
Do you have any suggestions about removing the motor pulley? I have loosened the two set screw on the shaft but the pulley is still firmly on the shaft.

Kal
I had the same problem, my advice is to pull fairly hard or use a wood wedge against the housing bearing in mind that you don't want to damage anything. (I used a flat blade screw driver and a small wood block and pried fairly gently.) Some force is definitely required but should be judiciously applied to avoid damage to the motor. Avoid marring the pulley or bending the motor housings.

Another possibility would be some penetrating oil left to seep between the shaft and the pulley overnight.
__________________
"Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence." - Carl Sagan

Last edited by kevinkr; 1st November 2010 at 02:02 AM.
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Need help with Phono Cartridge for Thorens TD-166-MKII sonictonicmusic Analogue Source 5 24th July 2013 09:43 PM
Thorens TD-124 newbie neil_kaye Analogue Source 6 17th March 2008 03:44 AM
Thorens TD-125 MKII Parts needlenose Analogue Source 9 12th March 2005 11:08 PM
Transformer for Thorens TD-166 MKII Peter Menting Analogue Source 5 30th August 2003 07:15 PM
Thorens TD 124 MKII question louis Analogue Source 3 2nd July 2003 04:27 AM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 03:58 AM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2